Re: [Scoaa-members] Fwd: Auto-discard notification

From: Michael Zotzky <michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>
To: scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:53:14 -0600

Thanks Stephen.  When I noticed Eduardo's query, I went back to an old
Comcast email account to find this original post.  I am not subscribed via
that account, but instead am now operating with a gmail account.  Might it
be that reason it was dropped?

On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 7:29 PM, Stephen Wendl <sww.scoaa@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

for some reason this msg was dropped

Begin forwarded message:

*From: *scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx
*Subject: **Auto-discard notification*
*Date: *February 11, 2014 at 4:27:21 PM PST
*To: *scoaa-members-owner@xxxxxxxxx

The attached message has been automatically discarded.
*From: *"Michael Zotzky" <mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx>
*Subject: **Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power*
*Date: *February 11, 2014 at 4:26:33 PM PST
*To: *<scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>
*Cc: *<michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>

Eduardo,

Here is my write-up after doing the repower on my SW1000.  I currently
have about 50 hrs on each motor since the repower.  I would say the new
motors are quieter, get better gas mileage, but do not have the torque of
the older motors.  The power is adequate though.  These motors also have
the flush fitting, which makes them very easy to flush out with fresh water
after every use.

They are considerably smaller - even though both are 9.9 hp - and take up
less room in the box.  That also makes them easier to remove using the
boom.  I did not dry dock the boat to do the motor change-out.

Michael

------------------------------
*From:* Michael Zotzky [mailto:mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx ;<mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

*Sent:* Sunday, July 08, 2012 4:02 PM
*To:* 'scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx'
*Subject:* Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power

Hello All,

Just wanted to share some info on our recent re-power of 2002 Seawind
1000, hull 123.  The original engines were 2002 year model Yamaha FT9.9D
outboards.  The port engine failed after 1,100 hours (crankshaft &
bearings), and the cost to repair the motor was estimated to be $2,600 vs
$3,000 for new motor.  We chose to replace both engines with new Yamaha
XEHA model outboards.  These are 9.9 hp, extra long shaft (25 in) engines -
as were the original motors.  However, as Joe and others have noted, the
original motors were the 323 cm3 (19.71 cu in) displacement outboard that
used the same block as the 15 hp.  The new 9.9 Yamahas share the same block
as the 8 hp models with 212 cm3.  I cannot comment on thrust generated by
new motor vs the old ones, as they've only been run a few minutes so far.
On the plus side, the new motors weigh less, are smaller, and quieter - and
may burn less fuel.

Anyway, back to the re-power.  The choice facing anyone in the US doing
this is to buy: a) model with remote shift and throttle setup, but with
power tilt and trim (and a very tall mounting bracket that requires
modification of the motor pod), or b) model with tiller and manual tilt and
trim (and shorter mounting bracket).  We opted for selection b), and
ordered the stainless parts from Seawind to convert from tiller to remote
operation.  (Current cost is $315 per motor for the Seawind parts, plus $70
shipping from Aussie land.)  The two-motor bundle of parts is shown in the
picture labeled "ONE - SEAWIND KIT".  We disconnected the shift cable in
the motor, by pulling out one very small cotter pin.  This is going to take
a long screwdriver to bend flat, and then a set of needle-nose pliers to
pull it.  Just follow the shift cable to find it.  The throttle control
actually consists of two cables that pull in either direction.  You can
loosen the cables and then the slugs on the end have to be worked thru some
slots to disconnect.  Then disconnect the wiring (unplugged the two starter
button wires, and the two kill switch wires), and completely remove the
tiller handle.  You can see in picture TWO that the only remnants of the
tiller are the two holes (top, right).  I saved the tiller assembly as when
I was selling my old working motor, there was a lot of demand from
fishermen wanting to use them for kickers, but few wanted to deal with the
remote controls.  This will allow me to convert the motors back to tiller
operation.

On the tiller side, is a soft rubber section that is about 3 inches wide
by 1-1/2 inches tall that has three holes - one for the power cable, one
for the throttle and shift cables, and a third hole for the small wires of
the kill switch and starter button.  This rubber section pops in and out
pretty easily.  We removed the new power cable, and used the hole to hookup
the old power cable to the motor.  The throttle/shift cable holes were
filled with black silicone and sealed - since you are going to be moving
these cables to the other side of the motor.  The third hole - a round one
- was used to run the electrical harness cable into the motor.  Note that
we also re-used our old 7-pin harness for this, and did not buy a new
harness.  (Re-using the harness and the power cables also avoided having to
rerun and seal these thru the bulkhead.)  Look at the rubber section, and
compare it to the cable and harness wires, and it's pretty obvious which
hole to use for the power cable (flat), and which to use for the wiring
harness (round).

Wiring was very simple as Yamaha wiring is standard color.  Merely hook up
the harness wires to the same color wires in the motor.  All of the
connections are on one side of the motor, and held in place in a bracket.
There are also a couple of connections in the front.  The male ends on the
harness plug into female wires on the motors.  Some female ends of harness
wires had male ends in the motor.  It was pretty idiot proof.  Although I
was really concerned about this beforehand, wiring turned out to be the
easiest part of the re-power.  Go ahead and wire up the harness before you
put the motor in the well.  If you look at picture one, you can see how the
power cable and wiring harness fit under a plastic fitting near the top
right, and then lead into the rubber panel on the motor.  I also zip tied
these two cables to this fitting, so they don't move.  Near the top of
picture TWO, you can also see where all of the wires come together.

Now for the Teleflex cables.  The Seawind parts include a bracket that
bolts to the bottom cowling of the motor, using existing holes.  The
throttle and shift cables are held in place with Teleflex cable clips (also
included in the Seawind kit).  It is a fairly sturdy bracket, and needs to
be as the cables put a lot of stress on it.  The bracket is well-made, with
the only disappointment being the holes pre-drilled on the bracket are not
the same spacing as the Teleflex cable clips.  So be prepared to drill new
holes - which unfortunately need to overlap the old holes - or "widen" them
however you can.  Make sure you have new bits as stainless is not easy to
drill, especially when the new hole overlaps the old.

For the attachment of the throttle cable on top, the holes were in the
right location, but just needed to be correctly spaced.  For the shift
attachment on the side, we found that drilling new holes about one-half
inch closer to the motor allowed for more thread in the plastic end piece
of the cable.  (In the original hole position, there was only about 1/4
inch of the cable rod threaded into the end fitting.)  In picture THREE,
you can see the cable attachments.  The choke and the hard rubber panel on
this side of the motor are removed.  Note that the throttle is on the
right, and the shift cable on the left.  (Ignore the second set of holes we
drilled further in from the throttle cable attachment.  I was trying to see
if moving it back a half inch - as was necessary for the shift cable - but
this moved it too far back.)

Another thing to note in picture THREE is that the Seawind bracket is
attached via the two Phillips-head screws seen below the throttle cable.
(Note that you have to buy all of these screws - they are not in the
Seawind kit.  If I had thought about it, I should have noted diameter and
length of each of the screws we used.  We ended up buying several sizes,
and cut them off with a hacksaw to get a precise length.)  I used stainless
steel washers, separated from the aluminum motor with nylon washers - to
prevent corrosion.  I layed a couple of sections of electrical tape on the
top of the bracket that comes in contact with the motor, to prevent
corrosion as well.  Nylock nuts were used on all screws.  Also, you can see
that I used black heat shrink tubing to seal the connection of the
stainless cable tube to the cable end fitting.  On my cables (old), these
tubes had separated and left wire exposed.  Hopefully this will limit the
exposure of the wire section to salt water.

The black round fitting that is about two inches to the right of the
throttle cable - with a rubber cap to the right of that - is the new Yamaha
fuel line fitting.  They are now round, and you twist on the hose.  The
short black hose on the left side of the motor is the flush hose.  I
eventually extended these up so they could be accessed easier.  (More on
that later.)  The water hose end fitting normally attaches to the motor,
but this bracket was removed as it was in the way of the new shift cable
placement.  Note that this end fitting must stay connected when the motor
is run, or else the water will go overboard and not cool the powerhead.

Unfortunately I do not have better pictures of the shift connection
installed.  You can see the fitting in the middle of the SEAWIND KIT
picture earlier.  Probably the best piece of the Seawind kit is this short
stainless steel arm that attaches to the shift axle running across the
motor.  If you look closely at picture THREE, this axle runs below the
attachment point for the throttle.  You can see the shiny stainless fitting
coming in from the left side of the motor, and held in place with a
hex-head screw.  Whereas the Yamaha kit has this shift lever made in
plastic, and turned up, the Seawind kit features it in stainless, and
turned down.  A rubber cap is removed from the side of the motor, and the
Seawind piece is slid onto the shift axle, and fastened with a bolt with
metric threads.  The bolt threads into the axle.  This is really the only
metric bolt you will need to buy (unless you live outside of the US).
Oh, and one more thing I did before sliding on the Seawind shift lever was
to put two o-rings on the piece.  There is not enough space for them to fit
between the lever and the motor, but on the outside they can act as a bit
of a guard to limit water splashing in between the shift piece and the
motor.

If you look at picture FOUR, you can see the choke installed, and the hard
rubber panel at the base of the choke pull in place as well.  This panel
needs to be drilled so that the throttle cable can fit thru it.  This takes
a lot of measurement to determine where to drill, and a 1/4 in hole.  (I
stretched tape across the opening, straightened a coat hanger, and ran it
thru the Teleflex cable bracket to the throttle end fitting to see where
the hole should be located to line up.)  The rubber drills very easily.  I
spaced up a bit size because a 1/4 inch bit yielded a hole smaller than 1/4
inch.  After you drill the hole, take a sharp knife and cut a slit from the
hole down thru the bottom of the rubber panel.  This makes it easy to put
on without having to remove the cable.  The slit closes up watertight when
the metal piece on top is bolted on.  Near the bottom of picture FOUR you
can see three holes in the bracket that were not used.  The outside empty
holes were the original ones.  The middle hole is one drilled to fit the
Teleflex clamp.  The screws shown are for the final placement of the
Teleflex clamp (which is on the other side, and cannot be seen in this
picture.)  So you might want to check your shift cable length before
drilling any new holes.

As the shift lever is not turned down, whereas the old motor lever was
turned up, the next step required is to disassembly the Teleflex
shifter/throttle control and move the shift cable to the other side of the
cam.  I removed the hose clamps in the starboard hull closet below, and
tugged on the cables to try to get some excess so that the Teleflex
assembly could be pulled up to access the cable attachments.  This is where
things got bloody as the internals of this mechanism have a host of sharp
parts.  Also be careful that you don't pull the assembly so far as to break
the soldered wire connection that tells the key switch the motor is in
neutral, and motor circuit allowed to start.  This is easy to figure out
once you see the assembly internals.  It would probably help to have
someone below helping, but not necessary (as I did mine myself).  Note that
if you don't do this step, when you move the shift forward, the motor will
go into reverse.  As I had both an old and new motor installed at the same
time.  I had to disassemble this assembly twice.  I thought about doing
both sides at the same time when doing the initial, port motor
installation, but didn't think anyone test driving the old motor would be
impressed by it running backwards!

So that finishes the heavy stuff.  Earlier I pointed out the water flush
hose.  I removed the end fitting and added a 5/16 inch barb-to-barb
connector and about two feet of Teleflex 5/16 inch fuel hose to extend the
end fitting up to a reachable level.   See picture FIVE - FLUSH HOSE.   I
also enclosed this hose in the corrugated plastic tubing that is normally
used to encase wires and prevent them from chafe.  You don't want this
piece of hose to chafe thru, as your cooling water will be dumped
overboard.  I screwed the end fitting to a small piece of high-density
plastic.  The screws come from the back of the plate, into the plastic
fitting - so you will need to countersink them.  Then I screwed the plate
to the motor box with 1/2 inch long screws.  Be careful here as the motor
box is very thin and you can easily drill thru it.  (Of course, if you
don't care about screw heads showing, you can always just drill thru the
box and screw into the plastic fitting!)  I zip-tied the tubing to the
motor bracket to keep it from chafing on the motor or the shift cable.  It
probably needs an additional clamp added to keep it from falling into the
motor well when disconnected.  Only other thing to note in this picture is
that the fuel hoses are fairly long, so we can lead them back and hook them
into a special cap on the Honda generator.  When they are hooked to the
outboard, there is a loop of fuel line velcro'd on the wall.

Ok, so you probably noticed from picture FIVE that the footprint of these
new motors is very much smaller than the older motors.  Plus Yamaha listed
the old 9.9's at 116 lbs, but I suspect that was closer to 120 lbs based on
hefting them off and on the boat a few times.  We weighed the new motor
with the tiller removed, and it came in at exactly 100 lbs.  It is
noticeably lighter to carry than the old ones.  Compare picture SIX to
SEVEN to see the difference in size.

Included in the Seawind is also a bracket to keep the motor from turning.
Both the old and new motors have the same friction lever that keeps the
motor from turning when engage, and allows it to turn when loosened.  As
this still works on both of my old motors, and I like the ability to turn
them when working on them, I did not install the Seawind brackets.  It also
appeared that the friction levers had to be disassembled on the motors to
install the Seawind brackets.  If motor turning ever becomes an issue, I
will pull the motors and install them.

To-date, I installed the port motor, but had a bit of delay on the
starboard motor installation as I left the old one in place while trying to
sell it.  (Generally people want to see them run before purchase!)  A week
ago the old motor sold, and I installed the new starboard motor as well.
Due to other commitments, I have only run each of them a few minutes,
flushed them, and left the boat.  The new motors are very much quieter, but
"wiggle" much more than the older motors.  If it was a two-stroke, I would
say this is from break-in, but not sure about four-stroke.  The previous
owner replaced the wood on the starboard motor bracket with plastic Star
Board, and as the port wood was showing some cracking, I did the same to
the port side when we had the engines off.  I also replaced all of the
board attachment screws as they had evidence of crevice corrosion, and it
was very easy to do when the motors were off.  I also put new bolts in to
screw the motors to the brackets, and note the hole placement is not the
same for the new motors - so these have to be drilled.  (One of those 12
inch long, 1/4 inch diameter bits does this easily.)  I have purchased new
hour meters and tachometers, and hope to install all of this in the next
week or two.  We are planning a long trip in early August, so would be good
to get some of the motor break-in done prior to departure.

Michael Zotzky

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References:
- [Scoaa-members] Fwd: Auto-discard notification
  - From: Stephen Wendl

Re: [Scoaa-members] Fwd: Auto-discard notification

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