[LRFlex] Re: Extension tube #14198 question

  • From: "Peter M. C. Choy" <pmcc_2000@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: leicareflex@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 14:57:24 -0700 (PDT)

Hmm. Now I'm nervous.  This sounds
like it may end up being more of a 
project than Dr. Fatfingers here had
it mind. My tool kit is from Fisher-Price.

Peter.

--- Douglas Herr <telyt@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Peter, I've removed two of the collars.  The first
> time I didn't realize it was glued on and I tried
> grinding it down.  The vibration shook it loose.  On
> the second one I pried and twisted with a
> screwdriver between the lock button and the collar. 
> Be careful not to mar the flange.  Come to think of
> it I may have removed the flange to avoid damaging
> it.  Re-installing the lock button and especially
> it's spring can be a fussy job.
> 
> Doug Herr
> Birdman of Sacramento
> http://www.wildlightphoto.com
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Peter M. C. Choy" <pmcc_2000@xxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Apr 26, 2005 2:44 PM
> To: leicareflex@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [LRFlex] Re: Extension tube #14198 question
> 
> Doug,
> 
> The 14198 should be on its way and in my
> hands first of next week. Thanks for the 
> thoughts on collar removal. My neurons can 
> deal with the setscrew, but I am mentally 
> challenged by the prospect of ungluing. 
> Any hints?  How firm a grip are we talking
> about here?
> 
> Peter.
> SF,CA and Melbourne, VIC.
> 
> 
> --- Doug Herr <telyt@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> > If it's 2-cam you don't get full-aperture metering
> > on R bodies.  That's the
> > only difference.  BTW the collar is held in place
> > with a setscrew and glue.
> > 
> > Doug Herr
> > Birdman of Sacramento
> > http://www.wildlightphoto.com
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > on 4/25/05 9:43 PM, Peter M. C. Choy at
> > pmcc_2000@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > 
> > > Doug,
> > > 
> > > Many thanks. I'm hoping I will be able
> > > to modify a 14198 in the way you suggest,
> > > provided my gray matter is up to the task.
> > > The only remaining issue is whether the
> > > particular 14198 I have in mind happens to be
> > > a 3 cam model. Will your suggested modification
> > > work for my purposes if it turns out to be
> > > a 2 cam model?
> > > 
> > > Peter.
> > > 
> > > --- Doug Herr <telyt@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > >> on 4/25/05 6:59 PM, Peter M. C. Choy at
> > >> pmcc_2000@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > >> 
> > >>> I have a 2nd version triple-cam 60mm Macro
> > Elmarit
> > >>> that I use on my SL2.  The extension tube that
> > >>> goes with this lens is #14256, which I believe
> > >>> is R only and thus can't be used on the SL2.
> > >>> 
> > >>> Can anyone tell me if the extension tube that
> > >>> goes with the lst version of the lens, #14198,
> > is
> > >>> compatible with the second version of the
> lens?
> > >>> If so, is it possible to use the first version
> > >>> extension tube with an SL2 and the 2nd version
> > >>> 3 cams 60mm Macro Elmarit?
> > >>> 
> > >>> Thanks in advance.
> > >>> 
> > >>> Peter.
> > >> 
> > >> I know of no reason the 2nd version 60 Macro
> > >> couldn't be used with the
> > >> 14198.  You can use the 14256 if you modify the
> > >> camera-end flange, but you
> > >> will have to use stop-down metering on the SL2
> > when
> > >> you use this modified
> > >> 14256.
> > >> 
> > >> A better (IMHO) solution is to get a 3-cam
> 14198
> > and
> > >> remove the collar that
> > >> fits over the 60's aperture ring.  This will
> then
> > be
> > >> usable with any
> > >> Leicaflex-compatible lens and either R or 'flex
> > >> bodies with full-aperture
> > >> metering.  You even get full-aperture metering
> > with
> > >> single-cam lenses!  A
> > >> further modification is to have the lens-end
> > flange
> > >> modified to fit R-only
> > >> lenses, then you will have a truly universal
> > Leica-R
> > >> extension tube.
> > >> 
> > >> Operation with this modified extension tube
> > requires
> > >> a bit more brainpower
> > >> than with the unmodified tube but if you can
> type
> > on
> > >> a keyboard you ought to
> > >> have an adequate supply of functional neurons.
> > >> Here's how it goes:
> > >> 
> > >> ) set the lens' aperture ring to the minimum
> > >> aperture
> > >> ) assemble the various parts
> > >> 
> > >> (these two steps can be performed in random
> > order)
> > >> 
> > >> ) when metering, use the aperture ring on the
> > 14198
> > >> ) think of the 14198's aperture settings not as
> > 2.8,
> > >> 4. 5.6, etc, but as
> > >> "full aperture", "one stop down", "two stops
> > down",
> > >> etc.  Obviously this
> > >> corresponds quite well to the actual settings
> > >> (neglecting extension factor)
> > >> when the lens' maximum aperture is f/2.8.
> > >> ) be aware of the lens' minimum aperture and
> > don't
> > >> try to stop the 14198's
> > >> aperture ring down farther than the lens's
> > >> corresponding actual aperture.
> > >> 
> > >> Doug Herr
> > >> Birdman of Sacramento
> > >> http://www.wildlightphoto.com
> > >> 
> > >> 
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> > > 
> > >
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