[pure-silver] Re: Matrix Metering and Calibrating
- From: DarkroomMagic <info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: PureSilverNew <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 23:57:16 +0200
What I offered to Justin was a calibration for a 'normal' scene of about 7
zones. When he is done with that, he can make the calibration to cover 5,6,8
and 9 zones next.
Regards
Ralph W. Lambrecht
On 9/13/04 7:48 PM, "Rob Champagne" <psps@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Over developing will give excessive contrast. i.e. requires soft filter for
> printing.
> Over exposure will give generally too light throughout the scene. i.e. dense
> negatives but can be printed through(longer print time) to give reasonable
> results at normal grade.
>
> Street photography will often involve quick action on your part to capture
> something that is happening. That often means there is not time to meter for
> shadows and set aperture and shutter accordingly. Therefore, whilst zone
> system is great for some applications it is not necessarily suitable for
> street photography.
> Ralph's calibration routines are fine BUT they only take into account one
> "subject brightness range" which may or may not be correct for your typical
> subject.
>
> A typical landscape with sky and dark shadows may be need a 10 zone system but
> a typical street scene with no sky may only need a 7 zone system so some trial
> and error and/or testing for different brightness ranges will be needed by
> you and this again depends on how you want your results to look.
>
> Given that you have matrix metering I would suggest that you start by just
> bracketing( normal, -1 stop, -2 stops ) some typical scenes and then making
> an adjustment to film speed for the film you are using based on the results
> you get. i.e if you find that the -1 stop images are the best then increase
> your film speed setting by 1 stop.
> Then if those best images are not contrasty enough, give 30% extra
> development and bracket again or if too contrasty reduce dev by 30% and
> bracket again. Repeat process a second time to fine tune it.
>
> It is important to remember that no single development time is going to be
> correct for all subject brightness ranges and zone system accuracy is only
> achievable where time allows correct metering and development is altered to
> suit subject brightness range.
>
> Another method for the most consistent results across different subjects in
> street photography I would use an incident meter.
> Since most street scenes will either be lit by sky light or direct sun light
> taking a single incident reading (pointing meter at main light source) and
> manually setting that exposure and using it for all shots while the lighting
> doesn't change will also give you consistent results. Again try this approach
> and bracket and adjust dev accordingly. This method has the benefit of high
> speed in that once exposure is set you only need to take note of lighting
> changes which on a sunny or overcast day don't change much. On broken cloud
> days then lighting may change frequently.
>
> rob
>
>
> At 12/09/2004 15:27 -0400, you wrote:
>> <quote who=Rob Champagne date=[040912 14:52]/>
>>> And what is it that you don't like about the way they come out.
>>> i.e. to much contrast, too little contrast, over exposed, under exposed.
>>
>> They are overexposed for the most part. I just don't know if I am
>> overexposing in the camera or overdeveloping. I was hoping there was a method
>> in which I could take a controlled shot using controlled methods to test if
>> my
>> current setup is correct.
>>
>> Is there not a way to calibrate a system?
>>
>>> are you printing them on silver gealtin or scanning them for digital prints.
>>
>> I do silver prints and I scan for the web. I never print from the scan. I'm
>> not concerned with the scanning. I just want to make sure I am starting off
>> with the best possible negative.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> J
>>
>> --
>> Justin F. Knotzke
>> jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx
>> http://www.shampoo.ca
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