We heard a good line this morning. Pendleton on a Sunday is not a lively place. You can go to the steak house and order steak and a shot of house whiskey. Or you can eat at the brewery, which I wouldn't advise. They have a new cook, who burns fries. Before dinner yesterday evening we took the river walk and passing some shady characters and some downtown sheep, which had been set the task of removing riverbank weeds. This morning the owner of the independent motel we'd chosen, a very small Indian fellow who had moved up from L.A. because "this place is so nice and quiet," was having extra security cameras installed on his roof. "You don't want more cameras," said the hugely overweight electrician who had come to bid on a different job, "you just need a bigger dawg." We hurried away and so didn't hear whether or not the Indian launched into the monologue he tried on us. It concerned America's eating habits. We were...er...headed towards a milliner. Few of those nowadays, but this one had a hundred-year-old head-measuring machine. I thought about asking, when they tried it on me, whether they also did phrenology, but they weren't evidently the bantering kind of people. I thought it great fun to see exactly what size and shape my head is and I'm really quite tempted to have a custom hat made. No, it won't be a cowboy hat. But what might it be? Answers on the back of a postcard, please, addressed to "What hat should David wear?" In Joseph and up and down the valley where the Nez Perce used to live, there are monuments to the noble and courageous people who were kicked out in order to build Enterprise. That's the name of the town, "Enterprise." The thing you notice in photos in the county museum is that the Nez Perce don't have pierced noses. We ate in a restaurant that froze circa 1980. It serves one entree per night; we got steak, twice baked potato, salad. The wine list had some interesting selections. "We'd like to try..." I offered. "Don't have that." "How about...?" "Nope." I tried a third time. I should explain that there was only one waitress for a room full of people, so my clumsy efforts to find which of the twelve wines on the list actually did exist were keeping others from saying how they'd like their steaks cooked. I asked if I could bring in a bottle from the car. No problem. The last wine on the list? Manischewitz...which was described as, "Sweet wine from Israel." (I have it filed mentally under, "Cough syrup.") The steak was fine. It is, after all, beef country. We stopped to buy beef from a roadside hut. The instructions were quite clear. You opened the freezer, selected what you want, wrote in the book what you'd taken, put the money in the steel box. There was another box with money to make change. The sign said, "Integrity is what you do when no one is watching." The county museum has a good write-up on an early bank robbery. One of the gang got away with two thousand dollars and was never seen again. One was shot dead. A third guy was arrested, given a seven year jail sentence, of which he served four. He then returned to shepherding, built up his flock, did well, became vice president of the very same bank. We saw a young grizzly. It ran across the freeway in front of the car in front of us. Alas, there was no safe way to take a photo. Carry on, keeping a sharp eye out for bears. David Ritchie, back in Portland, Oregon------------------------------------------------------------------ To change your Lit-Ideas settings (subscribe/unsub, vacation on/off, digest on/off), visit www.andreas.com/faq-lit-ideas.html