[pure-silver] Re: Old Linhof flash

  • From: `Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 20:54:03 -0800

   I am not sure how much information there is on the web about flash lamps. The data on large lamps below is from an early edition of "The Photo Lab Index". I think this one is c.mid 1940s.
   Flash lamps were made in at least three classes based on the delay of the lamp reaching full intensity when set off:
Class M or medium, 20 milliseconds, covers most small and medium sized lamps with shredded or crumpled foil in them. Class S, or slow lamps, about 50 milliseconds, meant to be used open flash. These are very large lamps also filled with foil. Class F, or fast lamps, about 5 milliseconds. These are gas filled and are meant to be used on box cameras  without any sort of synchronizer. They will also work on shutters synched for strobe provided the shutter speed is fairly long. The flash duration is short so there is some motion stopping ability. These are all miniature lamps. There is also a Class FP or Focal Plane lamp. These have a long, drawn out flash for use with focal plane shutters within certain limits. On Speed Graphics they will work on the 4x5 when its set at maximum speed where the travel time of the shutter is shortest. On 35mm cameras they will usually work at all speeds. They can of course, be used with standard shutters but much of the light will be lost if the shutter is not running slowly. There were also various miniature lamps to fit special holders but the four above were the ones that were common. Flash lamps were always rather expensive and a bit of a bother. One had to carry them around and have some means of disposing of them although news photographers often just dropped them (crunch). Also a bag full will set each other off. In fact a trick that works on some bulbs is to stuff a second bulb in a reflector so its pressing against the regular one. The second one will go off with maybe half the normal output. Later bulbs were designed not to do this as a safety factor. Radio transmitters could also set bulbs off but, again, the same safety treatment tended to prevent this. Bulbs make a frying sound when they off. This is from the safety coating on the lamp, intended to prevent them from shattering. They also have a very distinctive odor, also from the lacquer. Batteries need to be fresh or the bulb might not go off or flash with reduced power. BC flash guns were intended to prevent this.
   Where the camera had a magnetic solenoid tripper and synchronizer on it the demand might be enough to lower the voltage available from the batteries to the point where the shutter might not trip or the lamp not flash or both. Kodak and Compur shutters and others where the force needed to trip the shutter was increased for its maximum speed often had this problem. One advantage of Wollensak shutters is that the triping force is the same at all speeds so they are more reliable with magnetic synchronizers.
   My recent experience with modern alkaline batteries on magnetic trippers is that they seem to have more oomph than the old zinc-carbon type. I can get the shutters (Kodak) to trip reliably at 1/400 second although I have not tried it with a bulb.
   Bulbs do age so really old ones may not be reliable. Higher tripping voltage probably compensates for this but I don't know for certain.
   The foil is mostly aluminum and magnesium. One company called it "magnalium". Lamps with crumpled foil are probably old enough to keep as collector's items.
   Wabash, which later became Sylvania, had an indicator that was blue but turned pink if the lamp was gassy. "Blue Dots Mean Sure Shots). I don't know what this substance was or what gas was in the lamps.
   BTW, arrays of large flash lamps were often used for lightening effects in the movies.
   It seems my fate to collect knowledge about things that are obsolete.

--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
WB6KBL

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