Elias, In one of my books on DIY repair, ;-) it recommends using a camera with known good focus (A) to check and adjust the camera with unknown focus (B). I have used this method. Method: with camera A on a tripod, back open, aperture fully open and shutter open on 'B' and lens focussed at infinity, place a piece glass (I used a piece of perspex) with a very fine hairline cross scratched on it, on the film rails. Camera B is set up a short distance away (not important but up to a couple of metres although image size in camera B is dependant on distance and focal length of lenses used) similarily set-up but with a ground glass screen (again I used perspex having rubbed very fine (>600grit) 'wet & dry' paper over one surface) on the film rails. Position and orientation of Camera B is adjusted so as to see directly into the lens of camera A (i.e. both optical axies are aligned). The cross hair from camera A can now be seen on the ground glass of camera B. It should be in perfect focus if camera B is correctly adjusted. The thoery behind this is that an object in camera A's focal plane will project light rays through the lens of camera A which will be them emerge from the lens as parallel rays (ie focused at infinity). Camera B, if correctly adjusted, will accept parallel rays (from infinity) and focus a sharp image at the focal plane. I am not a camera repair man nor do I have optical training but I have used this to check a secondhand Rollei 35S which had been dropped by the previous owner. The image size on a piece of glass in the back of a 35mm camera is small and not easy to check. 6x6 is easier. Possibly by projecting light through the back of camera A would improve critical inspection. Failing that I am still looking for a collimeter for just a few £s. :-) If camera B focus does 'not quite' turn to infinity then you will not be able to accurately check unless the focus stop is loosened so the lens can be turned past the infinity point and back again until the image is 'pin-sharp'. I hope this is not too complicated. Another method (if you definitely know it is out of focus) is to adjust the focus stop so that it could turn past infinity and put a sticky label on the focus ring with close numbered graduations on it. I then set the camera up on a tripod with film loaded and took a number of shots of a suitable land mark as far away as possible, adjusting the lens focus slightly to the next graduation between each shot. When inspecting the negatives, it becomes apparent which is the sharpest image(s)and the lens can be turned to that graduation(s) and locked off. However neither of these will tell you if the lens elements have not been accurately adjusted in assembly (Friday afternoon) or damaged through impact, so it may never give a really sharp image as it is. In which case it will have to be sent off to a competant repairman for overhaul. ;-) Good luck....... Happy New Year John -----Original Message----- From: rollei_list-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:rollei_list-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of eroustom@xxxxxxxxxxx Sent: 29 December 2006 18:31 To: rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [rollei_list] Re: Zeiss Ikoflex Lens Issue Richard, that's the generous spirit that defines the best of email user groups! To check focus on a camera I was playing with, I took a clean thin sheet of tracing paper and afixed in the place the film would be, with the back open - with a towel over the back of the camera and my head, and the shutter locked open (B and cable), I could see pretty much what the film would "see". Is there a better, less silly way to do it? Elias --- Rollei List - Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx - Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org - Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org - Online, searchable archives are available at //www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list