[amayausers] Re: Backing Suppliers & Hooping

  • From: "E. Orantes" <e3m@xxxxxxx>
  • To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 15:12:34 -0500

John,
        Start out with two(2) 1.5 oz sheets of backing.  Sometimes it's better 
to
use two sheets of 1.5 as opposed to one(1) sheet of 3.0.  On small
lettering, you may need to increase the density of the lettering, if
possible, because too many stitches in the same place will also render
thread breaks.  I only use solvy when necessary because of the cost and
hassle.  I am a big fan of underlay - center, edge and zig zag stitches not
only secure the backing to the fabric but also create a foundation for the
final stitches.  However edge walk stitches don't always come out well on
small lettering.  Some people choose to use "saran wrap", or the like, on
large areas to stitch where there wouldn't be a lot of picking after the
fact.

 Ed Orantes
 Amaya Technician/Owner
 New Orleans, La.
 cell: 504-258-6260
 office: 504-EMBROIDery
 emservice@xxxxxxx



-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of John Yaglenski
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 1:41 PM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Backing Suppliers & Hooping


Ed:

All good advice... Thank you for taking time to type it out.

So, on pique... Between 6 and 7 oz weight, you use cutaway, but how thick?
1.5?  2.0?  3.0?

Someone told me using 3.0 (or 2 - 1.5 oz sheets) with solvy works well on
pique, especially if you have small lettering involved.  I did try it and it
seemed to produce better results.  On the material thickness, I like you
have found setting it higher rather than lower has produced the best
quality.

I'm going to forward this on to my wife!

Thanks for you help-

JOHN

: -----Original Message-----
: From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
: [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of E. Orantes
: Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 1:50 PM
: To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
: Subject: [amayausers] Re: Backing Suppliers & Hooping
:
: John,
:       Between Tear-Away and Cut-Away...
: It was once told to me,..  if it touches the skin, use
: cut-away (it's softer, especially after washing) otherwise,
: use tear-away (hats, bags,...) Use your best judgment knowing
: that tear-away is easier but cut-away is stronger.
:
: I think the wife uses "threadetc.com" when purchasing such
: supplies.  The quality is good and prices are about average.
: I wouldn't want this to be an area where I'd skimp on cost as
: backing can be very important to the final product depending
: on (and not limited to) the garment, design, and the machine
: your stitching on.
:
: Now, More Importantly...
:       Keep in mind that the Amaya, with it's "tensionless
: thread feed system", significantly reduces the amount of
: backing needed.  Remember that backing is a fabric
: stabilizer.  Stabilizing is necessary because of all the
: tension put on the thread from the tension knobs (and bobbin
: case) on the machine - especially if the knobs are set way
: too tight (very common).  In this area, more is definitely
: not better.  Too much thread tension, if the thread doesn't
: break, will be cause for "puckering" and possibly bobbin
: showing on the topside of garment.
:
: Imagine for a moment that you are hand embroidering a simple
: design on a Kleenex tissue.  You've got your needle and
: thread and after every stitch, how tight are you going to
: pull on that thread before you start to make that next
: stitch?  Only tight enough to take out the slack and so that
: the thread lays smoothly on the tissue (garment).  If you
: don't pull all the slack out between stitches, you would have
: "looping".  If you pull excessively on the thread (too much
: tension), one or more of three things could happen: you'll
: either squeeze the fluff out of the delicate tissue
: (puckering), tear the tissue, or the thread will break.
:
: With that said, fabric that is very flimsy or stretchy, or if
: held up to the light and the light can be seen through the
: garment, will probably always need to have some form of
: stability (backing).  Otherwise, the Amaya, if the material
: thickness is set correctly (oh so very important), will
: present the necessary amount of thread between each stitch so
: that the thread lays smooth on the garment with the only
: tension being in the bobbin area simply there to regulate any
: inconsistencies with the thread or design.  Please consider this:
:
: Material Thickness set:
: Too low...
:       -thread breaks and possibly pull outs
:       -puckering
:       -premature wear/cutting of thread feed wheels
:       -bobbin showing on top side of garment
:       -needle breaks
: Too high...
:       -looping - most probably "false thread breaks" before
: looping begins to show
:       -thread breaks - or maybe we should call these "thread
: cuts" because the
: thread is cut by              the rotary hook (rotates around
: the bobbin)
: If you ask me, it's better to start with a higher material
: thickness and work your way down.  The "HELP" button in the
: material thickness window is a good guide of where to start.
: When I do a test sew out on one piece of cut-away backing, I
: prefer a material thickness of 4 or 5 as opposed to the
: default setting of 3.
:
: KEEP IN MIND that although you can run a lot of garments
: successfully on a lower material thickness setting (say 2 or
: 3), you may be sacrificing your thread feed rollers and not
: even know it.  If the garment calls for more thread than what
: is being delivered, and the thread doesn't break, then the
: necessary thread will simply be "pulled" through the
: rubber/plastic wheels and a "flossing effect" will take place
: cutting tiny grooves in the rubber wheel.  Over a period of
: time the wheels won't function as they were designed to and
: you'll wonder "what's wrong with my machine"?
:
: This can also be the case if you like to run the machine with
: the bobbin too tight.  If the bobbin's too tight, it will
: pull more thread to the underside of the garment.  And bobbin
: tension can increase over time due to lint and wax build up
: in the tension spring.  Be sure to clean your bobbin case
: well and perform the "yo-yo" test with every new bobbin
: spool.  DO NOT scratch the bobbin case (say with a tiny screw
: driver)as it is supposed to be highly polished and smooth.
: Some people use the corner of a business card and others like
: edge of a small piece of paper folded in half to "dig out"
: debris from the tension spring.
:
: I'll get off the soap box now but good luck to you John.
:
: Ed Orantes
: Amaya Technician/Owner
: New Orleans, La.
: cell: 504-258-6260
: shop: 504-EMBROIDery
: emservice@xxxxxxx
:
:
:
: -----Original Message-----
: From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
: [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of John Yaglenski
: Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2004 10:43 PM
: To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
: Subject: [amayausers] Backing Suppliers & Hooping
:
:
: It's time to restock the ship with backing and I'd thought
: I'd post before I order.
:
: We do a lot of polos and tshirts.  The more I have gotten
: into the business, the more I look at the way others do
: things.  I have noticed on Pique and T-shirts most everything
: is double backed.  We even embroidered some names on
: sweatshirts today that had been done by someone else and even
: they were double backed.
:
: So, my questions...
:
: When do you double back things (if you do) and what kind and
: weight backing do you use?  Tear Away, Cut Away?
:
: Who is the best Supplier for backing.  We need some Cut Away,
: Solvy and Sticky Backing for the fast frames we got with the
: amaya?  Who has the best product (most important) at the most
: reasonable prices?
:
: On the Hooping front... My wife and I just cant get used to
: the round hoops.
: Seems we are always getting sew outs slightly slanted.  Our
: brother machine had square hoops which were easy to line up
: on polos.  Is there some trick someone has, or will a hooping
: device solve the issue?
:
: Thanks as always for the great advice.  I am learning a ton.
:
: - - - - - - - -
: John Yaglenski
: Levelbest Embroidery
:
: I: www.levelbestembroidery.com
: P: 240.422.1321
: F: 781.998.6473
:
: This e-mail message and any attachments are confidential and
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: please notify Levelbest, immediately -- by replying to this
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:
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