The method I use that works very well is to block the aperture with something (cardboard works well) with a width around half the diameter of the telescope's aperture all the way across and through the center of the aperture. When the scope is not in focus, you'll see two images similar to a range finder camera. When the two images combine into one, the scope is in good focus. Do this on a bright star near the area of sky you want to photograph and then compose your shot. I use this method with my Canon EOS 20D and it works great. I also use a magnifying right angle finder on the camera's eyepiece to make it easier to see. Rick Scott -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [AZ-Observing] Focusing input requested Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 4:15 PM From: Bob Christ <bchrist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Reply-To: az-observing@xxxxxxxxxxxxx To: az-observing@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Greetings all, some time ago I read an article (don't recall the reference) that addressed the use of diffraction spikes as a means to achieve a higher level of focus versus when astroimaging versus using a Hartman mask. The approach was touted as being easier and much more accurate. String or some other thin material, positioned to bisect the objective lens, creates the spike effect. When the width of the spikes has been minimized - excellent focus has been achieved. Has anyone used this technique? Is a single "string" used, or two at 90° apart? And, what is the thinness/thickness of material to use? Guidance will be much appreciated. Thanks, Bob Christ -- See message header for info on list archives or unsubscribing, and please send personal replies to the author, not the list.