Surplus could have been either an Anniversary or Pacemaker.
The camera was designated a PH-104, E was an Anniversary with a
Kodak lens and H was a Pacemaker with a Kodak lens, another
letter for an Anniversary with an Ilex lens. I don't know if
there were others with Wollensak or Zeiss lenses. WW-2 vintage
were olive drab. There was also a Combat Graphic without bellows.
From patent data F&S had a couple of previous bellowless models
for aerial and sports photography. I think they must be very rare
now.
A mil surplus Anniversary would be identical to what I have
other than the finish.
I guess this is sort of on topic for pure-silver but only
sort of.
On 4/27/2020 3:05 PM, Tox wrote:
Sorry - fuzzy memory is that what I did may have been a milsurp, not
anniversary.
Also don't know just how much a half turn would affect things - most
you would be off is a 1/4 turn, net.
I imagine that Kroil is an excellent choice.
Good luck!
Scott
On Mon, Apr 27, 2020 at 2:29 PM `Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
If you worked on an Anniversary SG do you know how to wind
the roller spring other than just turning the entire "snail"
mechanism? The mil handbook talks about a winding tool but I am
not sure if they are discussing the Anniversary or Pacemaker
shutter, the two are quite different. The roller spring can be
wound in full turns by rotating the tension adjuster but I think
mine needs perhaps half a turn to get it right. I have looked on
both the inside of the case, that is with the back off, and at
the tension plate without seeing how to do this. Since it is
pretty close now I don't want to mess it up. I can correct any
errors in the chart by calibrating with the Calumet tester. I
measure about the center of the film aperture, as you know the
effective speed of the shutter varies from top to bottom as it
accelerates. I think this is what the flywheel regulator in the
Pacemaker is meant to alleviate. I have a couple of barrel mount
lenses that go on the camera so I have more than academic
interest in calibrating the shutter.
FWIW I use Kano Microil, a fine instrument oil.
On 4/26/2020 10:02 PM, Tox wrote:
What I found when I did mine 20 years ago was that I had to make sure--
the washer like shims on the ends of the rolls were free and smooth (
mine had welded to the ends of the rollers by old lube and dirt), and
then hit them with sewing-machine oil. Once I did that, getting the
curtain tension roughly right for a 1/60, and taking a pic of my tv
snow with some type55 and counting scan lines made up for lack of a
proper shutter tester. Called it good at +/-5%.
The way the spring works, if you can nail one speed, the rest should
map pretty close to the spec curve.
Good luck!
Scott
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
WB6KBL
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