[guide.chat] basket weaving

  • From: vanessa <qwerty1234567a@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: "GUIDE CHAT" <guide.chat@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2012 22:04:43 +0100

Basket Weaving
One of the main points to remember in basket making is that the cane should 
never be worked dry, for in doing so it's capabilities and qualities are 
sacrificed. It may be necessary to soak the cane for a short time to straighten 
it, but could be sufficient enough to pass it through water and allow it to lie 
a few minutes before using. Dampen the cane again as it becomes dry during the 
working. It is important that the following hints should be carefully studied 
before proceeding to the practical work, so that they can be applied as 
required.
The beginner is advised to start with a plywood base, as they are able to 
master the various strokes and the correct way of using their fingers. To give 
extra strength to the bottom of a basket, when commencing to weave the sides, 
the first three rows of weaving cane can be a little thicker than that used for 
the general weaving and thinner than that used for the stakes.
When making a round basket with a cane base, after the stakes have been bent up 
and shaped for the sides it is helpful for a beginner to place a ring of cane 
over the stakes so that they rest inside it, thus preventing the natural 
tendency for them to spread outwards. This ring can be removed when the stakes 
have been set in position by the weaving.
Where a plywood base is used there is always a tendency at the beginning of the 
weaving to draw the work in. It is therefore advisable to press the stakes 
outwards slightly to prevent this.
QUANTITIES
An approximation of the amount of cane in each 500g bundle
Size 3 (2mm dia) 70 to 75 lengths per bundle of 5-9ft lengths.
Size 6 (2.625 dia) 45-50 lengths per bundle of 5-9ft lengths.
Size 8 (3mm dia) 35-40 lengths per bundle of 5-9ft lengths
Staking cane ? the most suitable from our range is size 8, which gives a tight 
fit to our bases.
Weaving ? Size 3 & size 6 dependent on the pattern.
The ends of the cane should not be cut off until the work is finished, and care 
should be taken not to cut them too short.
Weaving
 
Place the end of a length of cane between two stakes with the end pointing 
inside to the left. Pass this in front of one stake, and behind one, until the 
row is complete. If there is an odd number of stakes, the weaving can be 
continued with the same cane in the next row, and onwards to the required 
depth. Where the cane passes in front of the stakes in the first row, it will 
pass behind these in the next row, and so on.
Adding a new length of cane
Leave the remaining end of the used length of cane inside, pointing to the 
right, place the new end over this ina crosswise position pointing inside to 
the left. As the work proceeds these ends will be made quite secure and can be 
cut off quite close to the work.
Borders
Many amateurs who enjoy making baskets find that their real difficulty lies in 
working the border. The stakes must all be thoroughly damp and pliable before 
starting to work. To make a firm border the stakes must not be arranged too far 
apart. 2 or 3 rows of walling should be worked with cane a size less than the 
stakes, before bordering, to strengthen the shape of the basket, so that it 
will not easily be altered during the working of the border. All borders should 
be worked from left to right.
Simple Scallop or open border

Each stake is bent over and inserted by the side of the next but one stake, 
passing it in front of the intermediate stake each time. The loops should be 
25mm deep and of uniform shape. To ensure this, make one loop, first inserting 
the cane well down the basket, and then measure the length required. Cut off 
all the stakes to this measurement, point the ends for inserting and proceed 
with the border.
Foot Border
The foot border is worked first. Beginning at the nearest edge with the 3 «? 
portion of the stakes pointing away from the worker, bend a stake down and pass 
it behind the next stake and before two others, leaving the end on the inside. 
Treat the second stake in the same manner as the first, and continue in this 
way until there are only three stakes left standing upright. These must be 
woven into the first three stakes of the border, which are eased up to allow 
for this, carefully following the pattern to make an invisible join. When this 
has been done, pull the stakes from the top side of the base to tighten the 
border and to make it even.


from
Vanessa The Google Girl.
my skype name is rainbowstar123

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