[pure-silver] Re: blotter books

  • From: "Dave Valvo" <dvalvo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 16:34:49 -0400

Caution about the material used. It must be lint free or you will bake lint right into the gel. (assuming emulsion not against drum) Try getting that out. (But it is a way to get a unique look) And it must absorb water. Preferably not synthetic for obvious reasons.

.

Dave


----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph W. Lambrecht" <info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "PureSilverNew" <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 11:07 AM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: blotter books


Mark

I suggested it, but keep in mind, it was just a thought. I have never tried
or tested it. It is probably important what type of fabric to be used, and
what cleaning solution to use. However, it should give extra protection by
making it easier to clean the cloth in direct contact with the print.





Regards



Ralph W. Lambrecht

http://www.darkroomagic.com







On 2006-04-18 14:56, "Sauerwald Mark" <mark_sauerwald@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I use my drum dryer only for fibre based prints, which
I dry with the emulsion against the fabric.  I run the
dryer at a relatively low temp (3 on the scale which
goes to 10), and at low speed - it takes a little over
5 mins for the print to make its way around the drum.
I get dry, flat prints in relatively little time.

I do like the idea that someone had of using a
separate piece of fabric between the apron and the
print, and washing that periodically - gives me an
extra layer of protection from contamination, and
taking the apron off is a real PITA.


--- Dave Valvo <dvalvo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


Message below is not clear.  I hope someone doesn't
try to dry RC papers on
a drum drier.  That is an easy way to destroy a
drier.  Only FB papers
should be dried either emulsion against the drum for
high gloss or emulsion
against the canvas for a mat look.

Dave


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph W. Lambrecht" <info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "PureSilverNew" <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 7:09 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: blotter books


Edward

I wasn't talking about gloss or surface texture. I
was referring to print
tones. I wasn't able to measure any difference in
relation to drying 
method.
But of course you're right that gloss affects
Dmax. Unfortunately, I
couldn't measure an increase in Dmax either.
Again' I only tested a few
papers (Ilford and Agfa), and they were all pearl
RC or glossy FB. 





Regards



Ralph W. Lambrecht

http://www.darkroomagic.com







On 2006-04-17 19:50, "Edward C. Zimmermann"
<edz@xxxxxxx> wrote:

Quoting "Ralph W. Lambrecht"
<info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>:

It is sometimes mentioned that the drying
temperature makes a difference 
in
print tones. In a test, I compared air-drying,
forced-air and IR-drying 
and
was not able to see a differences in Ilford and
Agfa papers.

I've compared various Ilford and Agfa papers and
have seen a significant
difference between air/forced-air and IR drying.
With my Ilfospeed glossy 
the
difference is between a kind of "greasy" almost
shine to a very good 
gloss.
With Agfa Brovira Speed the difference was a bit
less significant but 
still
substantial. Even the blacks seem blacker.

I've compared Pearl, Velvet and other non-glossy
variations from several 
vendors
and there I could not tell much difference but
given the significant 
speed and
convienience of using my IR dryer I don't, unless
its too wide to fit, 
ever
air dry.

I've tried to see if the temperature setting of
my IR dryer had any 
effect on
gloss. It did not. It effected if the paper was
dried when it came out or
sticky or (other extreme) curly (one can over
cook).


Without IR drying I did not care for glossy resin
papers. That most of my 
rc
papers are glossy, I think, is proof that my
opinion of those papers has
changed... (with Baryta papers, by contrast, I
don't ever ferrotype 
anymore)






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