Julie, I have the straight axle in the rear. It will drop the bus 3 1/2". So you will have to lower the front also. I used Wolfgang International kits and their dropped spindles. My engine is a 1914 with a 412 ring and pinion tranny.
I have carried 18 80lb bags of cement and my fat ass for a total of 1680 lbs in my lowered bus and climbed the long hill to my house in third gear.
I tell you all this to answer questions about torque and kit combinations and blah blah.
If I had to do it over again, I probably would because I like the look and feel of the lowered bus, but I need to make clear that it is a MAJOR PAIN IN THE ASS. You will be forever dealing with scraping your steering box and dragging your exhaust, which breaks the gasket seal and causes exhaust leaks. I would not have that problem if I pampered my bus and didn't use it every day like a real car, but I do.
You will also have to find and fit weird parts combos, like "Thing" or Type three drums and backing plates... It's a BIG undertaking. ----- Original Message ----- From: <evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 6:52 PM Subject: [tcb] Re: Looking for opinions
A straight axle change drops you 3 1/2 inches in the rear. That's basically the offset from the RGB.If you plan to use your bus as a bus and not as a cruiser I'd stick with RGBs or go to an IRS bug kit from wolfgang. The reason is that with a straight axle you go to one bearing supporting the weight instead of two, larger, bearings in the RGB setup. The Bug IRS also has two bearings per side supporting the weight.The straight axle is fine unless you're planning to load a ton of stuff in your busSent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition.Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.5/792 - Release Date: 5/6/2007 9:01 PM
