[amayausers] Re: Backing Suppliers & Hooping

  • From: "John Yaglenski" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 14:40:55 -0400

Ed:

All good advice... Thank you for taking time to type it out.  

So, on pique... Between 6 and 7 oz weight, you use cutaway, but how thick?
1.5?  2.0?  3.0?

Someone told me using 3.0 (or 2 - 1.5 oz sheets) with solvy works well on
pique, especially if you have small lettering involved.  I did try it and it
seemed to produce better results.  On the material thickness, I like you
have found setting it higher rather than lower has produced the best
quality.

I'm going to forward this on to my wife!

Thanks for you help-

JOHN 

: -----Original Message-----
: From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx 
: [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of E. Orantes
: Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 1:50 PM
: To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
: Subject: [amayausers] Re: Backing Suppliers & Hooping
: 
: John,
:       Between Tear-Away and Cut-Away...
: It was once told to me,..  if it touches the skin, use 
: cut-away (it's softer, especially after washing) otherwise, 
: use tear-away (hats, bags,...) Use your best judgment knowing 
: that tear-away is easier but cut-away is stronger.
: 
: I think the wife uses "threadetc.com" when purchasing such 
: supplies.  The quality is good and prices are about average.  
: I wouldn't want this to be an area where I'd skimp on cost as 
: backing can be very important to the final product depending 
: on (and not limited to) the garment, design, and the machine 
: your stitching on.
: 
: Now, More Importantly...
:       Keep in mind that the Amaya, with it's "tensionless 
: thread feed system", significantly reduces the amount of 
: backing needed.  Remember that backing is a fabric 
: stabilizer.  Stabilizing is necessary because of all the 
: tension put on the thread from the tension knobs (and bobbin 
: case) on the machine - especially if the knobs are set way 
: too tight (very common).  In this area, more is definitely 
: not better.  Too much thread tension, if the thread doesn't 
: break, will be cause for "puckering" and possibly bobbin 
: showing on the topside of garment.
: 
: Imagine for a moment that you are hand embroidering a simple 
: design on a Kleenex tissue.  You've got your needle and 
: thread and after every stitch, how tight are you going to 
: pull on that thread before you start to make that next 
: stitch?  Only tight enough to take out the slack and so that 
: the thread lays smoothly on the tissue (garment).  If you 
: don't pull all the slack out between stitches, you would have 
: "looping".  If you pull excessively on the thread (too much 
: tension), one or more of three things could happen: you'll 
: either squeeze the fluff out of the delicate tissue 
: (puckering), tear the tissue, or the thread will break.
: 
: With that said, fabric that is very flimsy or stretchy, or if 
: held up to the light and the light can be seen through the 
: garment, will probably always need to have some form of 
: stability (backing).  Otherwise, the Amaya, if the material 
: thickness is set correctly (oh so very important), will 
: present the necessary amount of thread between each stitch so 
: that the thread lays smooth on the garment with the only 
: tension being in the bobbin area simply there to regulate any 
: inconsistencies with the thread or design.  Please consider this:
: 
: Material Thickness set:
: Too low...
:       -thread breaks and possibly pull outs
:       -puckering
:       -premature wear/cutting of thread feed wheels
:       -bobbin showing on top side of garment
:       -needle breaks
: Too high...
:       -looping - most probably "false thread breaks" before 
: looping begins to show
:       -thread breaks - or maybe we should call these "thread 
: cuts" because the
: thread is cut by              the rotary hook (rotates around 
: the bobbin)
: If you ask me, it's better to start with a higher material 
: thickness and work your way down.  The "HELP" button in the 
: material thickness window is a good guide of where to start.
: When I do a test sew out on one piece of cut-away backing, I 
: prefer a material thickness of 4 or 5 as opposed to the 
: default setting of 3.
: 
: KEEP IN MIND that although you can run a lot of garments 
: successfully on a lower material thickness setting (say 2 or 
: 3), you may be sacrificing your thread feed rollers and not 
: even know it.  If the garment calls for more thread than what 
: is being delivered, and the thread doesn't break, then the 
: necessary thread will simply be "pulled" through the 
: rubber/plastic wheels and a "flossing effect" will take place 
: cutting tiny grooves in the rubber wheel.  Over a period of 
: time the wheels won't function as they were designed to and 
: you'll wonder "what's wrong with my machine"?
: 
: This can also be the case if you like to run the machine with 
: the bobbin too tight.  If the bobbin's too tight, it will 
: pull more thread to the underside of the garment.  And bobbin 
: tension can increase over time due to lint and wax build up 
: in the tension spring.  Be sure to clean your bobbin case 
: well and perform the "yo-yo" test with every new bobbin 
: spool.  DO NOT scratch the bobbin case (say with a tiny screw 
: driver)as it is supposed to be highly polished and smooth.  
: Some people use the corner of a business card and others like 
: edge of a small piece of paper folded in half to "dig out"
: debris from the tension spring.
: 
: I'll get off the soap box now but good luck to you John.
: 
: Ed Orantes
: Amaya Technician/Owner
: New Orleans, La.
: cell: 504-258-6260
: shop: 504-EMBROIDery
: emservice@xxxxxxx
: 
: 
: 
: -----Original Message-----
: From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
: [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of John Yaglenski
: Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2004 10:43 PM
: To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
: Subject: [amayausers] Backing Suppliers & Hooping
: 
: 
: It's time to restock the ship with backing and I'd thought 
: I'd post before I order.
: 
: We do a lot of polos and tshirts.  The more I have gotten 
: into the business, the more I look at the way others do 
: things.  I have noticed on Pique and T-shirts most everything 
: is double backed.  We even embroidered some names on 
: sweatshirts today that had been done by someone else and even 
: they were double backed.
: 
: So, my questions...
: 
: When do you double back things (if you do) and what kind and 
: weight backing do you use?  Tear Away, Cut Away?
: 
: Who is the best Supplier for backing.  We need some Cut Away, 
: Solvy and Sticky Backing for the fast frames we got with the 
: amaya?  Who has the best product (most important) at the most 
: reasonable prices?
: 
: On the Hooping front... My wife and I just cant get used to 
: the round hoops.
: Seems we are always getting sew outs slightly slanted.  Our 
: brother machine had square hoops which were easy to line up 
: on polos.  Is there some trick someone has, or will a hooping 
: device solve the issue?
: 
: Thanks as always for the great advice.  I am learning a ton.
: 
: - - - - - - - -
: John Yaglenski
: Levelbest Embroidery
: 
: I: www.levelbestembroidery.com
: P: 240.422.1321
: F: 781.998.6473
: 
: This e-mail message and any attachments are confidential and 
: may be privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, 
: please notify Levelbest, immediately -- by replying to this 
: message or by sending an e-mail to john@xxxxxxxxxxxxx -- and 
: destroy all copies of this message and any attachments.  Thank you.
: 
: 
: 
: 
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