Thanks for all the detailed info which is really helpful. It's interesting and valuable to know that it can be removed, as it looks a bit unprofessional if a client were to see this effect/defect. Since it has no effect on printing it's not a major worry for me BUT it is annoying to follow procedures and still get a bugaboo. It's only visible after drying so hopefully, if need be, I can follow your ammonium thiosulfate procedure for removing the "fog" once dry. Can I use Kodak Rapid Fix with hardner (Solution "B"), and add citric and metabisulfite to that? Do you have a quantity of citric and metabilsulfite that you'd recommend? When you say bleach, I assume you mean potassium ferricyanide which I'd be loathe to bring near a client's originals. =) Even though I'd be treating the base side of the film, I could see it easily creeping 'round to the the emulsion side! Would be just my luck. Re: the low acidity of stop bath hypothesis; I had wondered about that as well after reading as using a water stop bath is touted in many instances. At the first sign of this problem, it made some sense as my original stop bath was more diluted than recommended, yet the defect appeared anyway after boosting the stop bath to recommended levels. For the sake of simplicity, at separate mix of D-76 for Ilford films here would make the most sense for me and/or using some other one shot developer. My guess had been (only by deduction) that the replenished D-76 was the culprit, but I had hoped it might have been something else, thus allowing me to continue use of the replenished D-76 bath for all films. Re:fixer, 1/2 gallon of Rapid Fix has a 30 roll capacity here and I always overfill the Jobo tanks so I don't have to dump and re-fill the tank halfway through fixing. I also do this with the developers as the Jobo can produce "road ruts" in recommended use. I've found that by increasing the volume from the recommended 900-1000 mls for 5 singly loaded reels in a 1500 series tank, to 1600-1700 mls combined with intermittent lifting and using the lowest rotation speed helps prevent that. Thanks again Ryuji & Richard for your help! Eric --- Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Changed the subject. > > From: Eric Nelson <emanmb@xxxxxxxxx> > Subject: [pure-silver] Re-using D-76 w/Ilford Films > Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 22:40:18 -0800 (PST) > > > With Ilford 120 films I have been getting, what > was > > once diagnosed over the phone, dichroic fog, using > > this replenished D-76. > > No Kodak films are affected and I've made a new > batch > > with the same result. > > I've also tried UN-replenished D-76 with no > problems > > straight or 1:1. The unreplenished is used only > once. > > What you described sounds like dichroic fog. It > often appears when the > developer contains silver complex ions that can be > reduced by the > developing agent at or near the interface between > the coated gelatin layer > and the bulk solution. Its appearance is rather > unpredictable but what > you described makes perfect sense to me. > > Replenished (reused) developer contains silver > complexed by sulfite, > while fresh developer does not, at least until the > developer is poured > into the loaded tank. Some films are more > susceptible to dichroic fog > than others. There are MANY factors that affect > this. > > > It has no effect in printing and to > > my knowledge, cannot be removed. > > You can remove it in acidic ammonium thiosulfate > fixer with very low > pH. It's easy to make one by mixing ammonium > thiosulfate, sodium > metabisulfite and citric acid. It may take many > minutes to lighten and > disappear. Very weak bleach may also be used. Either > case, test the > bleach with an unimportant specimen from the same > film/developer > combination. > > > From what I was able to read about dichroic fog, > it is > > the result of low acidity of the stop bath but > mine is > > made according to directions. > > Unless one is doing something stupid, those are just > harmless (and > useless) suggestions. The rationale behind that > suggestion is that, if > a film developed in powerful developer (like D-19) > is transferred to a > nearly exhausted fixing bath without a complete > stop, dichroic fog > will occur. The reason for this is because developer > is still active > in the fixer, where lots of silver ion is available > to form dichroic > fog. As long as the developer is well removed from > the emulsion, plain > water rinse is completely capable of preventing this > mechanism. However, based on what you described, > your dichroic fog is > formed in the developer stage and the chocie of stop > bath is irrelevant. > > > Anyone care to hazard a guess as to what is going > on > > and if Ilford films "don't like" replenished D-76? > > I won't list but there are many factors affecting > whether dichroic fog > will appear or not. > > My guess in this particular case is the difference > in the > gelatin-polymer blend used for the emulsion and > overcoat. > > Perhaps the easiest way to reduce the risk of > dichroic fog like yours > is to dilute the developer. However, diluted > developer suffers from > poorer keeping property and is not suitable for > replenished system. > > The next easiest way is to change the developer > formulation. You can > reduce the amount of sulfite, but for the above > reason, this is not > a very good idea to go very far on this road. There > are dozens of > compounds that are known to prevent dichroic fog. > Henn and Haist are > two experts in this area. Many organic antifoggants > tend to reduce or > eliminate this type of fog, but the amount > sufficient for this role is > probably undesirable in film developers. > > One compound known to be effective are > resorcinol-like 1,3-dihydroxy > carbocyclic compounds (Kitze and Rosecrants, US > Patent 3380828). > > Another well known compound is > 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (Henn, USP > 3161513). Bill Troop argues that this is the > antistaining agent used > in Microdol-X, but he has no hard evidence for this. > > Another interesting example is poly(N-vinyl) > compounds such as > poly(vinylpyrrolidone). (Henn, King and Surash, USP > 3552969) This is > the HC-110 patent. PVP is a highly water-soluble > solid, but it makes a > wide range of useful copolymers and I think some of > them are > incorporated in the binder system of modern > emulsions. It has > excellent adhesion and coating properties, although > the polymer is > water sensitive. But this last problem is something > polymer engineers > can solve by playing with copolymerinzation, > blending, etc. PVP is > also used to clarify beer and white wines (to remove > excessive tannin, > etc.) > > Silver stain similar to dichroic fog is a common > problem in roller > transport processors. Obviously, Ilford had a > problem with it, and > they got US Patent 5770351 (Long and Parker). > Examples of this patent > used two common antifoggants > 1-phenyl-5-mercaptotetrazole and > benzotriazole, which were largely effective in > inhibiting stain (they > call physical development in this patent) but PMT in > particular didn't > allow the print to be fixed completely. I have no > experience with > compounds in Formulae II and III of this patent. > > Similar problems occur in monobath developers, > because monobath > contains a lot of strong silver halide solvents, > such as thiocyanate > and thiosulfate. Haist published a number of > compounds for this > application, and if I remember correctly, compounds > where thiol group > and carboxylic group are attached to the same carbon > are most > effective. Examples are mercaptoisobutylic acid and > mercaptoacetic > acid. Both are nasty compounds. > > > Of these compounds, certainly the easiest to obtain > and safest to > human health and environment is PVP. Resorcinol is > easy to obtain but > it is said to be not as effective as its alkylated > or halogenated > derivatives. It may be that dissolving some PVP in > the developer may > solve the problem... > ============================================================================================================= > To unsubscribe from this list, go to > www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the > same e-mail address and password you set-up when you > subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.