[amayausers.com] Re: static electricity?
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- Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 22:39:58 UT
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This is from the Tajima group but it applies here..
STITCHING LEATHER
Stitching an embroidery design on leather certainly can offer an embroiderer
some
challenges but in reality, it really is not that difficult. As in any
embroidery work,
having a good understanding of embroidery basics goes a long way in creating a
quality stitchout.
When stitching on leather, the goal will be to 1) punch as few holes as possible
2) make these holes as small as possible and 3) space the holes as far apart as
you can.
Needle punctures in leather that are too close together, will create a series
of perforations
resulting in a stitchout which can literally be lifted off the leather ....
leaving a large hole where the design once was.
Often, the largest variable in stitching leather will be the leather itself.
The type, quality and thickness will dictate
your specific stitching requirements but in general when working with leather,
consider these points:
[ Use a quality design digitized or edited specifically for leather. A poor
design can cause havoc with the
leather and add excessive demands on the embroidery machine.
[ If a design was not digitized specifically for leather, reduce the stitch
density as much as possible. Amount
of reduction will vary with the density of the original design but generally 10
- 30 % will be the target.
[ Remove or lengthen short stitches. In most cases, stitch length should be 3mm
or a bit longer. If it becomes
necessary to use s slightly shorter stitches, do not concentrate many of these
shorter stitches in one area.
[ A target minimum stitch length of 4 mm for fill stitches is desirable.
Depending on the design, size of needle
and the leather itself, slightly shorter fill stitch lengths may work [3mm
should be an absolute minimum]
[ Delete or minimize underlay stitching. With most leather, little or no
underlay stitches are required.
Remember, when stitching leather the goal is to produce as few holes as
possible.
[ Ideally, column [satin] stitches should be at least 4mm in width. This along
with reduced stitch density will
insure that the leather is not perforated to the point that the design can be
torn from the material.
[ Size and type of needle used will vary depending on the leather but always
use the smallest needle
possible [e.g. on soft light leather, a regular 70/10 sharp works well, use
larger needles only when needed].
[ Slow the machines stitching speed down. Friction is created between the
needle and leather during the
stitching process and lowering the machine speed will help reduce this friction.
[ Applying a drop of thread lubricant like Sew-Smooth, Sewer?s Aid, etc. to the
needle[s] will also help
reduce friction when stitching leather.
[ When hooping, do not attempt to ?stretch? the leather. It should be
reasonably taunt and smooth in the
hoop but never stretched.
[ With regular hoops avoid having them too tight, wrap the inner hoop with
strips of stabilizer or athletic tape,
hoop leather just before you are ready to stitch and remove hoops immediately
after stitching.
[ To reduce hoop marks, try using something other than traditional hoops.
Systems like fast frames,
clamping frames, etc can be an effective alternative.
[ Leather in itself is very stable so often the use of a stabilizer is not a
necessity. However, when stitching
leather most embroiderer?s will use a tear-away [if for no other reason than
piece of mind].
[ Test stitch your design on scraps of similar material before attempting the
real thing. Thrift stores or
upholstery shops are often a good place to pick up leather.
[ PRAY ..... a lot. Not because leather is difficult to stitch on but because
mistakes often mean that the
damage is permanent and the item is ruined.
Use the above information as a guide only. Depending on the leather itself, the
item being stitched, the machine
used, the embroiderer?s experience or personal preference, complexities of the
design, etc. .... variations of the
above tips may become necessary.
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