[amayausers] Re: Digitizing Question
- From: "Sharon" <springer37@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 15:12:33 -0700
David,
You will run into this problem quite often with stock designs that are not
specifically digitized for caps. There are some important items to consider
when using these designs.
First is size. If the vertical height of the design gets too tall, the
bobbin case area of the arm will start pushing/rubbing/riding on the inside
top area of the cap. Having this happen is a guarantee that the design will
open up, the fabric will show through and the outline will be pulled away
from the outside of the design. The best rule of thumb is to stay very close
to a maximum of 2 inches in height. You can go to 2 1/4 inches on a lot of
designs and get away with it but after that, the taller the design is, the
more the design will suffer. I have even pushed some of my own digitized
designs to 2 3/4 inches but had to do a lot of fiddling to get a result that
became acceptable and debatable that it was worth all the time and effort
that I put into it..........
The second thing is usually a density and underlay problem. Because of the
curved surface of the cap it naturally wants to stretch the design somewhat.
As Larry was saying , sometimes just adding pull comp will help the
situation and even be enough to solve the immediate problem but, my
experience so far is that it usually demands editing the design to be sewn
specifically for a cap. For the best results in a production run, this has
usually meant making the design more dense with extra underlay in problem
areas on the cap.
Six panel caps can be the worst. The thick center seam will distort and
stretch the design. Sometimes the trick is to add underlay in a wide zigzag
pattern back and forth across the seam to beat it down and level it out.
There are times I have just run a vertical stitch up and down the seam to
act as a filler first and then a zigzag across the seam to level it out.
Adding underlay under the entire design in a cross hatch pattern will help
some caps to reduce the push and pull of loose fabric.
Although there are other thing that can be done, another rule of thumb in
editing a design is not to pull a running stitch outline to the fill or
design, rather, increase the size of the fill to the outline, hence the
possible use of pull comp. A problem with using just pull comp is that it
may add stitching in an area where you don't want it to be. Sometimes doing
it the hard way ( manually ) is the best way. Running stitches tend to not
move and stay where they are suppose to but it is an entirely different
animal with fills and satin columns........
And then there is learning how to use the software in Amaya and Design Shop.
One of the more valuable things that I have learned how to use is in the
"SETTINGS" tab in AMAYA OS. Click on "Settings by Color" , put a check in
the Settings by Color box and then select by needle color in an area you
would like to customize for material thickness ( CENTER SEAM IN THE CAP )
for instance, speed, column width, etc, etc...... While editing a design in
Design Shop, you can add extra color breaks in a design or in-between
individual letters in a name just so you can use this feature. This will
enable you to change the material thickness, speed, etc, on a letter or
letters across the center seam and the pick up speed etc, as it gets back on
the standard cap material thickness......
What is the stock design you are trying to sew on the caps? I may already
have this design if it is a stock design and if I do ( or send it to me ) I
would be happy to just take a look and give you some pointers and why it
appears to be giving you problems.
What style and brand of cap(s) are you sewing it on.
What speeds are you sewing at on the caps?
What material thickness are you using? Thread?
By the frames that came with the machine, I assume that means the WAFC or
270 degree style cap frames that Melco ships with their machines?
Personally I as a user of the older CCF/WACF and am a bit more fond of them
for overall use. The WACF definitely has it's place and I do use it too,
just not as often as I use the CCF/WACF style.
Hope this may be of some help.
Rod
Rod Springer
Melco Trained Technician/Owner
(Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing)
Boise, ID
(208) 938-3038
springer37@xxxxxxxxxxxx
----- Original Message -----
From: "ice_man21" <ice_man21@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 10:02 AM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Digitizing Question
> By far not an expert but I would try working with pull compensation. Had
> the same problem with a dachshund about a year ago, trashed several good
> hats before I got it close, but I was newer than I am today(still new).
>
> Larry Butler
> ice_man21@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of BudDry47@xxxxxxx
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 10:08 AM
> To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [amayausers] Digitizing Question
>
> I'm sorry. I should have said we bought the works. Design Shop Pro Plus
> is
> the software package we have. My wife(Beverly) called Melco a couple of
> weeks
> ago to ask for a schedule of classes. The lady she talked with told her
> the
> class would cost us $300 a day. We bought our machine from Kelly Paone
> out of
> Atlanta. I'm going to email her and see if she can get it straightened
> out for
> us.
> The problem I was having with stock design was I could test sew it on
> flat
> surface and it looked great. Put it on a hat and that's when it would
> have
> problems. Outline and fill would be off from each other. The hat hoops
> we are using
> are the ones that came with machine.
> Thanks for all the help.
> David
> Bev's Everything Embroidery
> TN
>
>
>
>
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