Culinary Institute of America's newest cookbook a global soup tour. By Dianna MarderPhiladelphia Inquirer. From the Aztecs comes a chicken soup with poblano chiles and chayote squash, and from the Caribbean, callaloo. And from Paraguay, there's bori-bori. The book cover may say soup, but inside, the Culinary Institute of America's "New Book of Soups" (Lebhar-Friedman Books, 250 pp., $35) says so much more. It says that in this land of immigrants, many Americans have a taste for the foods of cultures beyond their own. What we think of as traditional American favorites are still included in this revised edition: minestrone, mushroom barley, chili, cream of tomato and classic lentil soup. But instead of putting all the international soups in a separate chapter, the book is divided into sections on hearty soups, stews, pureed soups, bisques and chowders, and so on, with world flavors included in each. There's a recipe for mulligatawny, which reflects the British colonization of India; a Tunisian chickpea soup called leblebi; and a Moroccan vegetable stew that is a meal in itself. Jambalaya, etouffee, lamb korma, Catalan beef stew - you can spend the rest of winter roaming the culinary globe. You'll find avgolemono, the traditional Greek egg and lemon soup that is so surprisingly simple and appealing, it has become my new go-to soup. At the other end of the convenience-and-capability spectrum is feijoada, a stew rich in ham hocks and chorizo that takes three days to prepare. Alongside directions for making pistou and popovers are recipes for such accompaniments as harissa, a spicy hot Tunisian condiment, and fried shallots, a quick, crispy garnish for hearty soups. Fried shallots are, essentially, a more elegant, homemade version of those fried onion rings in a can. They taste great on soto ayam, an Indonesian chicken noodle soup with cellophane noodles and lemongrass. And what would a book from the CIA be if not instructive? So, for example, a recipe for waterzooi, a Belgian cream of chicken soup, includes instructions for a thickening "liaison," a mixture of egg yolks and cream added to hot liquid. It's not a complicated step, but one that makes the difference between a good home cook and a great one. And once you master it, you can also use it to make billi bi, a French cream of mussel soup. Julia Child would be proud. . ---------------- "If you go without playing the trumpet for one day, no one knows, two days, only you know, and more than three days without practicing, girl you better look out, because everyone will know!" ---------------- Chela Robles E-Mail: cdrobles693@xxxxxxxxx MSNWindowsLive Messenger: cdrobles693@xxxxxxxxxxx Skype: jazzytrumpet