G2--I had a similar problem and it was a carb issue. Everytime it was warm it stopped running @ stoplights, exiting freeways, etc... So it was one foot on the gas-one on the brake. The bus was new to me but I had already tuned up the ignition. So I removed the carb and it was in really bad shape. Bought a rebuilt carb out of WI, problem solved. Ran like a beast until I blew the oilcooler. I wish I could give you technical advice and sound like a mechanic, but that my best. Jeff sent via iPhone On May 12, 2010, at 5:56 PM, "Denis Dodson" <coocoo@xxxxxxx> wrote: Choke? -----Original Message----- From: tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Gerald Livingston Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 5:52 PM To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [tcb] no idle after warmup 1970 Campmobile Single port engine (1500 or 1600, I know it's a rebuild but no idea of the piston/lift) If the PO of the motor is to be believed then there are about 4000 miles on the rebuild. Roughly 800 by me in the last month or so. Bought the motor 6 years ago and stuck it in storage for future use. When I brought it out to put in the Westy it got: New plugs New wires New rotor New coil New condenser New fuel line New fuel pump Fresh oil (fresh oil again at 120 miles and fresh oil again at 800 miles) Thorough cleaning of the 30/31 PICT carb OK, Maiden voyage was 60 miles each way to a relative's house for Easter weekend. It hiccoughed a couple of times under acceleration probably due to crap in the gas tank. It's never done that again. Next major drive was 320 miles each way to the Texas VW Classic in Fredericksburg, TX. On the way HOME I started having issues with it dying at stop lights unless I kept a foot lightly on the accelerator. I assumed it was an electrical/ignition issue due to the fact that most of the wiring to the aftermarket ignition switch was still "twist-and-tape" and the problem happened when driving at night, in the rain, with everything electrical turned on (lights, wipers, etc). the problem appeared to lessen when I had either the lights or the wipers off --- or maybe that was my imagination. I just finished installing a 3 gauge VDO pod Oil pressure, Oil temp, Volts. I needed to test the install. I have the front pedal pan off for paint and tools scattered about so it was a "carport test". Crank it and let it warm up a while. The gauges work <applause>. It idled fine right after I started it. Including after I kicked the choke off. But, as it warmed up the idle speed started to drop. Before the oil temp gauge even started to register I was having to keep a foot on the pedal to keep it from dying. The VDO oil temp gauge has a low end of 120 F. Using the sump plate sender so actual internal temp is probably a bit over that before it starts to move. Why would it do that only after it's warmed up? Ideas? Thanks, G2