One of the advantages of the Ilford papers (not the Warmtone) is that they tone poorly in Selenium, with almost no change in color. Just that green tinge leaves for a richer gray scale, also IMHO the contrast range is not affected. AGFA MCC took a beautiful aubergine, and the Patterson papers also toned well. Ilford WT was the most interesting paper to tone since the range of tones was variable depending on the developer. I used Ethol LPD, and depending on the concentration (1+2 -> 1+10) the tones went from brown-ish to purple, I assume this is due to the different action of the developer which makes the images warmer/colder to start with and that should somehow affect the size of the silver grains to be toned later. I was using patterson selenium toner when I tried all these papers, but I assume kodak's would do more or less the same. --- Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > > > > There seems to be no research data on Sistan. It may > very well work but I've never seen any proof. Fuji published > a research paper on Ag-Guard, another stabilizer. Ag-Guard > is different from Sistan so research on one does not > necessarily apply to the other. The Fuji research showed > that Ag-Guard was effective in protecting images against > action by oxidizers but less so than sulfiding toners. > Very dilute solutions of Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner do > not tone all densities uniformly. While early resarch showed > KRST to be an effective protective treatment it appears to > have changed in some way about 20 years ago. After that > change it was no longer effective in weak dilution. The > research showing this was carried out by the Image > Permenance Institute of the Rochester Institute of > Technology. At stronger dilutions KRST is effective but will > change the color or density or both of the image. The > recommended treatment is at a dilution of not more than 1:9 > and for not shorter than 3 minutes at 68F. > A better treatment is a liver of sulfur type toner such > as Kodak Brown Toner. These toners convert silver uniformly > regardless of grain size so partial toning will have some > protective action on all densities. However, KBT does cause > a color change on many materials. It, and similar toners, > are now the recommended protective treatment for microfilm. > Gold toners are also quite effective but are expensive. > Gold toner produces a neutral to bluish image on neutral > tone paper and a blue color on warm tone paper. > Bronzing or silvering out is an effect of atmospheric > oxidizers on the image. The convert the silver to a very > finely devided Silver Oxide which then can migrate to the > surface of the emulsion where some of it is converted back > to metalllic silver by other polutants. The metallic silver > can be yellow to silver in color depending on how finely > devided it is. Silver oxide is black so there are also black > stains on the surface of the print. These stains can often > be removed but some silver will have been removed from the > image so it may be faded. > Metallic silver can also be sulfided from polutants in > the air or in the emulsion. Usually, this results in a brown > or yellow stain. Where there are sulfur containing compounds > in the emulsion, such as hypo or fixer reaction products, > the stain can be generalized, not just of the image. In some > cases the stains can be removed but some techniques > recommended in the past have been shown to accelerate future > aging of the image. > A very small residue of hypo remaining in the emulsion > can act as a stabilzer by partially sulfiding the silver. > This prevents further sulfiding or oxidation. However, other > than not using very extended washing there is no > recommendation and not much information is available about > how much hypo should be retained. This effect has been known > since about 1960. It may be one reason that some drugstore > processed snapshots have survived in relatively good > condition. It has been shown, however, that film and paper > processed to the old standard of having no residual hypo is > particularly vulnerable to oxidative attack, unless it has > been toned. Sources of peroxides are plentiful especially in > urban areas. For best life prints should be toned in a > Liver-of Sulfur toner, a fairly strong solution of KRST (as > indicated above), a Gold toner or fully toned in nearly any > sulfiding toner where the resulting image color is not > objectionable. > In general, prints should not be covered by tightly > fitting glass or plastic covers, especially RC prints. > Note that in the past RC prints were subject to > oxidation from a gas emitted by the Titanium Dioxide > reflective layer beneth the emulsion. This effect was > exagerated when the prints were mounted under glass or > plastic, which prevented escape of the gas. This gas > attacked both the image and the plastic layer causing it to > craze and even flake off. Modern RC papers contain > scavengers for these gasses and, in general, are about as > permanent as fiber base paper. They will still benefit from > proper protective toning or the use of stablizer. > > --- > Richard Knoppow > Los Angeles, CA, USA > dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > ============================================================================================================= > To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and > logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password > you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. http://travel.yahoo.com/ ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.