LiVawne, Experience certainly helps and knowing how to edit a design and/or lettering properly is usually a must. What you are describing is exactly why when I digitize for someone, I specifically ask what types of fabrics they intend to be using the design on. That way I can test the design on the same or very similar material so I can customize the design for their needs. As a digitizer, I also want as much information as I can get out of the client. What machine are they using, Amaya vs. older Melco machines vs. Tagima vs. Barudan etc..also what type thread, poly vs. rayon vs. brand etc and what speeds they intend to run the design at. Sometimes and especially with the Amaya, because of the software options that are available to customize to your own sewing needs, I will ask for their experience level with the machine and software. Many times I have needed to explain how to use some of the software options to achieve the best results and will include these as notes along with the digitizing. The problem as I see it with pique knit is that there are so many types. Heavy vs. lite vs. stitch pattern vs. grain etc.... I think finding a rule of thumb for all the different types of pique material or knit in general is kind of like searching for that pot of gold at the end of a rainbow. The only way to be really sure is to test and adjust before you sew the real thing. Rod Springer Melco Trained Technician/Owner (Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing) Boise, ID (208) 938-3038 springer37@xxxxxxxxxxxx ----- Original Message ----- From: "Moore Embroidery and Designs" <moore-embroidery@xxxxxxxxxx> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 4:57 AM Subject: [amayausers] Re: Labels > PUll Compensation is driving us crazy. The design look great, sew it on > denim, still beautiful. But, then I put it on Pique Knit and the borders > are all off. I use pull compensation, sometimes it is too much, sometimes > too little. > If there some type of rule or book or anything that will give me some > guidelines on this awful thing called "Pull Compensation"? I hope it is not > just live and learn. > > > Sincerely, > LiVawne G Moore > > Moore Embroidery & Designs > 1724 Jerusalem Drive > Round Rock, TX 78664 > 512-989-0518 Office > 512-632-7826 Cell > Moore-Embroidery@xxxxxxxxxx > www.Moore-Embroidery.com > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of E. Orantes > Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 11:22 PM > To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [amayausers] Re: Labels > > > Andie, > I know this because I had the same troubles last year and found a fix for > it. The reason for your circles (satin stitches only) stitching out and > looking more like ovals is because of that crazy little phenomenon know as > "pull". However you won't find the embroiderer's definition in Webster's > dictionary but every digitizer worth his or her weight knows about it. > What is "Pull"? Every time a stitch is made, the take up lever "snaps up" > in the final part of the stitch cycle and makes the thread in that stitch > "taut". If there's too much thread left over, there's "looping". If > there's not enough thread to make an adequate stitch, the thread "Pulls" on > the garment between the needle penetrations in that stitch. > Simply put, for appropriate embroidery, thread tensions (Material Thickness > for the Amaya) must be set correctly. Too often, folks tend to set their > thread tension knobs too tight or run just about every fabric on the default > Material Thickness of "3". Some designs may not demonstrate their "Pull" > because the entire design has been "pulled" proportionately. Others will > definitely show by distorted portions of the design or by what is called > "Puckering". Puckering can also be caused by too many stitches in a design. > Because some fabrics will intrinsically "pull" because of their > instability, the Design Shop program (and many others) has a feature to help > compensate for this "pull". It's called "Pull Compensation". Depending on > the percentage setting you choose, it adds a little width to satin stitches > with regard to the stitch direction. This is for those satin stitches that > tend to come out looking slightly skinnier than you thought they were > supposed to. > But in your case, it's a circle. You could increase the "Pull > Compensation" feature on the circles or if you're digitizing the circles > yourself, the wireframe should look more like an oval on the screen with the > longer width of the oval being parallel to the stitch direction. Hence, so > that when the thread "pulls" on the fabric, your digitized ovals will in > fact look more like circles after they've been stitched. > Ahh the fun of embroidery. I didn't mean to ramble on but I hope this > helps. > Take care, > Ed Orantes > Amaya Owner & Technician > New Orleans, La. > 504-258-6260 > emservice@xxxxxxx > > > -----Original Message----- > From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On > Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 4:18 PM > To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [amayausers] Digitizing Circles > > > I did not get a lot of responses. I previously said a circle that is .20 by > .20. That's pretty small. Let's say, a half inch by a half inch. Any > suggestions. Thanks. > > Andie > Baum's Sporting Goods > > > >