Debbie, Two ways to determine what "Material Thickness" to use for those folks without experience. First, Always start out high. With a thick jacket like that I start with a number like 15 or 20. (Somebody correct me if I'm way off base-I've never sewn a Carhart jacket before so I'm guessing). After you hit the start button, if your material thickness is too high, then you will very shortly receive a false "bobbin break" error. What that means is it's telling you your bobbin has broken but in all actuality, it's fine. Lower your material thickness by two digits and start again. Do this until you get to a point at which the machine sews without any interruptions. Second, Once you get your machine sewing, study how the thread "dances" just in front of the AMAYA name plate on the needle case. If the thread is bouncing all over the place, chances are your material thickness is too high. If the thread looks like it's a straight line as it's sewing, it probably too low. I can't stress enough that it's always better to run your Material Thickness setting on the higher side as opposed to a lower number. Try to run your material thickness at the highest possible setting for each fabric without experiencing any "looping" of thread on the top side of the garment. There are a lot of customers that don't know very much about this Material Thickness setting and they leave it on the default setting of "3" for just about everything they sew. Sure that will work fine for most thin items but at some point, they will start to have problems and not know why. Good luck to you. Ed -----Original Message----- From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of r.rinehartsr Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 3:50 PM To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [amayausers] Re: Auto digitizing Hi, If I may, I have a totally unrelated question regarding a project I will be undertaking tonight. I have 3 Carhart jackets on which I need to embroider a farm logo and farm name. They all have heavy fleece linings and I am concerned about what MT I should use. I figured a sharp 80/12 needle would be necessary but was not sure on the backing. It will have to be either a 2oz cutaway or a much lighter no show mesh. Also I didn't plan on using a topping, but if anyone thinks this would help, I can reconsider. Thanks for all the help. Debbie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Banks" <banksje@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 2:38 PM Subject: [amayausers] Re: Auto digitizing > Jo, > > What format are you saving it as from Paint? Use JPG or BMP. Then go to > File Open in Design Shop, and change the File Type to All Graphics, then > navigate to the folder where you saved the graphic file and open it. > > Let me know if this does not work. Also, what version of Design Shop do > you have? You have to have at least Design Shop Pro to open a bitmapped > graphic. With Pro+ you will also have vector file capabilities. > > Jeff Banks > Melco Embroidery > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jo Leftwich" <leftwichjo@xxxxxxxxx> > To: "Amaya" <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 5:46 AM > Subject: [amayausers] Auto digitizing > > >> Please tell me what to do to get a design from Paint to Design Shop. I >> have a business card I scanned, enlarged to the size I need, cleaned it >> up in the Paint program, and cannot get it into Design Shop. I thought >> this would be a great design for auto-digitizing but have never tried >> this before. What am I not doing?? >> Jo >> >> >> Jo >> Just Sew It Custom Embroidery >> >> --------------------------------- >> Yahoo! Shopping >> Find Great Deals on Holiday Gifts at Yahoo! Shopping > >