[amayausers.com] Re: Hats
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- To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 03:02:16 UT
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With caps you have to deal with three separate curves.
#1 The bill.You want to get it straight. Bend it back past straight. This will
give you the ability to get the straps teeth into the seam. If you cannot get
the teeth into the seam all the way across the bill, you did not get it
straight enough.
#2 The roundness of the cap. The key to it is to get it to be the same shape as
the ring gauge. This makes it fit the machine as it should. This is where I
rub the face to get it to fit nice and snug on the ring gauge. If you do not
get it "FLAT" you will experience flagging and the accompanying thread issues.
#3 The curve from the bill to the crown. At some point the face of the cap
begins to curve as it reaches the upper area. This changes every time you
select a different cap. You can sew farther up the center than off to the
sides, but only by a small amount.
Melco says you can sew a 3 inch design on a cap with the XT and I can say they
are correct. BUT, the cap is the limiting factor, not the XT. I limit my low
profile structured to 2 inches max.
Low profile unstructured are 2 1/4 inches max.
From there the designs get taller as I go to a mid profile/pro style cap. Again
though, not all manufacture them with the same dimensions so you have to chek
them. Finally I get to the old 5 panel trucker style, this is where you can get
the 3 inches.
I trace the 1st cap on each machine but after that I dont trace at all. I only
move left/right to get center. I will say I have never had a cap get pushed off
the hoop. I know the video makes it look easy and with lots of practice
practice practice it will become easier for you as well.
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