'morning ALL ...
I hope you're ready for the next enthralling installment of the
life-and-times of gold rush Greymouth from the 1860s & 70s ... there was
certainly a lot of support for the mining effort!
Like the NLA's Trove, the NZ national library has a service called
'PapersPast' and the link for this series of articles is:
https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers?phrase=2&query=greymouth+in+the+sixties&start_date=1913-11-10&end_date=1913-12-10
I've had a chat with their service manager and apart from congratulating
them on their service, bemoaned the fact that unlike Trove, they don't
offer a service for volunteers to make corrections to the automatic text
generated for each article.
Anyway, here goes with the next installment which our general All can
either read or ignore:
----< Grey River Argus, 4 December 1913, page 7 >---->
GREYMOUTH IN THE SIXTIES: (Continued).
The late Dr. Acheson loomed up about 1871. Another Dr., little known or
heard of in Greymouth, and many old diggers will no doubt remember him,
"Dr. Gratten," a relation of the celebrated Henry Gratten. The Doctor
for some reason chose a hermits life and lived and died such. He was
always, despite his infirmities, ready at any moment to assist or attend
those requiring medical skill, and this was a very difficult matter to
get in the days I speak of, because there were no roads, railways, etc.,
and a journey to Greymouth for medical and meant two or three days delay.
Many a man, woman and child owe their lives to poor old Gratten. No one
ever knew his history, and he had no confidant.
One peculiar incident happened at his death. He requested that a certain
packet of papers which he described, be buried with him. This, of
course, was reverently done; but none ever knew their contents.
The Justice Department consisted of magistrate and police with the usual
accessories. The late Mr Horton Revell was Magistrate and Warden. His
first court was held at what was then and probably now is, known as
Revell's camp, the strip between the Hospital and lagoon down to
Sawyer's Creek. This, about 1865 was all worked by the miners. Why they
never went into and along the terrace is a mystery as it is all black
sand and full of gold. They left this and went back along Marsden Road way.
The late Mr Harry Kenrick was the clerk of Court and "old Gourley"
bailiff. A son of Mr Kenrick is now S.M. in the North Island. Mr Tom
Kenrick some years afterwards became Warden's clerk. Mr Harry Kenrick
was appointed a Magistrate.
The legal profession was represented by a firm in Werita Street named
"Rees." The late W. H. Perkins purchased the practice from him. The next
on the scene was the late Sir Arthur Guinness. He hung out his shingle
opposite the old Court House (now or late County Chambers) but
afterwards shifted camp to an office in "Plucis Buildings" in Tainui
Street. The third in the field was Mr W. H. Newton, now of Timaru. He
built the first house in Mount Street.
The police force was under the charge of Inspector James. The rank and
file consisted of Constable Keating (about 6ft. 6in. high). Big Mac.
Flanagan, Cashion (Dublin Dick)' Lodge and Sergeant Moller. The latter
was trooper and a fine specirmen of the cavalry officer. The man with
his horse and assistants was a perfect model and a pleasure to look at.
The sergeant had a fine figure, was very handsome, and would have looked
well in anything. In those days "the byes" were very much in evidence
and the sight of a bobby was to most of them, like a red rag to a bull,
and were to the knife, and ructions innumerable were the result.
One giant from the land of Saints was "Big Jack Whelan." He got "Dublin
Dick" on one occasion and gave him the "divil of a bating," for which
Jack was duly tried and jugged. Physically the force were fine men, but
some of them were awful wasters.
There were 42 pubs in full swing besides numberless sly grog shops, two
licensed dance houses, and besides these any pub could run the dance
business and many availed themselves of this means of earning an honest
crust. Regular dance girls not being available, the lady friends of Mrs
and Mr Pub were invited, and the invite was always accepted. As a matter
of fact the invite was a standing one and duly responded to. Their were
three pubs in Cobden and three or four in what was then known as the
North Spit, about where the present north breakwater is. At that time
there was quite a large township there. The principal hotel (the
Melbourne) was kept by old Jamie Johnston. It stood on the present site
of Kettle Bros.' store. The next in importance was Gilmer and Sweeney's,
afterwards Gilmer Bros. The Wharf Hotel near Custom House Street was
kept by Jamie Middelton with Gilbert Stewart as chief mate, two of the
finest men ever created. The Union near the Bank of New Zealand was kept
by "Joe Kilgour." Shecup and McKinty's are of course well known to the
present generation. The present site of the Bank of New Zealand was
occupied by a pub owned by old Coutauche (grandfather of Andrew
Harrison, of Nelson Creek). One of the employees is the progenitor of
some of Greymouth's high-toned aristocracy.
The Cosmopolitan was kept by Daddy Maxwell, a typical Yankee from
Boston, and a real white man. When he left home an old Darkey "Pap," a
servant of the family, insisted on following the fortunes of his master
and went with him all over the Californian, Australian and New Zealand
goldfields. Old Pap died in the Grey Hospital. His great desire for
years was to get back to the States. The present Albion Hotel was kept
by "Tonks and Hughes." They also had the Empire at Westport. They
dissolved partnership, Tommy Tonks retaining the Albion and Hughes the
Empire, which they respectfully ran for many years. Tonks for many years
ran a "Tat" on the Melbourne Cup and it was patronised from all parts of
Australia and New Zealand. The Gaming Act killed it. The late T. B.
Waters for some time had the Union Hotel and subsequently the Albion.
The White Horse was first run by the late Jas. Taylor, of Preston Road.
In connection with this hotel was a bowling alley and shooting gallery
kept by old Joe Croft.
The Burgess, Sullivan, Levy and Kelly gang were then on the warpath, and
old Joe got wind that they intended to raid his shooting gallery. He
thereupon removed all the guns to a private residence where they
remained for a considerable time.
The Club was first kept by Daddy Hunt who let it to Jack Bulstrode. When
Jack's time was up, I think it was taken by Louis Seebeck. Hunt
afterwards retook possession and ran it till his demise. Ashton's, The
Hibernian and the Commercial were three of the many hotels then catering
for the public and are no doubt remembered by many of the present old
Greyites. The Lake Wakatipu was in Richmond Quay and kept by Bill King
and the Mrs. They were both noted for their pounds avoirdupoise. The
next down Richmond Quay was the Canadian, kept by Carry Pope. Then
further along the Royal, kept by J. A. Whall (for years afterwards Town
Clerk). He sold out to Jamie Howie. The latter afterwards took the
Masonic at the corner of Waite Street, formerly kept by Bill Clarke. Old
Dan Buggy kept the Niagara in Johnston Street. There was another shanty
close to it but it only lasted a short time. Almost opposite the Niagara
was the Montezuma, which I have before mentioned. This also ran a
bowling alley. At the corner of Richmond Quay and Johnston Street was
the Golden Eagle, kept by Jamie Cattle. Poor Jamie was done to death at
Arney St. bridge and his body thrown into the lagoon. There was a
one-eyed hostel down near Arney Street, kept by Mat Callen, an
ex-detective. At the corner of Arney St. and the Quay was the Cove of
Cork, presided over by Geo. Martin. He afterwards became a skipper and
was drowned at sea. Below Arney Street were two or three hotels, one,
the European, kept by the late Gerard Mueller, tobacconist. At the end
of Richmond Quay were several buildings built up on piles about five or
six feet high. The tide used to run under them from the lagoon in a
large natural gutter or water course, which was the chief bathing place
for the very small youngsters who could not swim.
The Old Man flood of 1872 took Richmond Quay, from Johnston Street down,
over the bar and ruined every street in the town. Houses, with the smoke
in many instances coming out of the chimneys, cats and fowls on them,
and cattle, horses, pigs etc., were seen going down the river. Such an
enormous quantity of trees and timber went over the bar that it formed a
barricade or crown on the beach fully 12 feet high and as many through.
When it got dry youngsters and others used to set fire to it and
enormous fires burned day and night for many a long day afterwards.
Mixed with the timber were pianos, and household qoods and furniture of
all kinds. This was the most disastrous flood that ever happened in
Greymouth or perhaps ever will happen.
Westport at the same time was clean wiped off the map by the Buller river.
The first chemist was the late J. W. Parkinson. He gave it up and went
into the bookselling, etc. This he carried on for many years on Mawhera
Quay, two doors below Albert Street, with "Bob" as first lieutenant.
Another of the staff was Bill Dale, a relative of the firm's who
remained for many years and then went to Melbourne. There was another
stationer's shop next door to the "Old Ship" at the corner of the Quay
and Albert Street, and it was kept by Peter Shannon (brother-in-law of
the late John Bourke Roche). Shannon sold out to one, Bayliss, the
latter re-sold to John Bourke Roche. Bayliss went to Reefton and ran
papers, etc., for years.
The first paper published was of course the "Argus.'' The proprietors
were the late Jas. Kerr, John Arnott, and Jack Keogh. The latter did not
remain long. He sold out to the others. The chief editor was, if I
remember rightly, Allen F. Stark. The chair was afterwards filled by the
late W. H. Harrison (father of mine host Charley, late of Wellington)
who for some time represented the Grey in the House of Representatives,
and was during his editorial career credited with being the ablest man
in that particular line in the Colony. After the decease of Mr Harrison,
the gap was for a short time filled by Mr. Apted, who could take any
position in the printing line from the "devil" to editor, and often did.
He would never see the office "stuck," and was one of the finest men who
ever handled a "stick" and one of the chief "stays" of the Argus until
his decease. The editorial mantle was shortly after Mr Harrison's
decease, placed upon the shoulders of Mr Florence McCarthy, whom
everybody knows. Mr. Arnott, when about 20 years old was advised by his
medical attendant to "get" as the only chance of seeing this world for
the next six months. He "got" to Dunedin where he was engaged at his
profession and afterwards went to the Coast, and with the others started
the "Argus." Instead of dying at 20 he lived to over 70. Doctors are not
infallible.
The next paper "The Star" was started by "Snyder" Brown with three sons,
Monte (the second name I have forgotten) and George. Monte the son, was
afterwards well known all over New Zealand as advance agent in the
theatrical line. The Brown's sold out to Alex Reid, from Hokitika, a
very pronounced Scotchman (particularly the pronounced.) I never heard
Scotch pronounced with such vim. Alex was great on Shakespeare and gave
recitations at the Volunteer Hall, which, could he have heard them,
would have made Shakespeare turn up his toes. From Reid the "Star"
passed into the hands of Joe Petrie with Jack as runner up. The "Star"
first emerged from a little bit of an office in Waite Street and the
press was about the size of a mangle. I remember it had on top an
immense "Golden Eagle" with outspread wings.
Of all those who in those days were connected with either paper, I think
Harry Brimble and Tom Coy are the only survivors. Tom is in Western
Australia, and Harry is still in the Grey. The rest have all passed the
Great Divide. Another well-known member of the "Argus" staff was Jamie
Black. He was bookkeeper and general jactotum. He died many years ago
and his position was for years afterwards occupied by "Bot Wilson."
The auctioneering business was represented by Donald McLean, who
migrated to Timaru. The late Davy Girdwood was his clerk and took over
the business in partnership with the late Billy Lahman. Their premises
adjoined the Wharf (now the Royal) Hotel.
Auction sales were chiefly of cattle which came from Wanganui per s.s.
Wallabi (old Captain Lees) and the St. Kilda. The latter did not reman
long in the trade, but the Wallabi and her skipper were better know than
Bill Massey. Connected with the Wanganui cattle trade was Jack Seaton
(of Seaton and Davidson). Jack spent the best part of his life in
Greymouth and Westport looking after the business whilst Davidson
attended to the cattle raising and buying at Wanganui.
The sale yards were in Boundary Street, near the end of the police
paddock and it was quite a field day for the youngsters to get on top of
the yards and watch the fun with the wild cattle and all Greymouth was
out when the Wallabi or St. Kilda arrived to watch the cattle being
landed. They were slung over the side and swam ashore where they were
looked after by the numerous stock and boat men in attendance. The
cattle were extremely wild and many had very narrow escapes from them.
In the early days the cattle were landed at the point where the river
and lagoon join. The landing place was shortly afterwards shifted to the
river beach opposite to the present railway station. For a considerable
time they were landed on the river bank near Johnston Street. When the
cattle were slipped from the slings boatmen were always in attendance to
head them for the right shore, many of the cattle, sheep and pigs would
make for Cobden shore and often got away into the bush.
The drapery business was represented by J. S. M. Thompson (afterwards
Smith and Thompson, and later Thompson, Smith and Barkley). The premises
then adjoined the Bank of New South Wales. The next was John Manson and
Co. (now Gittos) managed by Mr Francis Kout, who died about 1884. The
next was F. and G. F. Bullen, afterwards W. Kilgour (Fred's pater). The
shop stood on the present site of Perkins's stationer shop. The next was
Thomas and McBeath. The next was Skoglund and Purcell (afterwards G.
Purcell), at the corner of Johnston St. and the Quay.
Ironmongers were McLean Bros, and Rigg of Melbourne, with E. Masters as
manager, who afterwards purchased the business. He died in 1881. Mrs.
Masters and R. Forsyth afterwards carried on the business in
partnership. Another firm was Morris Levy, late of Reefton. His premises
were at the corner of Richmond Quay and Boundary Street.
Butchers were Hildebrand and Webber on Richmond Quay, one door below
Johnston Street. Gus Hildebrand carried on the business for many years
on his own. At his decease it was acquired by the present holder, Mr
Jesse Steer. The next was the London Butchery, conducted by Wallace
Woolfe, at the corner of Boundary and Mackay Streets. The third business
was Isaac O'Donnell near Waite Street afterwards conducted by "Bill Morris."
Theatres, etc. were as plentiful as mushrooms. The first in importance
was Joe Kilgour's in the Union Hotel. This, for years was the chief
theatre. The next was at the corner of Mawhera Quay and Albert Street
and was kept by Old Jack Harris, an Israelite. It was also used as a
free and easy in connection with the hotel. There was no charge for
admission, and any one was at liberty to contribute a song or other
item, and waiters were in attendance to provide liquid refreshments to
those requiring them. Needless to say there were more refreshments than
items. The place was afterwards taken by one, Morgan, a Welsh harper,
and one of the finest players who ever left the land of the leek. Some
very fine singers frequented these free and easies, well-educated young
fellows who left home in search of fortune and adventure, and thought
they were likely to find the philosophers stone in the new Eldorado.
Needless to say they were disappointed. There were two regular dance
houses. Each had a large stage but I never saw anything but dancing
carried on, the stages being utilised by the orchestras. The chief dance
house "The Victoria" was first run by an old Frenchman and his wife.
When the Franco-German war started they packed up and off to the
Fatherland. The house was then taken over by Ben Gough. The next dance
was in Boundary Street about six doors from the Commercial Hotel, and
was captained by Big Pat Crawford. The girls for these dance rooms were
imported from Australia and Tasmania. They were lured over by ads.
beautifully alluring, but when they arrived they were confronted with
the real business. Most of them went into it at once, but many refused
to enter either place. Some of Greymouth's noble aristocracy are the
progeny of girls employed at one or other of these dance houses.
There was another free and easy at the corner of Boundary and Gresson
Streets and one at the corner of Johnston and Gresso Streets. The latter
was run by Mr P. Pelling senr. Another noted free and easy was just near
Purcell and Skoglund's at the corner of Johnston St. and Richmond Quay
and was kept by Dan Munro (Peg-leg Munro) from the fact that he had a
wooden leg.
Merchants were D. Alcorn and Co., Bull and Sons., both firms were on
Richmond Quay below Arney Street.
One of the young Bulls was drowned from an old tub of a boat whilst
crossing from Revell's Camp to where the abattoirs now stand.
Further up the Quay was Harry Gieseking (father of mine host Jack), then
came W. G. Gledhill, then W. J. Coates, the latter a few doors above
Johnston Street. He shortly aferwards removed to Werita Street where he
remained for many years. Then came Glenn Bros.; in Albert Street. They
afterwards opened a retail store next to Shedy's pub, and seubsequently
sold out to the late Sam Roulston. Then came old Jamie Taylor's near the
corner of Mawhera Quay and Albert Street. There was no building at that
particular corner for some time afterwards. The first building there was
a pub and was occupied by Bill Spillaine. Later on it became
Hallenstein's drapers. The next merchant firm was Kennedy Bros., in
Tainui Street, with Ralph Debosta opposite. At this time (1867) the
buildings on the East side of Tainnui Street were built on high piles,
as the place was a swamp. The swamp was subsequently filled up. The
whole street was afterwards (in 1872) raised about 3ft. 6in. and
building also on account of floods.
The roadway at the junction of Tainui and Mackay Streets was a regular
lagoon and we youngsters used to sail boats on it. The next merchant was
the late P. M. Griffin. His store was on Mawhera Quay about four doors
from the present Royal Hotel.
Banks were the Union (manager, Mr Buchanan), Bank of New South Wales
(Gilbert King), and Bank of New Zealand (H. S. Haphan). The present site
of the latter was originally "Coutauche's Hotel," the Bank being next door.
SPORT.
The first race meeting was held at the course constructed on the river
bank about 200 yards from the lagoon mouth. The committee applied for
and obtained from the Government the present site, the first meeting
being held there in 1869, and at which yours truly was present. The
grandstand was then on the bank of the creek above the bridge. There was
no road from town, only a track. Everything was taken up the river to
the course by boats and then along the creek to the bank of the
grandstand. Most people walked by the track, but many went in the boats
and it is a wonder none was ever drowned; several had miraculous
escapes. Crossing the river at the mouth of the creek was infinitely
more dangerous than now.
For three or four years after the new course was opened one could only
see about half the race, one half of the race track being obscured by
bush, and the southern end of the course in flood, the track was under
water or so boggy as to render the racing exceedingly dangerous. In fact
the races had to be postponed more than once on this account.
Boat racing was the great New Year's Day event, but was never very
satisfactory on account of the turnings. The river in those days was,
particularly at high tide, a splendid broad sheet, not the shallow bit
of a creek as at present. The finest rower over on the river was a 6ft
4in. speciman, named George Jackson. He was a boatman, in fact the whole
family followed the occupation. They were all giants, girls included.
George was an ideal rower and had he been differently constituted would
no doubt have been a world's champion. Mr G. Allport, of the Marine
Department and Mr A. F. Foot (father of Fred Foot, of Wairoa,
solicitor), old Dick Collins (signalman) and Jamie Stewart (the milkman)
were prominent rowers in the 'sixties, and the present Chief Engineer
Mr. R. Holmes, did a great deal of rowing and sailing on the river and
lagoon.
Sailing races did not take place until about 1872, and were first
introduced by the late Dr. Morice. He was an enthusiast on sailing, had
two yachts and other boats, and was on the river every spare half hour.
The chief builder of boats was old Wilhelm Wilson, of Albert Street, and
there is no mistake the old fellow understood the art of constructing
sailing vessels.
Regarding athletic sports, these were nearly always held in the camp
reserve. The chief runners were the Twohills, Dave and Nod, (Pat floated
along about 1871), Tod Webber, Bob King, Bob Howe, Jamie Ranger (Jamie
the Ranger), Jamie Rankin, the Heaphys, (Joe, Dick and Bill), Dan Buggy
and others, the names of whom I have forgotten.
<----< To be Continued. <----
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Genealogy: Tracing yourself back to better people
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