Over developing will give excessive contrast. i.e. requires soft filter for printing. Over exposure will give generally too light throughout the scene. i.e. dense negatives but can be printed through(longer print time) to give reasonable results at normal grade. Street photography will often involve quick action on your part to capture something that is happening. That often means there is not time to meter for shadows and set aperture and shutter accordingly. Therefore, whilst zone system is great for some applications it is not necessarily suitable for street photography. Ralph's calibration routines are fine BUT they only take into account one "subject brightness range" which may or may not be correct for your typical subject. A typical landscape with sky and dark shadows may be need a 10 zone system but a typical street scene with no sky may only need a 7 zone system so some trial and error and/or testing for different brightness ranges will be needed by you and this again depends on how you want your results to look. Given that you have matrix metering I would suggest that you start by just bracketing( normal, -1 stop, -2 stops ) some typical scenes and then making an adjustment to film speed for the film you are using based on the results you get. i.e if you find that the -1 stop images are the best then increase your film speed setting by 1 stop. Then if those best images are not contrasty enough, give 30% extra development and bracket again or if too contrasty reduce dev by 30% and bracket again. Repeat process a second time to fine tune it. It is important to remember that no single development time is going to be correct for all subject brightness ranges and zone system accuracy is only achievable where time allows correct metering and development is altered to suit subject brightness range. Another method for the most consistent results across different subjects in street photography I would use an incident meter. Since most street scenes will either be lit by sky light or direct sun light taking a single incident reading (pointing meter at main light source) and manually setting that exposure and using it for all shots while the lighting doesn't change will also give you consistent results. Again try this approach and bracket and adjust dev accordingly. This method has the benefit of high speed in that once exposure is set you only need to take note of lighting changes which on a sunny or overcast day don't change much. On broken cloud days then lighting may change frequently. rob At 12/09/2004 15:27 -0400, you wrote: ><quote who=Rob Champagne date=[040912 14:52]/> >> And what is it that you don't like about the way they come out. >> i.e. to much contrast, too little contrast, over exposed, under exposed. > > They are overexposed for the most part. I just don't know if I am >overexposing in the camera or overdeveloping. I was hoping there was a method >in which I could take a controlled shot using controlled methods to test if my >current setup is correct. > > Is there not a way to calibrate a system? > >> are you printing them on silver gealtin or scanning them for digital prints. > > I do silver prints and I scan for the web. I never print from the scan. I'm >not concerned with the scanning. I just want to make sure I am starting off >with the best possible negative. > > Thanks. > > J > >-- >Justin F. Knotzke >jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx >http://www.shampoo.ca >============================================================================================================= >To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your >account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) >and unsubscribe from there. ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.