I've done this and it is one of those gee-whiz kinda things. I did it shooting
RAW and had the app work on the files I selected as opposed to tethered as you
did. As one changes the focus, the apparent size of the subject will change in
the viewfinder. The software takes care of that when putting the series of
shots together. I found it very cool. If you're going to shoot jewelry and
want everything in focus, you need this. f11 in digital is about as small an
aperture as you can use as diffraction messes up the works completely if you go
any smaller. Make one wonder why they bother putting f32 on the macro.
On Friday, March 31, 2017 11:28 PM, bobkiss caribsurf.com
<bobkiss@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
DEAR LIST,
Lest anyone doubt my dedication to and love for silver gelatin photography
and hand made, prints, I developed my first roll of film in trays (on my knees)
on the floor of my parents darkened basement 54 years ago, shot thousands of
rolls and sheets of film since then (first as an advertising and fashion photog
then, for the last two decades, as a fine art photog) and made more prints than
I can count. I still shoot with my 8X10, 5X7, 4X5, 'Blad, Nikons & Leicas and
just had a Rollei CLA'd that was first owned by Mr Cunard (you know, the boy
who owned a few boats! LOL!!!). So, like most of you, I have processing chems
running in my veins! O.K.?
Hooooooooooooooooooooooooooowever, something amazing happened today. I
have been working on a fine art photo project that concentrates on extreme
closeups. I have been doing the depth of field dance between closing up to get
some DOF with the accompanying loss of sharpness due to diffraction effects.
As Richard can confirm, the "sweet spot" (minimum degradation due to
aberrations plus diffraction effects) is usually between 2 and 3 stops above
wide open. This is pretty useless when shooting macro which requires high f#s
for any DOF. And, for these shots, Scheimpflug doesn't work.
I just connect Canon 5D MK IV to my computer and used Helicon "Control"
and "Focus" programs. For maximum sharpness, I purposefully chose f8 on the
Canon 100mm macro lens which was 3 stops above the wide open of f2.8. These
programs automatically "bracketed focus" between the nearest and farthest
distances at which I wanted sharpness and then combined the files to render a
VERY sharp image over that area. This is something that film cameras simply
cannot do.
In summary I am completely agreeing with those members of this list who
state that film and digital cameras and media are creative tools. We should
know them both so we can choose the best tool to actualize our creative vision
for each creative challenge.
CHEERS!
BOB
