[argyllcms] Re: reflective measurement: underlayment plate

  • From: Ben Goren <ben@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: argyllcms@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2014 11:11:30 -0700

On Nov 18, 2014, at 10:11 AM, Lars-Daniel Weber <Lars-Daniel.Weber@xxxxxx> 
wrote:

> I've got my i1 some days ago and want to measure reflectives printed by my 
> inkjet.
> What inderlayment plate do I need?

Ideal is whatever the prints themselves are going to be displayed on top of. If 
you're making photographs you'll mount on mat board, use the mat board for 
backing. If it's a bound volume, use a sheet or three of the same paper.

Most fine art papers are opaque enough that the errors introduced because of 
the backing board showing through are negligible. But, if you're going to 
profile a delicate Japanese "washi" fine art paper, it's definitely a concern. 
(And Moab's Monkopi Unryu prints beautifully on a Canon iPF8100, for what it's 
worth.)

> Is it better to measure in a dark room (no light at all) or at ~ 5000 K?

Any normal ambient lighting is going to be fine. There're so many stops 
difference between what negligible amount might leak past the bottom and the 
instrument's own illuminant that you're not going to be able to measure the 
difference -- it'll be dwarfed by sensor / electronics noise and temperature 
drifts and the like. Don't shine a really bright light directly at the base as 
you tip the instrument and you'll be fine.

Again, if you're really paranoid about it, use the same light as the print will 
be viewed in.

I can definitely appreciate where you're coming from in wanting to eliminate 
possibilities of measurement error; I went through a similar phase, myself. 
But...well, remember that saying, "Measure with a micrometer; mark with chalk; 
cut with axe"? That applies here. Don't do anything obviously silly (like try 
to shine a light into the aperture) and you'll wind up with measurements that 
have more precision than anything else in your workflow.

Cheers,

b&

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