[pure-silver] Re: A Bloody Shame
- From: joesuburbs@xxxxxxx
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 16:29:30 -0700
Eric:
I have had to disband my darkroom to build a rumpus room for my teenagers... I
will gladly sell/send you my premier paper safe - I think it is the same one as
the one you are talking about... three shelves... about a foot high, fifteen or
sixteen inches wide and about two feet deep?
contact me off-list to make arrangements...
--
Matthew Gaylen
aka...
--
joe suburbs the post modern hyper rural sub urban anti hero and vertiginous
surrealist
On Tuesday, September 11, 2007, at 05:02PM, "Richard Knoppow"
<dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Nicholas O. Lindan" <nolindan@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 3:46 PM
>Subject: [pure-silver] Re: A Bloody Shame
>
>
>> From: "Eric Nelson" <emanmb@xxxxxxxxx>
>>
>>> http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1285/1362411164_8e7df1d1ab_o.jpg
>>> http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1051/1362409864_59cbf016e4_o.jpg
>>
>> You are going to have to 'sister' this.
>>
>> Cut pieces of reinforcing material, 20 Ga. steel sheet if
>> you have some,
>> or fibre-glass circuit board material, 18 Ga. aluminum,
>> anything stiff and
>> strong will work, so that it covers the lower left corner
>> of the door and
>> the broken bit and extends about two inches around it over
>> the front of the door.
>>
>> If you can then an angled bit of good metal that goes
>> around the left and
>> bottom would be nice, if not then a rectangle for the
>> bottom and one for
>> the side. If you can, fit a block of wood into the
>> inside - carve out a space for the broken bit, and attach
>> the front plate
>> to the wood by drilling through from the front and bolting
>> the bits
>> together.
>>
>> Fit the bits, drill holes and use screws where possible to
>> hold things
>> together. Screw the broken-off bit to the reinforcing
>> bits it you can.
>> You can get small hi-lo screws for plastic by taking a
>> busted plastic
>> appliance apart.
>>
>> Clean off _all_ old glue. Sandpaper the surfaces to the
>> joined, but not the
>> inside of the break - make sure there is no glue on the
>> break surfaces.
>> There are two glues that will work: A long-working
>> viscous cyano-acrylate
>> may be the best and fills in small voids. Hobby/craft/toy
>> train stores carry it.
>> WWW is full of suppliers:
>> http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/rgc.htm
>> Important: You _will_ need an accelerator
>> http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/rge.htm
>> because the join won't exclude contact with air. Don't
>> bother with hardware
>> store CrazyGlue.
>>
>> _Use_ _clamps_: Sears has a nice set of squeeze clamps for
>> not
>> that much money. If you don't use clamps the whole thing
>> is going to
>> come apart again soon, so don't bother fixing it. You
>> will find it easier to glue
>> each reinforcement on separately, wait till the glue
>> holding the pervious
>> one sets. When attaching the screw together bits apply
>> glue first and then
>> scriv the thing tight. When clamped and screwed _then_
>> apply the accelerator
>> to the places where the glue is oozing - it's a catylist,
>> you only need to get
>> the hardening reaction started and it spreads on its own.
>>
>> The other thing to consider is cutting away the lower left
>> corner of the
>> door and substituting a hardwood (maple, hickory, ash,
>> _not_ poplar) glue
>> up/carving.
>>
>> It's like the dentist, the first step in fixing a hole in
>> your tooth is
>> drilling a hole in your tooth.
>>
>> --
>> Nicholas O. Lindan
>> Cleveland Engineering Design, LLC
>> Cleveland, Ohio 44121
>>
> Hobby shops and some hardware stores have small sections
>of hard brass in both flat and L shaped stock. This would
>make good re-inforcement. Model train shops also have a
>variety of small hardware and specialized cements which work
>on plastic. I think Nicholas has the right approach: don't
>depend on the glue exclusively, use re-inforcments. It may
>be worth gluing a re-inforcment strip along the other side
>at the hinge to prevent it from cracking.
> It appears from the photos that the light trap is
>underneath but in front of the cracked area so it may be
>possible to make a repair without disturbing it.
> PS: Wear blinkers in the model train shop or you will wind
>up with another expensive hobby.
>
>---
>Richard Knoppow
>Los Angeles, CA, USA
>dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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