Amazing thanks, I think this is the way I’m going to go. I also think I’m going
to offer to do the closest bit of mowing myself, I have a hand mower and think
this would offer a quieter solution and I can always wear my suit while doing
it.
Thanks again really good info.
Best
Karen
Karen Giles
Senior Design Engineer
Black Dog Design Ltd
t: 07790 908144
e:karen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On 15 Sep 2019, at 15:07, Ann Welch <ann.welch123@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi Karen,
I've Attached some pictures of the bees at Buckingham Garden Centre for you
to have a look at. These hives have been in that location to my knowledge at
least three or four years and are in a very public place, (the path you can
see in the picture showing the outside of the trellis screen is a public
path). The owners clearly don't see these bees as a problem for either their
staff or the customers given the screening they've provided which is about 5
feet or so high (not including the peeks of the trellis). I'm 5 ft 5 and I
can see over the top at the sides which don't have those peeks. The green
mesh has quite a close weave, you could use debris netting which isn't too
expensive (see pic). Given that you will want to work on your allotment
without a bee suit and quite close to your bees it might make life much
easier if you make them their own little enclosure similar to this.
Also don't assume that if they're docile when you first get them, that
they'll always remain docile ! Their character may well change as they build
stores and have brood to protect or if they're being stressed by
something....like a lawn mower for example. Taking proper precautions from
the start might avoid someone getting upset with you.
It might also be very worth while keeping a hat and veil handy, both for you
should you need it and to offer the chap that mows the grass to wear if he's
going to mow anywhere near your bees. He may well be grateful and again it
could avoid a problem for you.
The only problem I see with the proximity of the children's play area is when
your bees swarm. It's conceivable that they could end up in the play area.
Having said that, I'm sure the children will not go near them but you might
end up with an audience when you go to catch them. Actually I live right
next to a kiddies play area myself and that was one of my biggest concerns
and when it did happen (three times) I was fortunate that I saw the bees go
each time. They landed in the hedge between my garden and the field but
luckily whilst the children were still at school. I sat on the swing and
had a play in my bee suit whilst waiting for them to all go into my swarm
box. It was very pleasant ha ha. It's not an over used play area thank
goodness.
I hope that's of some help,
Good luck
Ann
On 14/09/2019 20:58, Oxnatbees wrote:<Buckingham garden centre bees 2 2015-02-25 12.49.46.jpg>
Karen, here's a bit of a late reply. There was a meeting today (more on that
in a blog post). It went on much longer than anyone expected!
I’ve been given the go ahead for up to 3 hives on my allotment! (I’m
starting with 1 next spring!)
Congratulations!!!
I am hoping to tap into your expanse of knowledge regarding facing
position and best location to benefit the bees.
I have a corner plot with a large hedge along one side and a barb wire
fence between my plot and a horse paddock on the other. To complicate
things there is a children’s park about 100m (the opposite direction to
the paddock) away which I have been asked to mitigate against bees heading
for (not sure that’s possible?!)
Most people in the northern hemisphere point their hive entrances East or
South East if feasble. I suspect it doesn't really matter and you see them
pointing in all directions. The idea is that the morning light comes in and
wakes them up early, then they go out and get more nectar. Now, they
definitely get up earlier. I rotated my hives 45 degrees to test this and
the bees immediately began flying half an hour earlier. Whether this means
they get more nectar is questionable though! If you watch honeybees they are
very scent-driven and they do not land on flowers in shade, the flowers must
be sun warmed before honeybees feed from them. (Whereas bumblebees are not
put off by cold.)
What is usually more important is the flight path. So for example Ann
Poulter had some hives in a side passage next to her house. It was shady,
and the bee entrance could only face one way, but the bees were fine.
So, most important is whether the flight path of the bees crosses a path /
area used by humans. Almost as important though is whether it is near
horses. That's because unlike most animals, if a horse is stung it does not
run away. Its instinct is to kick out, This could knock over the hive. So
you want the hive at least a few feet from the horses.
One trick people often use is to put a head height barrier in front of the
hive entrance. For example a fence or hedge. This forces emerging bees to
climb above head height before flying on. They tend to cruise at that height
- presumably it takes more energy to move up/down than fly horizontally.
Of course a barrier like this can shade the entrance. But as discussed above
that is probably not too important. I was going to use a bean fence in front
of one (plans changed) - I reckoned this would let some light through but
discourage the bees from barging straight out. It's the last few feet before
the entrance that are where stings happen, partly because the traffic is
concentrated there, but also because the bees zoom straight in / out and
don't expect to find a mobile object (you) in front of them.
As it is an allotment you will be near the bees, and sweating. You can
expect the bees to find you are a delicious salty drink. You don't want
their entrance to face a bed you will work a lot. Helen pointed out a while
ago, don't grow plants with pungent saps neat the hive because if you crush
them it alarms the bees.
Here is a factor you may not have thought of: ideally the entrance should be
a good distance above the ground, for example 12 to 18 inches. If it is down
near the ground, it will be in the zone where damp and mist accumulate
overnight. Also if you have a stand with legs, you can wrap copper tape
round the legs to stop slugs creeping up.
Also in our climate, you ideally want the hive to be in shade from noon on.
Do you have any trees on your plot or next to it?
Can you tell us -
- what type of hive you will be using
- which directions (north etc) the sides are on (send a sketch?)
- how big the plot is - if it is small it may constrain you
The final point raised by our council was regarding competition for food
with “wild” bees (yes I explained that all bees are wild!!) and whether I
can do some planting to mitigate the honey bees effect on other bees food
sources. I have to be honest this is not something I’ve given much
thought to but any thoughts on this and any planting suggestions would be
welcome.
Hmm well some plants are no use to honeybees with their little short
tongues, but fine for bumblebees and butterflies. Red clover? I'm hoping
someone else can answer this query as it's not my area of expertise.
Paul
<Buckingham garden centre bees 4 2015-02-25 12.49.51.jpg>
<Bucks gardencentre bees 3 2015-02-25 13.01.32.jpg>
<Bucks gardencentre bees 2015-02-25 12.49.16.jpg>
<145g-m-debris-netting-1-1.jpg>
