Would this same technique work for soldering broken headphones to a 3.5mm plug
with bare wires at the end? I bought a replacement 3.5mm cable to fix them with
(the connector on the headphones broke so I cut it off). When you say hooks do
you mean 45-degree or 90-degree bends?
On Mon, Jun 11, 2018 at 09:04:39AM +0000, john peacocke wrote:
Hello Mr. Fox.....===========================================================
As you say, kids can do it.... and holes are burned in furniture.
The Soldering Iron has developed from charcoal stove and wedge of pure copper
on a stick . And, indeed the dear sweet fumes of LEAD are no longer to be
inhaled in public.
Temperature controlled electric irons have a tiny hot tip which melts the
soft solder metal over the connection.
If you want to have a go, try this...
Have a modern soldering iron safely and rigidly mounted so that you can bring
the work to its tip. If it is on a table, pointing upwards, you can safely
sweep for its cold handle end.
To make a wire to wire connection, take two thin single core insulated
wires as used in Schools. Strip the insulation from a short section of each
of the two ends.
Form tiny hooks on the bare wire ends.
As a formality, scrape the bare metal because grease and dirt spoils solder.
Take a piece of RESIN CORED SOLDER .
Hook the bare wires together and if possible jam them together by
twisting/squeezing.
Now find the hot iron tip and bring the solder , the iron tip, and the hook
joint together at the same time. Easier said than done.
Always exhale. The incense fumes of the RESIN FLUX are best kept out.
Immediately cool off the joint.
Trim any protrusions (toenail clippers?) and use sticky tape to insulate.
Good for battery voltages and small motors, indoors.
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkIdU0986> for Windows 10
________________________________
From: raspberry-vi-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <raspberry-vi-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
on behalf of Mike Fox <mfox32322@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2018 11:26:11 PM
To: raspberry-vi@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [raspberry-vi] Re: Looking for a good multimeter
Well if it's something you can trust kids to do, it can't be that bad. I
just wanted to know what this soldering thing is, and all of a sudden I've
got all this info about where it should be used and temperatures (which
I'll have to Google to translate to Fahrenheit) and other info. Thanks
guys! :)
On Sun, Jun 10, 2018 at 1:26 PM, Michael A Ray <dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
In my experience low temperature (bizmuth?) solder is a Mickey Mouse
solution that is unreliable. I would not let it anywhere near anything
I want to work reliably.
I have been doing hobby electronics since I was about ten years old
(forty four years ago), since long before I went blind. And nothing
other than proper solder joints are reliable.
I'd even go so far as to say lead-free solder is rubbish. It is much
more difficult to use for hobbyists than the good old lead cored stuff.
It was imposed on us by tree-huggers because 1 out of about ten million
people got a cancer in their nose after they had been soldering for 30
years. If you are that worried only use it in a well ventilated area,
but not outside, since even a slight breeze will cool the iron too much
for it to work.
Plus, proper solder requires temperatures above about 300 degrees to melt.
Non-temperature controlled irons for hobbyist and professional use are
usually around 330 degrees I think. Easily hot enough to burn the ends
of your fingers very quickly.
But there is no colder alternative if you want to build robust and
reliable electronics.
This leaves totally blind people like me with a number of alternatives...
If I want to solder a connection onto a switch, or a coaxial connector
like a PL259, I can do that with my trusty Weller gun. It has a trigger,
so it is cold from the beginning. I can aim the end of the tip with my
fingers, take my fingers away and then press the button and do the
soldering.
This is tricky because it heats up quickly but not very quickly. So I
can only do this where thermal damage is not likely, like on a PL259
with a PTFE inner. Cheaper PL259s with nylon inners and the nylon will
either go soft and the centre pin will wander about, or it will melt
altogether and the plug will become useless.
For finer work, I can sometimes use veroboard and just make each
connection to a component a lot further apart then they need to be, so
that putting the soldering iron tip in the wrong place is less likely,
as is thermal damage to the wrong joint or components.
I also use solder tag boards regularly. These are old technology but can
still be bought. Also perfboard, like veroboard with no copper. Poke
component leads through, twist them together on the underside of the
board and solder the twist. Ugly but easier for those of us who can't see.
Another method I have used is holding a 30cm length of 2mm steel shaft
between my teeth. The other end I put where the joint will be. I can
then find the shaft down near the joint with the tip of the iron and
slide it down till I find the joint.
Either way, this requires a LOT, that is a LOT, of practice, always
holding the iron the same, with the iron cold, groping around for small
things with the tip, till I am so used to the distance between my
fingers holding the iron and the tip that I know almost as instinctively
as finding the end of my nose with my index finger.
Any of these methods still make soldering complex projects very
difficult for you if you can't see. You are better off trying to
buddy-up with somebody sighted, or several people who are sighted, and
offer to trade knowledge for their sight in helping you solder. If you
can find a maker space, even better.
I have successfully traded my Linux and electronics knowledge like this
before. Even going as far as showing somebody's kids how to use a
Raspberry Pi in return for them doing some soldering for me, after I
taught them to solder as well.
On 10/06/2018 17:42, john peacocke wrote:
OUCH ! Sorry I meant degrees Centigrade. Enough to make you dropsomething but not enough to set fire to the house.
Certainly the densely crowded Pi module is no place to be soldering.and other interface cables.
However there are opportunities in outer wiring such as headset , power
any small electronics package , that sort of temperature usually signifies
You are not at all likely to find to touch temperatures above 100 C in
a fault somewhere.
actual connections to the silicon inside the component, hence the need
In published data, junction temperatures are quoted. These refer to the
for heat sinks and good ventilation when things are working hard.
power jack socket to be un-sweated from its motherboard , without frying
The use of bismuth based solders allows , let`s say , a damaged
adjacent components.
in. This restores the original mechanical strength of the connector.
The exposed area has to be wiped clean before he new item is soldered
Windows 10
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkIdU0986> for
freelists.org> on behalf of Jeffery Mewtamer <mewtamer@xxxxxxxxx>
________________________________
From: raspberry-vi-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <raspberry-vi-bounce@
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2018 1:53:08 PMPi Foundation.
To: raspberry-vi@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [raspberry-vi] Re: Looking for a good multimeter
Did you mean to say 140 degrees F? Because setting aside the common
error of mixing degrees with Kelvins, I'd think ~200 degrees F below
zero would cause nasty freezer burns and wouldn't be likely to
solidify at room temperature, and I know 140 degrees C would cause
nasty normal burns. Granted, even 140 F is hot enough to burn skin,
but it's probably close to the lowest melting point that doesn't run
the risk of normal opperating temperatures melting the joints.
Anyways, soldering is actually pretty advanced as far as custom
electronics work is concerned, and everything I've read recommends
against trying to solder anything to a board as densely populated as
the Pi due to the risk of misplaced solder shorting out the board at
best or causing a fire at worst. I haven't even dipped my toes in the
shallow end, but the general recommendation seems to be to start with
components that have GPIO plugs or to use a breadboard(essentially a
huge grid ofconnection holes) connected to the Pi's GPIO header by a
ribbon cable for modeling and testing custom circuits.
--
Sincerely,
Jeffery Wright
Bachelor of Computer Science
President Emeritus, Nu Nu Chapter, Phi Theta Kappa.
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Pi Foundation.
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Mike Ray, list creator, January 2013
--
Michael A. Ray
Analyst/Programmer
Witley, Surrey, South-east UK
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when
there is nothing left to take away." -- A. de Saint-Exupery
https://cromarty.github.io/
http://eyesfreelinux.ninja/
http://www.raspberryvi.org/
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Administrative contact: <mike.ray@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
-----------------------------------------------------------
Raspberry Pi and the Raspberry Pi logo are trademarks of the Raspberry Pi
Foundation.
This list is not affiliated to the Raspberry Pi Foundation and the views
and attitudes expressed by the subscribers to this list do not reflect
those of the Foundation.
Mike Ray, list creator, January 2013
===========================================================
The raspberry-vi mailing list
Archives: //www.freelists.org/archives/raspberry-vi
Administrative contact: <mike.ray@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
-----------------------------------------------------------
Raspberry Pi and the Raspberry Pi logo are trademarks of the Raspberry Pi
Foundation.
This list is not affiliated to the Raspberry Pi Foundation and the views and
attitudes expressed by the subscribers to this list do not reflect those of
the Foundation.
Mike Ray, list creator, January 2013
===========================================================
The raspberry-vi mailing list
Archives: //www.freelists.org/archives/raspberry-vi
Administrative contact: <mike.ray@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
-----------------------------------------------------------
Raspberry Pi and the Raspberry Pi logo are trademarks of the Raspberry Pi
Foundation.
This list is not affiliated to the Raspberry Pi Foundation and the views and
attitudes expressed by the subscribers to this list do not reflect those of
the Foundation.
Mike Ray, list creator, January 2013
