How much did Harry charged you? Im looking to send him a Rolleicord to overhaul
but im scared of his prices.
No dia 21/02/2017, às 21:46, `Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
escreveu:
I have a 2.8E bought many years ago. Looked clean but turned out to be a
beater. Took it to Harry and had it overhauled. Came out like new and still
works after at least ten years. The Xenotar is extremely sharp. There
has always been some controversy over whether the Xenotar or Planar was the
best lens but I think mostly its imagination although the lens designs are
not identical.
On 2/21/2017 12:13 PM, Jan Decher wrote:
Hi Javier,
My main reasons for getting an F would be the simpler single zone (and
probably more reliable) Gossen meter and the removable hood…
I had an 2.8E Planar (1959) in the early 90s and it was definitely
beginning to show its age. My 3.5E (Xenotar) seems much more solid (or not
as abused).
Jan
On Feb 21, 2017, at 8:05 PM, Javier Herraiz <javier.herraiz@xxxxxxx
<mailto:javier.herraiz@xxxxxxx>> wrote:
After many years as a silent subscriber of Rollei list I dare to write a
post looking for some advice.
I’m in the market for a Rolleiflex 2.8F. For financial reasons I’m looking
for a camera with a Xenotar lens, that I assume it can be bought cheaper
than those fitted with Planars. For the same reason I’m also looking for
older versions, dating around 1960-1962.
But I have read somewhere that very early F models had a special linkage
between the shutter speed wheel and the shutter, something similar, but not
the same that EV number system in Rolleiflex E models. This part would be
complicated, and hence speed wheel hard to operate and prone to fail. Does
anyone know if this is true? If it is, should these cameras be avoided?
When was this feature changed to the regular F version?
Your knowledge would be of great help. Thank you very much.
Javier
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
WB6KBL
