[pure-silver] Re: Kodalith Ortho 2556 type 3
- From: Jean-David Beyer <jeandavid8@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2012 16:45:54 -0400
D.J. Kennedy wrote:
>
> I can't believe how little information is out there on this now no
> longer produced film.
There is a lot of information on this kind of film in L.P.Clerc's
2-volume set of Principles of Photography, or whatever it is called. Not
much of direct use for you, unfortunately.
>
> Any way - anyone here use this film in the past?
I have used it, and still have some 8"x10" sheets of the stuff in my
freezer.
> I recently purchased
> from my local lab a old type 66 watson bulk loader with an unknown
> amount of this film still inside. It was not stored correctly (not cold
> stored) so I have no idea what condition its in.
I always used the sheets for making half-tones using Max Levy glass
sealed half-tone screens they gave me. It is an ortholith film,
something I think totally useless for normal photography, although some
people, for whom the photographic process is not difficult enough, try
to force continuous images from this film by using very weak developers.
That's nuts, IMAO.
If you had 35 mm Kodak ortholith film, it was probably what Kodak called
Kodak Ektagraphic HC slide film.I mainly used what they called Kodalith
Ortho Film 2556 Type 3. It is described on DS7 in their publication F-5.
For more details, look in Kodak publications )-1, O-2, and O-3. These
used to be available from any Kodak graphic arts dealer, but you may
need to look for them up in university libraries these days. Maybe Kodak
still have some lying around.
If you get just one, get publication O-2 which has the most data on the
2556 series, including characteristic curves, speed rating with various
light sources, processing times with various developers, sensotometric
charts of color sensitivity, and so on.
>
> I rolled a 12 exposure roll and shot each subject twice, once at iso 6
> and again at iso 12.
ASA 10 usinig a white flame arc light, ASA 6 usiong Quartz-Iodinie
lamps, and ASA 10 using pulxed Xenon lamps.
TT
>
> As far as developing this stuff the only times/developer combination Ive
> found so far that made sense to me is going with Rodinal 1:200 full
> stand for one hour so that was what I was going to try for my first roll.
Kodak recommended around 2 3/4 minutes in litho developers for a
typical negative with continuous agitation. This assumes you are making
half-tone negatives or line negatives.
>
> Yes I know that since it wasnt properly stored, probably expired in the
> 80's or 90's and that I might not get anything on it but this is the
> sort of photography I seemed to have gravitated to (shooting expired
> film, movie film in my 35mm cameras, loading cameras with the wrong film
> types (ie 35mm into medium format cameras)). But for me this is what I
> find fun now instead of doing the normal thing. If it works - awesome,
> if it doesnt - well, I had fun doing it :P
>
> Just curious as to what iso you shot this film at if you used it, what
> developer/times you used to develop the film and if you have a link to
> any photos you have using this film.
I do not know what ISO I used, because I did not use a light meter to
determine exposure. It is too hard when using ruled glass half-tone
screens. I calculated the aperture based on the contrast of the
negative, and adjusted the time to get good dots, and developed by time
and temperature. I tended to use around a minute exposure time in my
enlarger using an Aristo cold light head and a 4x5 negative to make an
8x1 half-tone.
>
> Derek Kennedy
--
.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
/V\ PGP-Key:3EDBB65E 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939.
/( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org
^^-^^ 16:20:01 up 4 days, 40 min, 3 users, load average: 1.08, 1.11, 1.13
=============================================================================================================
To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,)
and unsubscribe from there.
Other related posts:
