Tom,
I'd be interested in a pair of Front Uprights, if / when you do them in the
future.
While you are on a roll, consider those cast Lower Front A Arms, that look
Very fragile.
Don
On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 2:02 PM Tom Quaranto <tquan277@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Gentlemen
Well I have decided to go ahead and proceed with casting a total of 12
pieces from the original blank I acquired. Scott’s input was taken into
account and I have decided to do away with the core for the bearing bore
area but the hollow area towards the bottom will be included. Also due to
shrinkage concerns material will be added to the original blank to
compensate. The pieces will be cast in A356 series aluminum then hardened
to T-6 so they should come out quite nice!
I will be taking the blank to the pattern maker on Tuesday. He estimates
approximately 3-4 weeks lead time then the pieces will go to the foundry.
After another 3-4 weeks I should have parts in hand.
Those who have committed to purchase sets will be notified and shipping
arraignments will be made. I’m hopeful the price will remain as quoted,
($500.00 per uprite) however both the pattern maker and foundry have given
me rough quotes based upon my initial contact. Due to input from
prospective purchasers some small changes have been made so I will post
updates and directly contact those purchasers with regard to any price
change. In any event I don’t expect any major fluctuation in the price. At
the most maybe 10%.
So if any one knows of a shop who services vintage cars or maybe arrive
and drive Bobsy owners please inform them of the impending availability of
these parts. Once I give the order to the foundry the count will be locked
in.
I plan on talking with Ron Mong next week to see if he knows of any
prospective clients or if he wants some.
Also in the future I may decide to do a run of front uprites.
FYI. I looked at the Bobsy Formula Ford today and that rear Uprite is also
a # 10. So these uprites will fit SR 3,5,6,7 cars as well as the FF
Cheers
Tom Quaranto
Chassis #18
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 29, 2018, at 12:37 PM, Don Anderson <donandersonracing@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
It seems to me that if you are going to 3D scan the part, cast the plug,
then CNC machine the hollow inside out, as well as the bearing race seats
and seal seats, why not just CNC the entire upright and shot peen it to
look cast ?? It's "one step shopping" with a perfectly reproducible part.
Don
On Thu, Nov 29, 2018 at 11:30 AM Lee Johnson <leejohnson1313@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Scott --
Interesting input, especially the "now vs. then" comparison of casting
design rationale.
Do you have a suggested source for 3D scans (if not for this, perhaps
for other projects)? What method(s) can be used at semi-amateur price
points?
Lee
On 11/29/18, scott correa <spektr98273@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Gentlemen,was
As a Manufacturing Engineer, I am of the opinion that it is foolhardy to
make cores for the major bores on the casting. These parts will be post
processed on a CNC mill. The original reason to cast the bores near net
to minimise expensive machine time and setup on manual machines wherelabor
costs were high. Today it would be more cost effective to dispence withas
the bore cores and just machine tbe bore as an interpolated plunge cut.
Easy Peasy in the current cnc world. Additionally, you would not be
subject to core shift with the resultant problems with non-predictable
remaining wall thicknesses. The quick and dirty way to get these made
castings would be to plug all the holes in tbe casting with Play Dough,3d
scan them, add a material offset and supply this shape to tbe castingarm
house... Also round up to tbe next higher 1/4 inch to keep dimensioning
simple and have the casting be +.125/ -000.
On Nov 29, 2018 9:31 AM, "Tom Quaranto" <tquan277@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Lee
Yes that area is hollow to the bore area for the lower thru shaft to A
attachment.bottom
I was thinking of having extra material added the hollow area at the
of the pattern to prevent the hollow area being open to the shaft area.If
you have ever had to remove the shaft it’s difficult due crap/moisturebore
getting into the shaft as it is open after drilling. (At least on mine
currently in use on my cars)
Part of the cost is due to having to have molds made for the bearing
area and the hollow space you are speaking about. I thought due to thea
material strength difference the slight loss in thickness would not be a
concern.
Your thoughts are appreciated as we are at the right point to make any
changes/improvements.
Tom
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 29, 2018, at 10:10 AM, Lee Johnson <leejohnson1313@xxxxxxxxx>wrote:
Tom --
I am also likely to want a pair of raw castings. Will PM you for some
off-line discussion.
Following are comments to keep "Bobsy-talkers" apprised of other
upright technical matters:
1) I just finished a phone call with Ron Mong who said the original
casting patterns are long gone, so no glory there!
2) Your original thought that the extra material is to allow for
machining tolerances is most likely correct. The patterns used to make
the molds casting would be even a bit bigger than the finished raw
casting you have in hand. Shrinkage allowance for the TBD magnesium
alloy used back-in-the-day might have been different than what is used
for Al castings.
3) My recollection is that the lower part of the casting (where the
oval thru holes are) is hollow (beyond the outline of the oval holes).
It shouldn't be to hard to create an approximate core to recreate that
hollow space. Do you know if the foundry would plan to do so?
My thanks also for doing this legwork!
Lee
On 11/29/18, Tom Quaranto <tquan277@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Gents
I thought a pic of the original Unmachined Bobsy uprite to be used as
atfile. Ifmaster for the proposed casting might be helpful. The #10 makes
identification easy.
I have more pics but the freelist site limits the size of the email
also check the regular Bobsy website from time-to-time atyou want more pics email me directly with your need at:=========Thanks for being a subscriber to Bobsy Talk email. Be sure to
Tquan277@xxxxxxxxx
Tom
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