Hello, and thanks for the information. Now I know why the S.S. is in there.
You mention adding a 1ml of Rodinal for every roll developed. What would be the equivalent in sheet film, either 4x5 or 8x10?
Thanks again. Cheers, Bogdan On 17/07/2012 10:19 PM, Gerald Koch wrote:
--- On *Wed, 7/18/12, Bogdan Karasek /<BKarasek@xxxxxxxxxxxx>/* wrote: The first time I saw a mention of adding sodium sulfite to Rodinal was in an article by Bill Pierce entitled "Rodinal Rejiggered" which appeared in Popular Photography Sept. 1966. Which says, "If Rodinal is diluted with a solution of 75 g/l of anhydrous sodium sulfite the keeping properties are greatly improved. The sulfite acts as a preservative and also dissolves some silver halide to improved the grain. Used in this manner Rodinal sulfite becomes a medium fine-grain developer producing brilliant prints with very clean highlights. Diluted 1:100 with sulfite Rodinal may be used as a tank developer. Replenish with 1 ml of Rodinal for each roll of film developed. The replenished solution keeps for 1 month." In my experience the development times are a bit shorter than for the same dilution without the sulfite. I haven't done this for many, many years but routinely used this method for 120 film after reading the article. Jerry From: Bogdan Karasek <BKarasek@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Adding Sodium Sulfite to Rodinal and Developer exhaustion. To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wednesday, July 18, 2012, 12:33 AM Hello, I am developing some 4x5 Efke 25. and i want to use Rodinal 1+100. The "Massive Dev Chart" gives a time for 11minutes for 120 film. What time should I use for 4x5? Also, there is a caveat. I have to add 1 tbsp of Sodium Sulfite per 500ml. What role does the Sodium Sulfite play in the solution? Related to that, i am developing the sheet film in 6L tanks that can hold 4 film racks with each rack holds 4 sheets, so 16 sheets developed in 6L of Rodinal 1+100. Will the developer be exhausted after 1 development or can I do a second round of 16 sheets. I'm just getting used to the idea of mixing 6L of developer, stop and fixer. It's when I get to the 16L Kodak tanks that the fun will start. Am I better off using the 16L tanks? Problem is that when I shoot still life and macro in the studio, I'll shoot the same item in 4x5 for possible enlarging and 8x10 for contact printing, so I need to have tanks for 8x10. The same questions applies if I am using 6L of D-76 1+1? I used to do my developing my sheets film developing using the Ansel Adams 5 card shuffle in trays, but now that I am also starting to shoot more 4x5 and am also starting in on 8x10.. So I decided that using the racks for 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 would be faster as I can process more film. Any comments and suggestions are welcome. Cheers, Bogdan ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.