Thanks Ed, You explained that very well and shined some light on the subject that I hadn't seen before, It makes perfect sense now. and I apologize to any Melco participants that may have taken offense to my comment. It was very confusing until you explained that. Ed, you the man!! Ron Vinyard Body Cover / Magic Stitches 1-888-435-0176 420 SW H street Grants Pass, OR 97526 info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx www.bodycoverdesign.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "E. Orantes" <e3m@xxxxxxx> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Friday, April 15, 2005 8:12 AM Subject: [amayausers] Re: Presser foot theory > Guys, > Sometimes, when troubleshooting a problem, trying things differently can > give you vital informative results which leads you closer to a solution for > that problem. Even if you are instructed to do something different than > what you had been taught previously. > The Presser Foot, for most embroiderers is a relatively new concept. Not > really, it's been around since the beginning of sewing time, but on some, if > not all machines prior to the Amaya, the presser foot had no height > adjustment or if it did, was so involved that no one ever changed it or even > knew how. So you ask, then why do I need a presser foot that has a variable > height adjustment? > First of all, the name, Presser foot, should have been called, the > "Material Hold-down Foot". Because that's what it's for - specifically as > the needle is being removed from the fabric. When you push the needle into > the fabric, it's possible for the needle to "stick" or "wedge" itself > between other tight stitches in the fabric. If you didn't have a presser > foot on your machine, as the needle would rise back up, the fabric would go > up with it. Do this at a rapid pace and you've got what's called "vertical > flagging" and as we all know, flagging in any direction in embroidery is a > bad thing. (The word flagging comes from what a flag looks like whipping > around in the wind.) > On other machines, the presser foot is pretty much set at one height which > is about an eight of an inch or so off the top of the needle plate. This > amount of space is adequate for most fabrics plus a few layers of backing > and topping too. For most embroidery, this works great across the board. > If you have to go to something thicker like a thick suede, leather, > blanket, jacket, bag, etc.. or say you put on the machine a thicker needle > plate for doing caps, the presser foot will give because it's spring loaded > and will push up if necessary. However, the original height is now too low > for these thicker applications and what results is a "peltering" or "beating > of the fabric" by the presser foot. This is very unnecessary and could > leave marks on the fabric, create an annoying tapping noise on the machine, > and in time, may cause for the inner workings of the presser foot mechanism > to wear more so than not. However, as a tech, I see this in people's shops > all the time. And they don't know any better, nor do they care. It's just > one more thing for them to think about and if the customer doesn't have a > problem with it, neither do they (I'm thinking about comments from the last > customer I talked to about this). > So on the Amaya, this subject was addressed by the engineers and the > "easily adjustable presser foot" was born. The operative word here is > "easily". Other machines have adjustments too but you have to remove > machine covers, use screwdrivers, "eye ball" settings, etc.. More than > anyone really cares to fool with. Some embroiderers with older machines > have addressed this issue by having a few of their needles set with a raised > presser foot setting all the time. When they do have to sew a thick > garment, they simple use those particular needles. That's one more benefit > of having multiple needles on one machine. **Remember that on other > machines, each needle has it's own presser foot unlike the Amaya that has > one, that is shared by all 16 needles. > So this is a real nifty "bells and whistle" type of feature that comes in > handy for those who choose to employ it's benefits. If not, you can run > your machine like all the other conventional type machines by simply > lowering your presser foot to it's lowest setting and never touching it > again. It's really a matter of choice. > One major problem Melco has had with this feature- the easily adjustable > presser foot, is the "operator error" part of the deal. The operator raises > the presser foot to run a thick garment, and then forgets to lower it again > for the next thinner garment. What usually happens next are consistent > thread breaks. And the operator complains that the machine is "bad". I > wish I had a nickel for every time this has happened. > > So if someone in the technical department suggests for you to run your > machine with the presser foot setting all the way down, and your problems go > away, it could have been an operator error type of problem. If you do the > same and you still have problems, then other areas of the machine should be > considered. > > As for WD-40 on/in the machine... you could put peanut butter in your > rotary hook and I'm sure it would have some lubrication properties, but it > would be a pain to get all of it out (especially the crunchy kind). The oil > that is recommended for the rotary hook is a clear, light weight, minimal > odor type of oil. If you were to overdo it a little with too many drops of > oil in the rotary hook and accidentally get oil on the garment, you might be > able to recover without a loss. The issue with WD-40, and all other types > of oils or lubricants is first, are they capable of lubricating the rotary > hook to engineering standards and second, what kind of stain will you have > to clean on the garment if you put too much WD-40 on the rotary hook. > Remember that most cans of WD-40 have a sprayer type of nozzle which means > if you're not careful, it's going everywhere you don't want it to be. So > it's really more of an issue of quantity and control. > Hope this helps. Now back to taxes... > Ed > > Ed & Maralien Orantes > E.M. Broidery > 900 Terry Parkway, Ste. 200 > New Orleans, La. 70056 > 504-EMBROID ery (504-362-7643) > > -----Original Message----- > From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Body Cover > Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2005 11:46 AM > To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [amayausers] Re: Exasperation - Happy Now > > > WHAT!?!??! > I have trouble believing that they think the presser > foot should be all the way down on everything!! > That seems to go against all the documentation and > common sense of why it is even there. > Is it any wonder that we have so many problems > when the people we count on for answers aren't > even consistent. > > Oh well > I also heard that we weren't supposed to touch the machine at all > with WD-40 anywhere at anytime. > I could be wrong though. > I learn something new everyday. > > Ron Vinyard > Body Cover / Magic Stitches > 1-888-435-0176 > > 420 SW H street > Grants Pass, OR 97526 > > info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > www.bodycoverdesign.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Lee or Terri Hoover" <lhoover2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2005 8:35 AM > Subject: [amayausers] Re: Exasperation - Happy Now > > >> Hi All, >> >> I've been having problems with fraying threads on any/all needles. > Thought >> it had to do with operator errors (mine). Tried many things, including >> replacing all rollers, all needles, and bobbin case. And checked rotary >> hook for burrs and timing - seemed ok. Things improved but still a problem >> here and there. Never could get a complete sew out without fraying > thread. >> Then it started getting worse again. Finally came to my senses and called >> Melco. The following is what they had me do to clean the rotary hook > area. >> Everything seems to be ok. (They seemed to think that using adhesive >> backing and spray adhesive tends to "mess" up the rotary hook area.) >> >> To clean out the rotary hook area: >> Unthread at needle >> Raise thread feed roller >> Remove bobbin casing >> Turn off thread detection in settings >> Have machine speed set to at least 1100 >> >> Start machine, when it gets up to speed: >> spray WD40 soaking bobbin area >> Spray air to blow out WD40 >> >> Repeat >> >> (Note: may want to have cloth on table to catch excess) >> >> Stop machine >> >> "Trim Immediate" from keypad >> Rethread machine >> Close roller >> Set thread detection on >> Replace bobbin >> >> On another note he said to keep the pressure foot all the way down on most >> everything. On towels maybe raise it 1-2 notches. >> >> > >