25hz wrote:
Just thought I would let you know, that adding +/- 10 degrees to the swing arms has very little impact on the seat height and self-centering effect in the simulation. Angles approaching 45 degrees that are more of a concern. So what you propose should be fine.Now, I'll just clamp the python front end to the frame jig, and make the backbone meet it at what ever angle seems convenient - likely around the 65 degree range (it has rod end pivots so angle adjustment is simple). I'll bring down the ground clearance to 3", so CoG is now at 15". I plan to run the seat at 30º so that's another 1.5" CoG drop. Due to the frame design of the tadpole, I can lower the seat height by another 1" by adjusting the seat mount method, so that leaves the CoG at about 11.5". By adjusting the swingarms up 10 degrees it gets me a little over 2" lift at the swingarm pivot so the CoG is marginally lower than the pivot at this point and that isn't adding suspension sag. I can minimize that by tightening the adjuster ring on the shock though. If it all goes pear shaped on me, I can still reset everything back to the Jetrike defaults though as there are multiple holes in the tie rod brackets. As I get a little time to finalize the designs in 3DS, I'll post them for critique. :) I did manage to get the three pivot tubes made along with 6 Delrin bushings and machined some threaded adapters to weld into the end of 1.25" x .049" box tube that will take a 1/2" bolt. I also have some made up for 1" x .063" box so I might try that first for the other arms of the rocker and if they fail, I just make a new one with 1.25" arms instead.
I started working on mine last weekend, but it took a whole day to cut down the 40 x 40 box and re-weld it into a 40 x 10 profile -- very hard to keep it straight even with plenty of tack welds and butt welding on alternating sides. So I only got the BB Mount and half of the drive train done so far, but I should get a lot more done next weekend. It is very exciting seeing it come together.
The 1.6 mm rods are much harder form me to weld than the 3.2's I normally use. They flex very easily and quiver about so its harder to weld a nice straight bead. Even on my welders lowest setting, if they stick, they glow red in seconds and burn off the flux coating. But after a bit of practice I have mostly got the hang of them.
I am working on a proper web site for my domain, so I will post some pictures and a blog when I get it done, plenty to do...
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