February 2, 2007, from Lloyd Erlick, Bergger materials have not satisfied me. I tried their super-expensive all-rag base material a long time ago, and found the whites took up selenium toner. Politely called staining, I believe. There was also one sheet with a surface defect (each sheet cost me thirteen dollars, at the time, in a pack of ten 16x20s, so defects were not an option). They refunded my money, of course, but I haven't tried again. Maybe it's time I did. regards, --le ________________________________ Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto. website: www.heylloyd.com telephone: 416-686-0326 email: portrait@xxxxxxxxxxxx ________________________________ -- At 08:23 PM 1/31/2007 , Tim wrote: >Lloyd, > The Agfa paper did tone brown, but it was darker than I wanted, but >toned much more than I expected for not being a warm tone paper. As >far as the Bergger went, the brown was what I expected, but not the >whites. I tried to find an example of what is in my head, but to no >avail. I imagine I just need some more practice and tweaking my >process. My negatives were pretty dense, which may have contributed >which may be one of the reasons my whites were not what I expected. > > >Tim Eitniear >Chicago, Il > > > >On Jan 30, 2007, at 8:49 AM, Lloyd Erlick wrote: > >> January 30, 2007, from Lloyd Erlick, >> >> This is fascinating. >> >> Since the Agfa material is no longer made, I guess it's moot, but >> did the >> Agfa paper tone to the chocolate brown you wanted? >> >> Also, regarding the Bergger results, were the whites too white for >> your >> taste? You say they were not very creamy... (I'm asking because, >> strangely >> enough, I like warm-tone blacks and grays, but I like the whites to >> sparkle >> whitely. I find Ilford Warmtone FB paper pretty good in this >> regard; the >> whites are quite white, but less so than the base of their RC glossy >> material.) >> >> regards, >> --le >> ________________________________ >> Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto. >> website: www.heylloyd.com >> telephone: 416-686-0326 >> email: portrait@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> ________________________________ >> -- >> >> >> >> >> >> At 06:00 AM 1/30/2007 , Tim wrote: >>> I was able to do some testing over the weekend using the Agfa 110 >>> recipe. I could not get the potassium sulfite / Carbonate...... that >>> will be for a future test. I tried two different papers using a 2x2 >>> neg enlarged to 8x10. >>> >>> The first paper I used was Agfa MCC-111 glossy. I exposed the print >>> for 50.8 sec at f8 and toned for 30 min in Selenium for 30 min and >>> obtained a Dark brown color shift. >>> >>> The second paper I used was Bergger Warmtone Paper (cream based). >>> This was the first time I had ever used this paper and learned >>> quickly that my safe light was not so safe for this paper. This >>> paper is also very slow. The same neg took 90 seconds exposure at f4 >>> to produce the same results as the Agfa paper. When toned in >>> selenium for 30 min, I was able to obtain the chocolate brown I was >>> after, but the whites were not very creamy. More work to be done >>> there. >>> >>> I also noticed that the developer was very temperature sensitive, >>> which sent me down the wrong path. I could not understand why the >>> longer I was exposing the paper, why I was not getting better print. >>> I measured the developer and the temperature had fallen to ~ 60F. >>> After warming up the developer, things returned back to normal. >>> >>> Tim >>> >>> >>> Tim Eitniear >>> Chicago, Il >>> >>> >>> >>> On Jan 26, 2007, at 2:34 PM, Tim Eitniear wrote: >>> >>>> Cor, >>>> To your point, I did some research on the chemical conversions >>>> I found >>>> the following two posts. In fact Lloyd's name was associated >>>> with the >>>> posts. >>>> >>>> >>>> I made the remark; it originally came from The Darkroom Cookbook, >>>> concerning >>>> potassium carbonate, and I extended it to sulfite. The latter is >>>> available >>>> from Photographer's Formulary at $16/lb. It doesn't specify the >>>> hydration >>>> status; the ratio of K2SO3 to Na2SO3 is 158/126, or about 1.25. I >>>> believe >>>> that the ratio of the carbonates is one of the hundreds or so >>>> errors still >>>> in the darkroom cookbook (the "corrected" edition); K2CO3/ >>>> Na2CO3.H2O is >>>> 138/124, so DIVIDE, not multiply, the amount of sodium carbonate by >>>> 0.9 to >>>> substitute the potassium version. >>>> I recently did a series of tests on Agfa MCC using warm and cold >>>> developers, >>>> substituting only the carbonate, not the sulfite; and potassium >>>> makes a >>>> final print that is noticeably warmer, especially after sepia >>>> toning. I >>>> plan to mix the developer with both potassium salts next time I use >>>> a warm >>>> developer; I guess I or someone ought to compare potassium carbonate >>>> developers with each sulfite salt to see how big the difference is. >>>> Note that with cold papers, the differences resulting from these >>>> kind of >>>> changes is tiny, and often imperceptible. >>>> I don't know how difficult K2SO3 is to keep in dry form; the jar is >>>> still >>>> sitting on my shelf. I don't see why it would be any harder to >>>> keep than >>>> the sodium version, which is ubiquitous. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> You should be able to substitute potassium carbonate for sodium >>>> carbonate >>>> without concern, however, keep it tightly capped and dry, since it >> >>>> absorbs water from the air. The molecular weights are: >>>> potassium carbonate K2CO3 138.2 >>>> sodium carbonate Na2CO3 106 >>>> sodium carbonate monohydrate Na2CO3*H2O 124 >>>> If potassium carbonate is used rather than anhydrous sodium >>>> carbonate, >>>> the factor is 138.2/106 = 1.3X (1.30 g potassium carbonate used for >>>> each >>>> gram of anhydrous sodium carbonate required). >>>> If potassium carbonate is used rather than sodium carbonate >>>> monohydrate, >>>> the factor is 138.2/124 = 1.11X (not 0.9X). >>>> If sodium carbonates are substituted for potassium carbonate, the >>>> factors >>>> are the inverses of those given above (anhydrous, 0.77X; >>>> monohydrate, >>>> 0.9X). >>>> Both sodium and potassium carbonates give nearly the same pH, and >>>> the >>>> differences in development should not be evident if the correct >>>> amount is >>>> substituted. Using much less carbonate than specified may warm >>>> image >>>> tone, but generally, developers don't affect tone very much compared >>>> to other factors (paper, toners, etc.). >>>> Benzotriazole might cool the image tone; usually, bromide (or >>>> developer >>>> reuse) lends a warm or greenish cast, but improves high value >>>> separation >>>> due to its restraining action. Both exposure (more) and developing >>>> time >>>> (longer) should be adjusted if significant amounts of restrainer >>>> are used. >>>> Adding more carbonate to a developer to which bromide has been >>>> added or >>>> has accumulated, will cool the tone and decrease developing >>>> times, but >>>> retain high value separation. Using the factorial timing approach >>>> described by Adams is convenient to adjust times after additions >>>> (10% >>>> solutions of KBr and Na2CO3 are convenient). >>>> >>>> Tim >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On 1/25/07 4:06 AM, "C.Breukel@xxxxxxx" <C.Breukel@xxxxxxx> wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>>> } >>>>>> >>>>>> January 24, 2007, from Lloyd Erlick, >>>>>> regarding Ansco 120 print developer: >>>>>> >>>>>> Thus: 12 g sodium sulfite anhydrous for one liter of *working* >>>>> solution. >>>>>> >>>>>> The working solution I use contains 13.5 grams of potassium >>>>>> sulfite >>>>>> anhydrous. I've forgotten the arduous calculation that led to >>>>>> this, >>>>> but >>>>>> the >>>>>> solution works very nicely indeed. Maybe those more chemically >>>>>> adept >>>>> than >>>>>> I >>>>>> am can correct my numbers ... >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> ..ok I take the "challenge"..:-).. >>>>> >>>>> molecular weight sodium sulfite: 126,04 >>>>> molecular weight potassium sulfite: 158,26 >>>>> >>>>> So 12 g sodium sulfite equels (158,26/126,04)*12 = 1,26 * 12 = >>>>> 15,12 g >>>>> potassium sulfite. >>>>> >>>>> A bit more than you use now, bit it ain't rocket scince, it >>>>> probably >>>>> won't matter too much.. >>>>> >>>>> Best, >>>>> >>>>> Cor >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> =================================================================== >>>>> == >>>>> ========= >>>>> ==============================To unsubscribe from this list, go to >>>>> www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail >>>>> address and >>>>> password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from >>>>> there. >>>> >>>> >>>> ==================================================================== >>>> == >>>> ======================================= >> >>>> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to >>>> your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when >>>> you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. >>> >>> ===================================================================== >>> ====== >> ================================== >>> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon >>> to your >> account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you >> subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. >>> >> >> ====================================================================== >> ======================================= >> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to >> your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when >> you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. > >=========================================================================== ================================== >To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. > ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.