[modeleng] Re: Swaging stainless steel tube
- From: "TEL" <tel47@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 04:53:23 +1100
Nothing ventured, nothing gained John, it will either work as planned, or it
will reduce the dia and extrude the excess wall material outwards, leaving
you with the same thickness walls. Definitely worth a try tho'
> Firstly, thanks for the replies on the automatic drain cocks, especially
to
> Baggo - I'd seen those drain cocks on Helen Longish but had forgotten
about
> them. At the moment, the information is filed away for later use.
>
> This week's problem involves some stainless superheater tubes. I know you
> are supposed to TIG weld them, but I don't have the equipment (or the
> ability for that matter ;-). I'm thinking of screwing the firebox ends
into
> the return bend and using a high temp silver solder to caulk the joint, so
I
> won't be relying on the strength of the silver solder. The return bends
> probably won't see the fire directly anyway - This is on a Sweet Pea and
the
> received wisdom is to make a thick stainless "brick arch" at the front of
> the grate/ashpan assembly. The Sweet Pea has a marine firebox, by the way.
>
> Anyway, back to the point. I'm very short of space in the superheater
flues
> and it would help if I could reduce the outside diameter of the tube from
> 8mm (a tad over 5/16") to 9/32", but not lose any wall thickness at that
> point.
>
> What I've got in mind is 3 small ball races set into something that I can
> squeeze them together as the tube rotates in the lathe. This will make the
> swaged length equal to the width of the ball race, which will be plenty
for
> what I want.
>
> The tube is 316 stainless.
>
> Before I go and do it (and I'm going to anyway!) - What is the considered
> opinion of the group? Will it work?
>
> Thanks,
>
> JohnP
>
>
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