[tcb] Re: DTM Shroud
- From: Will Wood <evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 12:34:30 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
yes, it's the Type 1 DTM. I'll post my experience with it. It's my first
experience with one. I had to do some trimming/fitting to get it where I
needed it, but it seems to work fine. I haven't hooked up my CHT yet to #3 but
I do have a Berg Dipstick temp probe and like I said earlier, oil temps were
very reasonable.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Trey Jung <treyjung@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Apr 3, 2006 12:23 PM
>To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [tcb] DTM Shroud
>
>Will,
>
>Let me know more about the DTM, I've been looking at them for awhile.
>
>Is the one you have for a Type 1?
>
>Trey
>71 Westy
>Houston
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Will Wood" <evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 10:32 AM
>Subject: [SPAM] [tcb] Re: 88mm pistons
>
>
>> Wheelie Bars are for sissies!
>>
>> It's a function of heat and heat dissapation. A bus is pushing a lot of
>> air, plus a lot more weight. You therefore ask the engine to do more
>> work. To compensate we have lower gearing to keep the engine RPMs up and
>> hence get more cooling air over the engine. You can help compensate for
>> lower heat loads by lowering compression but in the end
>> it's that little fan that does all the work. Too tall of gearing, too
>> much advance in the engine or missing tin/seals will all lead to an
>> overheat. Once those barrels warp, they stay warped. I've built a lot of
>> bus engines with 90.5s and have very high service life with them, the
>> walls are thicker than 92s but compared to 94s, they're identical. The
>> bain of 94s are the amount of distance to the head studs, causing leaks if
>> you don't seal the area properly. The last three engines I've built with
>> 94s, I've put in the copper head gaskets (bugpack et al) and kept the
>> shimming away from the bottom of the barrels, no leaks thus far.
>>
>> I'm also undergoing my first experience with a DTM shroud, I can say that
>> after driving home yesterday after 60 miles I could grab the dipstick
>> comfortably...
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>>From: "Gerald V. Livingston II" <gvl2@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>Sent: Apr 3, 2006 12:32 AM
>>>To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>Subject: [tcb] Re: 88mm pistons
>>>
>>>You can't get a 1914 with 88's. If you really have 88's you have either an
>>>1800 (74 stroke) or a 1900 (78 stroke -- 1897 actually).
>>>
>>>You have to use 94x69 to get a 1915. Super torque motor.
>>>
>>>Here's a table:
>>>
>>>http://www.msgulfcoastvwclub.org/TechPages/Tech6.html
>>>
>>>Here's a calculator:
>>>
>>>http://home.earthlink.net/~jalby/puter.htm
>>>
>>>2387cc Will -- you got wheelie bars on that thing?
>>>
>>>The general idea FOR A BUS is to stay away from sizes that have to have
>>>the
>>>cylinder walls thinned to fit in the bore. That includes 87, thin-wall 88,
>>>92, and for certain applications 90.5. A bus is a completely different
>>>animal from a bug. They just don't cool as well, period. Your brain will
>>>tell you that the thinner cylinder walls can dissipate built up heat
>>>faster
>>>-- well, they can, when the motor isn't running. The fact that there is
>>>less metal there also means that when the motor IS running they get HOT a
>>>whole lot faster than thick wall cylinders. And because there is less
>>>metal
>>>there they will warp easier.
>>>
>>>For a heavy bus go with thick-wall 88's or step up to 94's. 90.5 is OK if
>>>your daily drive doesn't include a lot of hill climbing. The 90.5's are
>>>somewhat thinner than the machine-in 88's but nowhere near as bad as 92's.
>>>
>>>Ronnie in Lake Havasu somehow DOES use 92's to build a bulletproof 1835
>>>for
>>>his own buses. I've seen him load a bus 'til it squats with show sale
>>>parts
>>>then drive it to Jerome (SERIOUS mountain climbing). Of course he probably
>>>does planned teardowns at 50K or something.
>>>
>>>G2
>>>
>>>On Sun, 2 Apr 2006 22:25:45 -0500 Denis Dodson <coocoo@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I don't even know what you just said.
>>>>
>>>> So, what is the formula to figure out the engine size so that we all can
>>>> understand what the hell you just said?
>>>>
>>>> I have a 1914 according to my first builder. I think that is a 74.8X88.
>>>> Or
>>>> 78.4X88
>>>>
>>>> This all started with whether Brian should do someting with his engine
>>>> other
>>>> than 1641.
>>>>
>>>> Dan's bus, Homer, runs very well and strong with a standard 1600. There
>>>> are
>>>> manymany people who swear by 1776s. I know of, at least, one guy who
>>>> loves
>>>> his 1835, although I was warned to stay away because they have a short
>>>> life
>>>> because of the heat.
>>>>
>>>> Chuck, I am surprised that you don't have a problem with the 88 sleeves.
>>>> I
>>>> have been told that they warp because they are too thin for the heat.
>>>>
>>>> When all of you come up for the 4th of July we are going to all fight
>>>> about
>>>> this stuff in person and throw our empty beer cans at each other. The
>>>> tech
>>>> session to beat all tech sessions.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Will Wood" <evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>> To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>> Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 8:37 PM
>>>> Subject: [tcb] Re: 88mm pistons
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> > Wimpy.. I have an FK-8, Pauter Roller Rockers oh, 94 X 86 in my DC..
>>>> >
>>>> > Zoom Zoom.
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> > -----Original Message-----
>>>> > From: tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> From: tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>> > [mailto:tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
>>>> > Of Denis Dodson
>>>> > Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:47 AM
>>>> > To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>> > Subject: [tcb] Re: 88mm pistons
>>>> >
>>>> > so if i have a 'mild" cam, is it an engle 100?
>>>> >
>>>> > ----- Original Message -----
>>>> > From: "Lonnie Bergman" <bergmanfamily@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>> > To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>> > Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 7:14 AM
>>>> > Subject: [tcb] Re: 88mm pistons
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >>I finally got my hands on three used 88 pistons for the motor I had in
>>>> >>my
>>>> >> bus. So I am putting that one back together now. IMHO slip in 88
>>>> >> cylinder
>>>> >> walls are too thin. The machine in 88 walls are very thick. As for
>>>> >> cams,
>>>> >> My
>>>> >> favorite for a bus motor is a scat c25 or engle 100. After my last
>>>> >> experience with a 110, I will probably never put one in a street
>>>> >> motor
>>>> >> again.
>>>> >> The guy I got the used 88s from also had a set of new forged 88s for
>>>> >> a 78
>>>> >> mm
>>>> >> stroker crank. Pistons only for $50.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> -----Original Message-----
>>>> >> From: tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>> From: tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>> >> [mailto:tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
>>>> >> Behalf
>>>> >> Of singlecabboy
>>>> >> Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 11:42 PM
>>>> >> To: tcb
>>>> >> Subject: [tcb] 88mm pistons
>>>> >>
>>>> >> I run 88mm Forged pistons with a 110 engle cam , the
>>>> >> 88's are slip in, I haven't had any trouble ,butttt ,I
>>>> >> think I am extremly lucky , I also change my oil
>>>> >> almost after every trip , 200 miles or more, Bob says
>>>> >> that his theory is that the folks break the bottom of
>>>> >> the skirts as their installing them , butttt, I know I
>>>> >> wouldn't have used 88's if I had read all the horror
>>>> >> stories first. 1776 is what I 'll probably do next ,
>>>> >> with straight cut cam gear , . Good luck , 88's or
>>>> >> rearist of the rare at most shops
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
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