[wisb] Re: Tulum, Mexico birding ideas?

  • From: John Idzikowski <idzikoj@xxxxxxx>
  • To: jeanbean krieg <jeanbean.krieg@xxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 11:47:06 -0600 (CST)

I've been fortunate to have visited this area 3 or 4 times so here are a few 
comments. I'll post this to all as this is one of the easiest trips to make 
from Wisconsin to Mexico for tropical birding. There should be far fewer 
tourists now as opposed to the Christmas period. Bird lists for this area are 
easy to find on the Net so I'll leave that out. One of the biggest differences 
between temperate and tropical birding is that -especially in the more mature 
forests- there is high diversity but fewer individuals of a species per area 
than we are used to. Because of this you'll be finding new species daily and 
miss many. Use a Pygmy Owl imitation extensively when birding Mexico to get 
small birds -and Pygmy Owls- to mob and react.

Bird the edges of the Tulum ruins compound at the stone fence including the 
path leading from the shops to the ruins and the north-south road just before 
you get to the stone entrance of the ruins proper; it is a good idea to get 
here early. The habitat is low scrub compared to the tropical deciduous forest 
to the west; check out the beach from the bluff to the north of the el Castillo 
temple. The view here is great.

One can find some of the most mature deciduous tropical forest in all of 
Yucatan at the Punta Laguna Nature Preserve off of the Tulum-Coba Highway as 
well as good birding, but most come for the spider and howler monkeys- you are 
expected to pay a guide but tell them you are interested in birds and after 
they show you the monkeys you probably can go on the trails by yourself, but 
things change frequently in Mexico. Last time I was there the family living at 
the entrance was very Mayan, poor and the women were selling Mayan textiles.

The Tulum-Coba highway will produce many great areas to stop and bird- look for 
raptors once the thermals of the day have picked up- stop in areas where the 
forest is thick right up to highway, esp just before you get to Coba, but make 
sure that you are way off the road. Look for flycatchers and flocks of toucans 
crossing the road. Always be aware of wild dogs which are near every human 
habitation- if you are attacked or threatened just pretend that you are picking 
up a stone to throw- it seems to be a universal defense, but if the attackers 
are javelinas you'll have to run back to your car. Always be listening for 
groups of these snorting from the brush- they are dumb, nearsighted and can be 
very aggressive.  Drinks and snacks are much cheaper at the small stands that 
cater to the locals rather than the stands that are larger, have tourist stuff 
and are regular stops for the buses from the hotels, but no English is spoken 
at these. Note the people in the more secluded villages along this highway and 
the huts that they live in- many are mostly Mayan; you can purchase Mayan arts 
and crafts directly from some of the locals- look for the homes with huipils 
and/or carvings displayed. 

The other place to bird is Coba- bird all around the lagoon between the ruins 
and town. Try to get to the ruins early before the tour buses arrive around 10 
a.m. and bird the long trail- 2-3 miles to the pyramid Nonoch Mul- take the 
side trails to the lesser ruins along the way and bird the back edges. Use a 
whistled "toot-toot..." pygmy owl imitation to get the forest birds and 
neotropical migrants going.  Read up a bit on Coba and Tulum as they 
fascinating places historically in relation to the other big ruins of the 
Peninsula; look for the unbelievably work intensive sacbe at Coba and find out 
why they made Nonoch Mul so tall. You can do both Coba and Punta Laguna in a 
long day or stay in Coba if there is any room at the motels.

Most birders who visit the big biopreserves on the Coast- Sian Ka'an and Xcaret 
find them very pricey so unless money is no object bird the access roads up to 
the gates- unless you want to swim with dolphins for probably now about $175 US 
plus your daily entrance fee. Check out trip accounts and species lists at 
Birding the Americas or on Surfbirds.

John Idzikowski
Milwaukee

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Krieg" <jeanbean.krieg@xxxxxxxxx>
To: wisbirdn@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 1:41:32 PM
Subject: [wisb] Tulum, Mexico birding ideas?

Hi - We're headed off to the Tulum, Mexico area in a few weeks.
If you have any ideas for places to bird please send them -
jeanbean.krieg@xxxxxxxxx
Thanks!
Jean Krieg, Madison, Dane county


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