G'day ALL ...
As promised yesterday, this is the beginning of a 5-part account of
growing up in Greymouth, NZ in the 1860s as seen through the eyes of an
8 year-old who came ashore with his mum, brother and sisters.
My Eli Hellier and his brother George were there too as would have been
Eli's wife and his 3 Bendigo-born kids, another born in Dunedin and
three more who were born in Greymouth. The last to be born was our
California correspondent, Herbert, who was born in 1871.
Since my g-grandfather was born in 1860, he would have been a year
younger than our new correspondent.
I've done my best transcribing and proof-reading the accounts and hope
others find the reading easy going and captivating.
The Grey River Argus carried the yarn in 1913 over the period of
December 3, 4, 6, 8 & 9 and I'll spin them out for the rest of the week.
If people are offended by the amount of reading, they have every right
to delete the messages but I hope those who persevere will find the
experience edifying.
Cheers, and enjoy ... ROB!
rnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx
----< Grey River Argus, 3 December 1913, page 7 >----->
GREYMOUTH IN THE SIXTIES: EARLY IMPRESSIONS
My first impression of Geymouth was a lasting one. With my mother,
brother and sisters I left the good ship Airedale in the roadsted about
3rd January, 1867 and embarked on board the P.S. Persevere bound for the
bar and the new Elderado. Those who remember her will recollect the
Persevere was a very small craft and low in the water. Although the day
was beautifully fine and the bar comparatively smooth an occasional bit
of a roller would tumble aboad. I had never experienced anything of the
kind that I remembered during my eight years' career, and expected the
boat and all hands were going to 'Davey Jones'. I made enough row to
wake the dead. Once over the bar the scene of the river in full flood
tide, with the golden sheen of the summer sun, and the immense number of
lovely seabirds flying about, was to me like a scene in fairyland.
In 1867 the wharf ran from about opposite the Custom House to the oId
Post office which was about 50 yards above the Custom House. The rest of
the river bank to the bar was quite unprotected, and nearly all the
vessels consisting of fore and aft schooners moored along the river
bank, put out planks and discharged cargo and passengers. This they
could easily do as the river was quite deep close to the shore.
Being a youngster I was if anything, more eager to get ashore than the
adults and was not long in doing so. I remember with what wonder I
looked upon everything so new and novel, the immense number of diggers
and others about the quays and all young men and women or mostly so.
Indeed, I do not remember to have seen what is termed an old person for
years afterwards. To my childish mind everyone seemed to have plenty of
money and spending it in pubs particularly.
The chief attire of the men was a Crimean shirt, soft billy-cock hat,
moleskin pants and knee boots. Such things as white shirts, collars,
etc., were never seen, even at church, balls, etc., for years
afterwards. I remember the first white collar being worn by some joker,
the diggers bought all the white collars (they were only paper then)
that were available and decorated the dogs with them. That finished
white collars for a long time. Sunday rig consisted of billy-cock hat,
Crimean shirt, red or green, silk sash, black peg-top pants and
high-heeled elastic side boots. With women the crinoline was in full
swinq and what awful things they were, like a large balloon.
At the time of my arrival the town consisted of that part from the
quarry to Blaketown lagoon. There were no houses whatever on the other
side of what was then Tidal Creek. Beyond the latter was all dense bush.
Pigeon and kaka shooting was done no further away than where the Public
Hall or Opera House now stands. Mawhera and Richmond Quays were the only
decent thoroughfares and these even were full of large tree stumps.
None but foot passengers could travel Mackay Street as it was full of
stumps and water holes. There were other streets beyond that save in
name. The first street at the top of the town was Custom-house street.
This consisted of a few canvas tents chiefly occupied by boatmen (men
who manned the cargo boats taking goods up country). There was quite a
town ship of huts on the beach part opposite where the present railway
station is situated, all occupied by boatmen, mostly Greeks. The next
street, Waite, consisted of a few wooden shanties. In the next, Werita
Street, were no houses at all, the first 5s 8d foundry was erected there
some time afterwards behind the Bank of Australasia and was occupied by,
I think, a gentleman called Rees, who sold out to the late W. H.
Parkins. The site is now occupied by Mr M. Hannan's office. In the next,
Tainui Street, on the eastern side, were the late Dr. P. Smith's surgery
and one large store on high piles, as that part was mostly swamp. On the
western side were Martin Kennedy's store, part of Gilmer and Sweeney's
hotel, a barber shop kept by an American negro, Harrison's Hotel (father
of Andrew Harrison of Nelson Creek). Martin Kennedy's (Black Martin)
stables, and the hospital (afterwards converted into the Post Office.)
The next, Albert Street; consisted of the late Dr. Morice's surgery.
Glenn Bros.' store and bonded warehouse and McKinty's Hotel; opposite
where the Church of England now stands lived the Coys and Marrons, down
near the creek was old Wilson's boatshed and one or two shanties (I must
not forget old Bradley the milkman, opposite Wilson's). Many a cargo,
coal and other kind of boat old Wilson built there. There was nothing
across the creek save bush.
About three or four years later the present "Bill Arnott" carpenter,
built a dwelling there. It was the first building across the creek at
Albert Street. The next, Boundary Street, was merely a water course,
save where it had been partly constructed for traffic. A foot bridge
about seven feet high crossed it from Mawhera Quay.
About 1869 the roadway was formed across this part, and another road
was, with a large culvert, constructed about this time across Boundary
St. and Mackay Street. Prior to this at spring tides the water came up
Boundary Street and met the water of the river. Boundary Street was then
a large lake and the waters flooded all the land between Arney Street,
the eastern side of Boundary Street and Gresson Street. Plenty of fish
came up with the tide and we used even to catch whitebait in and about
Boundary Street. The next street, Johnston St., was one of the busiest
streets in the town. Nearly the whole of the traffic came down Richmond
Quay by Johnston Street to Gresson Street. The latter was hardly
passable save in fine weather being most swamp and stumps. The traffic
to Arney Street went chiefly down Richmond Quay, which was then a very
busy thoroughfare. Johnston Street contained three pubs besides one at
the corner of Gresson St., and another at the corner of Richmond and
Mawhera Quays. One pub the "Montezuma" was kept by a typical
Irish-American, Dan Lynch. It was there I saw my first and only Red
Indian. Dan was married to one and she was very good looking.
The next street was Druey Street. This was the most aristocratic part of
the town. Another aristocratic part was along Mackay Street between
Albert and Boundary streets. Arney Street contained one pub besides one
at the corner of Richmond Quay and another at the corner of Gresson St.
In Mackay Street, there were two or three houses opposite Werita St.
From Werita Street to Tainui Street on the south side, was occupied by
Maori pahs. Old Greyites will recollect, most of the Maoris - old
Tainui, his daughter-in-law and son, Albert and his wife, old Betty,
Taiaroa and others.
The pah was on the present site of the Masonic Hall. The Maoris had
other pahs up at the foot of the quarry and another which is now the
present Victoria Park.
St Patrick's day was a gala day for them. The races were held then and
they all attended. The woman dressed in flaming silks and satins. Most
of them in the spring and summer time journeyed to the Arahura or
Kaiapoi and gradually left, save for an occasional visit by one or two
of them, but they eventually ceased altogether. Their last visit was on
the occasion of the removal of their dead from the burial ground at the
quarry to the head of the lagoon. The burial ground at the quarry was in
a large cave through which a stream of water flowed. No one was ever
able to ascertain where the water came from. The bodies were laid on
shelves around the cave. When the Government intimated they intended to
take the quarry (including the burial ground) there was the devil to
pay, as anything pertaining to the dead is in Maori "tapu" or sacred.
However, the Maori, like his pakeha brother is susceptible to a little
palm oil and the way was smoothed, the bodies all being taken away. I
have often thought what a harvest could have been made of greenstone and
other Maori relics. Although I never took a squint at any of the
remains, I am satisfied the cave must have been very rich in them, but
pounamu in those days was about as valuable as a bit of glass.
At the corner of Mackay and Albert Street a bit of a footpath about
three feet high which ran to nothing towards Boundary Street was built
up. All the rest of Mackay Street was swamp or water holes, and stumps.
In Hospital Street the first dwelling was old Jannie Brimble's which
stood on the bank of Tidal Creek near Tainui Street. There were one or
two shanties further along but that was all. There was no Leonard
Street. McLean's store was the only place in what was afterwards part of
the corner of Leonard Street. Between McLean's store and Arney Street
bridge along Boundary Street was all bush, and in '67 was occupied by an
immense number of diggers' tents.
With other youngsters the writer delighted in getting there at dusk when
the fires were going and billies boiling. The place was thick with
supple-jacks, and fires were easily made and kept going.
The first church was the Roman Catholic, in Arney Street, Father Roid.
He was there for years, never rode a horse or in a conveyance while on
his journeys, but always walked. He regularly visited every diggins
through out the district. There were no roads or bridges, and he had to
wade all rivers and creeks. None but the diggers and those on the
diggings can have the least idea of the dangers and miles of weary
travelling he risked and did in order to attend to the spiritual wants
of his flock of sheep, goats, and wolves (and there were many of each).
Other denominations held their services in the old Town Hall in Gresson
Street. I often heard the yarn that before any places of worship were
erected or available some parsons held their services in the "Victoria"
dance room, then two doors from the present Commercial Hotel. There was
no hotel there then, the site was occupied by a barber's shop. The late
Gerald Perotti built the hotel afterwards and the congregation could
listen to the parson and also hear what was going on behind the drop
sceen on the stage, where the boys were having a flutter, and their
language was at times very lurid.
The first school was also the R. C. in connection with the Church. The
master, or rather the chief one, was an old Frenchman (I never knew his
name) and his lieutenant named Woods. As far as teaching was concerned
they were the greatest frauds imaginable. A younster would be under them
his life time and I doubt if he would learn his alphabet. I knew old
Woods personally for years afterwards, and he was about as ignorant a
man as you could find.
A school was afterwards started in the Town Hall. It had a very good
attendance and was far in advance of the other, save on one occasion
when it was presided over by a man named Warren. His hobby was nursery
rhymes. He would teach these to the younsters all day long, and little
else, and made them bawl their lessons out in unison. He was undeniably
"dotty."
Education was very much below par and it was not until the late T.
Thomas took the matter in hand that things improved, and they did
wonderfully. He was a born schoolmaster and understood youngsters from A
to Z. He started school in an old store in Arney Street, but afterwards
built a school on the present site of the municipal buildings.
One who took the greatest interest in the rising generation was the late
Rev. G. T. Watkins, Anglican clergyman. There was nothing bigoted or
assuming about him. He treated all alike, and was the most charitable
man I ever knew, not only in matters of religion but financially. He
gave his all to others and many took a very mean advantage of his
disposition. He was a bachelor and had a very old housekeeper named
"Sarah." She was in disposition, the reverse of His Reverence. As sour
as acetic acid and a face like a razor edge. There was continual warfare
between them on account of his excess in charity. Many a time he gave
away his dinner and took merely a snack.
I remember on one occasion old Sarah prepared an excellent Christmas
dinner and the Rev. Watkins when he got to the Manse after his Christmas
service was called upon by a certain member of his congregation, who
woefully complained of her poverty and lack of Christmas cheer. He
packed up his Christmas dinner and gave it to her.
This particular female and family for years posed as some of Greymouth's
hall-marked aristocrats and she was the greatest sponger and hypocrite
imaginable.
State school boys, of course, know all about the "Watkins' medal." This
was the result of the interest the Rev. Mr Watkins took in education.
How many of those who made money in Greymouth have left such a name and
reputation as he?
There was also another school kept by Miss Fosbury in Mackay Street two
or three doors above McLean's store. This was quite an exclusive
institution and was attended by the blue-blooded aristocratic daughters
of Greymouth's nobility. Miss Fosbury hailed from the land of "Pothen
and Potatoes." She ws a regular heroine. After Miss Fosbury gave up the
business the school was continued by Miss Jennings, who afterwards
married R. J. Johnston the late, and for many years town engineer. When
Miss Jennings succumbed to the inevitable, the school was continued by
Mrs George in Arney Street.
The State School started in 1876 and knocked other schools out of existence.
Drs. Morice and Smith were the only medical men in those days. Dr.
Morice lived in Albert Street, about the fourth house down. There was no
building at Hallenstein's corner for a long time after. You could not
mistake the Doctor's sign for he had it painted on the roof in letters
about five feet high. About 1870 he removed to his late premises,
Mawhera Quay.
Dr. Smith first lived in Tainui St. just behind the present Bank of New
Zealand. He afterwards removed his surgery to Mawhera Quay about three
doors above the then Bank of New Zealand (the bank at that time was in
Mawhera Quay next to its present site). He was known as "Paddy the
Quack," why, I nor anyone else ever knew. I remember a case being heard
in Greymouth many years ago, all the medical men in and about Greymouth
and elsewhere were called as witness. Old "Paddy Smith" amongst the rest.
The crowd thought they were going to have some fun when Paddy was
called, as on account of the nick-name it was the general opinion that
he really was a quack, and would be unable to produce any diploma or
evidence of his right to practice.
Everyone was thunderstruck as he produced diplomas of a far higher grade
than the other medicos.
<----< To be continued. >----
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Genealogy: Tracing yourself back to better people
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