[elky] Re: Close-up Photography Question
- From: Chris Lindh <chrislindh@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: elky@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 18:37:52 -0500
It's a carburetor spacer, but I suppose you could use it to space up a
4 barrel throttle body higher. It's square bore flange (not spread
bore or Dominator).
Do you need a throttle body spacer for something? TBI?
--
Chris Lindh
http://www.PartsForSpeed.com
On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 6:31 PM, Jim <jdos@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Chris,
> Was that picture a throttle body extension ?
>
> Jim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: elky-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:elky-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
> Of Chris Lindh
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 3:39 PM
> To: elky@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [elky] Re: Close-up Photography Question
>
> I've been pleased with Eibach's product, but it appears they only make
> kits for the V6 CTS, which is odd.
>
> If you find something let me know and I'll price it. I can drop ship
> truck accessories too: step bars, tonneaus, you name it.
>
> --
> Chris Lindh
> http://www.PartsForSpeed.com
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 4:25 PM, Mongar, Brian <Brian.Mongar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>> Thanks, was just looking to check it out, don't have anything in mind but
> have been considering a lowering kit for some time now, but most kits are
> only about .75 to 1 inch and that to me is sort of hard to justify, would
> like 2 in the back for sure.
>>
>> Thank You
>> Brian Mongar
>> CBSHOME REAL ESTATE
>> 402.880.8899
>>
>> Sent from my Treo™ Pro on the Now Network™ from Sprint®
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Chris Lindh <chrislindh@xxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:52 PM
>> To: elky@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <elky@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Subject: [elky] Re: Close-up Photography Question
>>
>>
>> We are still uploading products, the site is still in beta-testing.
>> There are a bunch of products in the Air & Fuel section, especially
>> the Carbs & Accessories subsection... but that's no help for you on
>> the V.
>>
>> Also check out the eBay store: http://stores.ebay.com/CobbParts-com
>>
>> I can supply just about any performance part available, so if there is
>> something you need (want) I can price it for you. If you have part
>> numbers that helps but if not I can do the research.
>>
>> Thanks
>> --
>> Chris Lindh
>> http://www.PartsForSpeed.com
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 3:45 PM, Mongar, Brian <Brian.Mongar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>>> The photo. Sorry was trying to check out your site. Looks nice but I am
> not sure I have figured it out, when I go thru your categories on the left,
> it appears there is nothing in any of them. Am I doing something wrong?
>>>
>>> Thought I would see if you had any fun parts for the V, after seeing that
> nice photo.
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: elky-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:elky-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Chris Lindh
>>> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 1:57 PM
>>> To: elky@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> Subject: [elky] Re: Close-up Photography Question
>>>
>>> Thanks, the part or the photo? The CSR spacer is a CNC'd work of art,
>>> four hole on the carb side, open on the intake side... they're
>>> expensive though and so far I have had zero interest in them... but my
>>> other CSR items have done well...
>>>
>>> The photo could be better with more clean white light. Also I need a
>>> matte white background, since you can see reflections in the gloss.
>>> The photo quality compared to my old point and shoot... no comparison,
>>> should have bought a DSLR the day I started the business (duh).
>>> --
>>> Chris Lindh
>>> http://www.PartsForSpeed.com
>>>
>>> On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 2:45 PM, Mongar, Brian <Brian.Mongar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>>>> That looks impressive.
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: elky-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:elky-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Chris Lindh
>>>> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 1:37 PM
>>>> To: elky@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>> Subject: [elky] Re: Close-up Photography Question
>>>>
>>>> Sure sign me up for the list...
>>>>
>>>> I should have mentioned the major source of my problems is using compact
> fluorescent bulbs that are "warm" color meaning they are slightly yellow to
> approximate incandescent bulbs (bought for household lighting)... so the
> white background I'm using ends up yellowish. Photoshop helps but I'd
> rather do as little editing as possible, since I'm going to be photographing
> a LOT of parts over time.
>>>>
>>>> I should probably try a couple shop lights with incandescent bulbs
> (100W, "pure white"?)... worth a shot given what I might spend on a flash.
>>>>
>>>> See the attached photo. Not a terrible shot but you can see the areas
> that are not white. I want the background to be totally gone - no shadows
> or other colors. I know I can cut the background out in Photoshop but that
> is more steps.
>>>>
>>>> I'm going to have to read the T1i manual about the white balance, that
> trick sounds like a winner.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 1:24 PM, Ray Buck <rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>>> I use a Canon Speedlight 220. It's one of the bottom of the line
> models.
>>>>> But it works very nicely...for flash fill. Not really for macro
>>>>> stuff. (I have a 430EX on my Amazon wish list.) Some experiments
>>>>> I've done indicate that natural or some form of continuous light is
>>>>> better than a strobe...at least the way I did it. To answer your
>>>>> question directly, none of the strobes (Canon Speedlights and their
>>>>> equivalents) will illuminate for more than a fraction of a
> second...including slaves.
>>>>>
>>>>> A couple of suggestions: Use "daylight" incandescent lamps (stay away
>>>>> from
>>>>> fluorescent) to provide lighting from a couple of angles to eliminate
>>>>> shadows...or as you said, even lighting. More in a different
>>>>> paragraph about white balance.
>>>>>
>>>>> Re-reading the linked article, I see how this could be done with a
>>>>> remote strobe. It wouldn't have to remain on any longer than the TTL
>>>>> logic tells it to. You'd just need a remote hot shoe or an IR trigger
>>>>> signal...but I've read people complain about the IR stuff; they seem
>>>>> to prefer hard wiring. I think I would too, but the photos there show
> a wireless remote trigger.
>>>>> I'll assume it's RF activated based on what seems to be an antenna on
> it.
>>>>>
>>>>> The attached photo is one I did in my experimentation. I was using
>>>>> natural light plus a fill flash. I found that with that particular
>>>>> subject, I had to set the camera to manual and stop down three full
>>>>> stops to get an exposure without hot spots. Might have had something
>>>>> to do with the reflective nature of the packaging, but that's what it
>>>>> took...from f8 (which is what the camera's meter indicated) to f22.
>>>>>
>>>>> I really like that Strobist site. I'm gonna have to try some of the
>>>>> things suggested there. One thing I read was:
>>>>> "It is important to mention that I could have done this with two plain
>>>>> old desk lamps, too. Just balance to tungsten, tripod the (shooting)
>>>>> camera and move the lights in or out to alter the lighting ratio."
>>>>>
>>>>> That's good to remember. I dunno if you've messed around with your
>>>>> white balance in the camera, but I found a trick on a web page that
>>>>> worked well for me. Instead of using a #14 gray card to set WB with,
>>>>> cover the lens of the camera with a white plastic bag (these work well
>>>>> for limiting/diffusing the strobe's output, too) and shoot your light
> source...directly at it.
>>>>> Then use that image to set a custom white balance in the camera.
>>>>> Make sure you set it back to auto before moving on to the next shot.
>>>>>
>>>>> That site's "Welcome" page has a very kool image of a fluorescent
>>>>> lamp...which appears to be switched on, but I don't see how. Real
>>>>> neat trick.
>>>>>
>>>>> I think John Christensen is the expert here. He's been doing it for a
>>>>> long time with jewelry.
>>>>>
>>>>> One last thing. I run a very small mailing list for photographers.
>>>>> It started out with 4 of us who are "the usual suspects" at the local
>>>>> race track. It's grown and includes JC and Jim Dos. If you'd like to
>>>>> be added, let me know. I keep subscription to manual mode to keep the
> riff-raff out.
>>>>> Well, except I let me in and I guess that's sorta self-defeating. :)
>>>>> Lemme know if ya wanna sign up for it. Btw, the PWAL lives there,
> too.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ray
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> At 10:24 AM 12/4/2009, you wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My Canon T1i is taking great photos of the family, scenery, etc. but
>>>>>> the close up photos of parts aren't turning out as well as I'd hoped.
>>>>>> The reason is obvious. Even with multiple lamps I don't have enough
>>>>>> lighting.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm going to build a light box per this blog:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio
>>>>>> .html
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My question is: he is using a flash for lighting - do all flashes
>>>>>> have a feature where you can turn them to "on" for a few seconds to
>>>>>> illuminate your subject? Or will I need a remote cord? Ideally I'd
>>>>>> get two flashes so that I can have even lighting.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Chris Lindh
>>>>>> http://www.PartsForSpeed.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
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>
>
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>
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