[amayausers] Re: Raised Needle Plate with Fast Frames???
- From: "Ed Orantes" <e3m@xxxxxxx>
- To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 08:50:06 -0600
LuAnn,
Switching to a raised needle plate when using Fast Frames.... Nope!
Every hoop other than the cap frames are supposed to glide or slide right on
top of the bobbin arm the entire time the machine is sewing. If one were to
use the raised needle plate while using any of these hoops, the top of the
needle plate would be pushing up on the fabric inside the hoop
unnecessarily. Not to mention the wasting of time changing needle plates.
What direction are you getting flagging in as you use the Fast Frames?
I'm guessing you mean up and down. Kind of like the hoop is bouncing on the
needleplate as she sews?? If this is the case, take one of your fast
frames, and mount it into the hoop arms. Get on one knee and look under the
hoop at the point where it comes into contact with the very top of the
bobbin arm. The Fast Frame hoop should be resting on the bobbin arm. If
it's not, then get another hoop - like one of your tubular round hoops and
do the same. Is the underside of that hoop resting on the bobbin arm?
If it is NOT resting on the bobbin arm, just like the Fast Frames hoop,
then chances are that one or both of your hoop arms have gotten bent in an
upwards direction probably due to the operator lifting a little too much on
the clips every time a hoop is being removed from the machine. Simple fix.
Just push down on the appropriate arm(s) until you bend them back to a
position that is parallel to the floor. Or at least until the hoop is
touching the top of the bobbin arm. A little push goes a long way so don't
over do it or you wind up having to bend them back up again.
If the tubular hoop IS touching the bobbin arm and the Fast Frames hoop
IS NOT, then chances are your Fast Frames window or chassis/bracket or both
have been bent up somewhere along the way. There again. Gently bend it
back to a point at which the underside of the hoop is parallel with the
floor.
Now if you are getting flagging in any other direction, we may have a
horse of a different color to deal with entirely.
Hope I'm in the right area.
Ed Orantes
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of image embriodery
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 8:16 AM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Best speed for WACF
Good morning Ed,
I think you have me mistaken for someone else. I always use sharps when
sewing caps.
I do have another question though. When using FastFrames are you switching
the needleplate? I get a lot of flagging when I use FastFrames. Is this a
common issue?
Thank you in advance for your time.
LuAnn @ Image Embroidery
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Orantes
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 4:36 AM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Best speed for WACF
LuAnn,
I'm sure you meant to say it was a "sharp needle" used when sewing
hats. Cap material is usually woven tight or you have the structured caps
that are laced with Buckram in the front panels. Very tricky to bust thru
that material with a ball point. If you are sure of what was said/heard,
you might want to double check with those specific techs in Denver.
Good luck,
Ed Orantes
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Cheryl Rotter
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 3:03 PM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Best speed for WACF
LuAnn,
For hats I can run certain designs on my one year old AMAYA at 950.
The newer ones can run at over 1000, I am getting 4 of those delivered next
week.
For me, it just depends on the design and the hat style. And the hat
design will run better if it has been edited from a flat to a specific hat
design. Melco techs in Denver also told me to use a ball point needle on my
hats.
Cheryl Rotter
Team Sports Ink
5111 Grumann Dr. Ste #1B
Carson City, NV 89706
775-884-3550
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of image embriodery
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 12:14 PM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Best speed for WACF
Good afternoon all,
I have a question. I have always slowed my machine down to do caps.
If I run the same design for flats and caps I generally reduce the
speed by 200.
Am I being too conservative? It should would be nice to run these caps
faster. I'm at 800 right now.
Thanks...
LuAnn @ Image Embroidery
Because Your "Image" Matters
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