I have used brasso for cleaning plain copper clads. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brasso On Sun, Mar 9, 2014 at 1:50 PM, Sandeep Lohia <sandeeplohia12@xxxxxxxxx>wrote: > Iso-Propyl ( transparent ) those bottles available here are only > water with a bad smell ( duplicate )... > It's no Alcohol it's only & only water !!! > > Original always comes deep-yellow. > > dilute little Rosin in Iso-Propyl, if it mixes it's well & good otherwise > not. > > Nail polish remover from YL / XYL also works well. > > U can also do a little rub with very fine Glass-Paper, Emry-paper. > before applying conformal coating-rosin. ( don't use steel-wool, it > can cut hand ) > > Recently from goldsmith market, I brought pink color powder, > I don't know what chemical formula it is, it might be just powdered > glass, kids use here on thread that of kites. or could be a mixture of > little Zinc Chloride. > It is for cleaning oxidized copper/bronze statues, & working very well > with PCB. > there was also available some other color powders/gels as to clean > silver, gold but I didn't purchased that. > > It is hard to solder on oxidized copper clad/foil if not filed. even > most skilled won't be able... > sometimes it takes no longer more then a hour on cleaned copper to > gather a fine coat of green or black rust, & soldering becomes > difficult thereafter... > on those copper foil or clad ( without pre-tinned -homebrew) > > but if we can do a little conformal coating Rosin imminently after > cleaning, > solder will stick to copper like magnet. > > //www.freelists.org/post/minima/Copper-sheets,7 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > Sir Thomas, > > U can also rub clean with ink-pen rubber / eraser before Rosin-Coat, > if copper-clad already lost it's shine, & if already changed it's > color... > > --