I'll admit the first 2 times I exchanged the coolant in one of these sets, I removed the Pix tubes. I no longer remove them. First remove expansion chamber. Extract old coolant with a horse syringe and tubing(tubing should fit tight over syringes tip). Disassemble coolant chamber 'cover'(4 nuts). Clean with Denatured alcohol and cotton clothes(I've even used paper towels in-a-pinch) Re-assemble coolant chamber cover(tighten nuts at opposite corners,snuggly first time thru,and tight second time). Fill with new coolant. Check for leaks cold,and after 2 hours of operation. Peggs At 07:27 AM 10/28/02 -0500, Damon wrote: > ><Save this in your Files....I'm not going to REWRITE this....EVER> > >Normally you won't need to reconverge it after replacing the fluid, get the >gaskets from NAP, and the coolant from MCM http://www.mcmelectronics.com . > >Don't remove the yokes from the crts. Leave them on. Remove the crt board, >the ground straps, disconnect the yoke connections, and the convergence >connections, along with HV anode wire at the splitter. Remove the 1/4" >hexangonal screws (2 on each side of crt on top). Wrap your cables around >crt, remember direction of focus lense wing nut and lift it out. > >Have a clean area around kitchen sink, and paper towels, loosen the 4 spring >loaded nuts on crts to relieve pressure (3/8" or 1/2" nutdriver) then remove >them completely (note direction of HV anode in relation to the air expansion >chamber so you don't have to re-assemble a 2nd time). You may be able to use >old gasket, but I prefer a new one each time. > >Pour out old coolant, flush coolant chamber with warm water, using your >fingers to remove the grime on the lenses. Shake out any water that gets >into air chamber. Wipe Crt face with finger/paper towel (a wet paper towel >will loosen left over goo). Now dry chamber with towels and make sure there >is no left over icky stuff. If the rounded lense in the chamber looks frosty >from the goo, don't worry about that....and DO NOT scrub that plastic ball >lense!!! Just make sure it's has no debris/chunks on it. > >Pour in new coolant after laying down gasket, fill it completely!! Fill it >to the point that the coolants surface tension is just above the very top of >the chamber and wait.....let the air chamber pop out about 3-5 bubbles of >air and make sure the level is right at the top of the chamber, set the crt >down, mount the 3/8" bolt/spring assy. Start at one side and thread it 3-4 >turns into the casting. Go opposite corner and 3-4 turns, (kinda like >mounting bolts on a car tire). Get them all started first, pressing down on >the bolting plate to finish starting the last 2 bolts. Now tighten them "1/2 >way" in an N - shaped pattern, then the last 1/2. Done.....Sealed......Wipe >off the coolant with a paper towel.....Get them dry....Pickup crt gently >roll assembly, looking for obvious leaks, drying any spots, and don't assume >you have a leak until you have dried it in all directions, any questionable >leaks, set aside crt on a paper towel and make it PROVE that it's leaking. >(It's obvious that these CRT assys are built to be leak proof , just as long >as you get the gasket in the slot in the casting). > >Now remount the CRT, theres a Pin on the casting that drops into the frame >assy, so be sure to feel it drop....pull your wires, install them, along >with the crt board and the Crt Grounds. Mount the 4 1/4" screws lastly. > >Fire it up, leave the front panel open to adjust the brown ring magnets >located on the bottom of the yoke assy (That's the only adjust, because >you've been bumping those ring magnets while working on the CRT). Use the >customer's cross hairs, and the RED CRT as the reference for the crosshair >location (if you've removed the green/blue). > >Takes about 2 hours to do 2 tubes, maybe at the most another 1/2 hour if >this is your first time. > >HTH > >Damon Brunger >damon101@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx >Telrad Electronic Services >Ft Wayne, IN 46815 > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Eric Haskins" <ehaskins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >To: <techassist@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2002 2:41 PM >Subject: [TechAssist] Magnavox RJ8550AK03 Cloudy Picture > > >> >> Hey all, >> >> I just acquired a 52 inch Magnavox RJ8550 and it works well except for >> the cloudy picture. Blue & Green have alot of debris in the fluid. It has >> been so long since I have drained and cleaned the chambers on one of these >> does anyone have a procedure on doing this? Also a good source for the >Heat >> Transfer Fluid. >> >> Last but not least does anyone have a layout of the convergence board >> adjustments on this model? >> >> Thanks >> Eric Haskins >> Eric Haskins Consulting >> A+,CCNA,Linux+,MCSE NT4 >> Clearwater, FL >> >> ------------------------------------------ >> To REMOVE your email address, click here: >> http://www.tech-assist.org/unsubb.html >> To CHANGE your email address, click here: >> http://www.techassist.net/forms/change.html >> ------------------------------------------ >> ***NEW*** Tips Added Instantly!!!*** >> Submit Repair Tips here: >> http://www.tech-assist.org/secure/tip/ >> > >------------------------------------------ >To REMOVE your email address, click here: > http://www.tech-assist.org/unsubb.html >To CHANGE your email address, click here: > http://www.techassist.net/forms/change.html >------------------------------------------ >***NEW*** Tips Added Instantly!!!*** >Submit Repair Tips here: >http://www.tech-assist.org/secure/tip/ > Peggs' Electronics 1519 West 2nd Street Owensboro,KY 42301 270-926-4968 fax 270-686-7399 ------------------------------------------ To REMOVE your email address, click here: http://www.tech-assist.org/unsubb.html To CHANGE your email address, click here: http://www.techassist.net/forms/change.html ------------------------------------------ ***NEW*** Tips Added Instantly!!!*** Submit Repair Tips here: http://www.tech-assist.org/secure/tip/