[amayausers.com] Re: Thread Breaks/Pull on Needle 6

  • From: theboards@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 14:30:18 UT

This message was posted by Rod or Sharon on AmayaUsers.com. PLEASE DO NOT REPLY 
VIA EMAIL. Instead, respond to the thread on the WEBSITE by clicking here: 
http://www.amayausers.com/boards/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?/topic/1/1189.html#000004

When a problem is associated with one particular needle there are specific 
things to look for.

1. Physically remove the red pinch roller and the inner threadfeed roller. Are 
they lubricated well?

2. Visually, with a flashlite, check down inside the threadfeed roller pocket 
for any thread that may be wrapped around the gears and shaft in that area. Any 
excess drag or binding of the rollers will affect the proper amount of thread 
being fed which in turn will result in fraying and/or breakage.

3. It may possibly be the thread. Does it happen regardless of the cone of 
thread that is used on the #6 needle? Have you changed to a different cone of 
thread? A case in point....while I was working on a machine, the operater was 
sewing on a machine next to me. Continuous thread breaks finally led me to ask 
what was going on. He had just changed to a new cone of black thread. I asked 
if he had had any issues prior to changing thread cones, he said no. I had him 
change to another new black cone of thread, same problem....I had him put the 
original black cone back on that still had some thread left on it....problem 
immediately went away. Tried a third new cone of thread and problem had 
disapeared. Bad lot of thread was the issue in his case....sometimes stripping 
off 20+ yards of thread off of a new cone will get you down to thread that may 
not have been exposed to ultra violet. We have no way of knowing how old the 
threads are that we purchase from our vendors. Could be fresh
 , could be years old...? 

4. Have you checked the hook timing closely. Hook timing is checked and 
adjusted on the "closet" needle. Logically, if there is a closet needle, then 
there is also a fartherest needle. The closest and fartherest needle 
designations are located and written on the lower right side of the base 
casting under the machine table top. Each machine is different. If the 
needleguard gap is excessive on the closet needle then it will be "extremely" 
excessive on the fartherest needle. This would lead to problems for the rotary 
hook to pick up the top and/or bobbin thread properly, resulting in thread 
breaks and/or fraying. The hook timing may be good as far as being advanced or 
retarded, but if the needleguard gap isn't also set properly, well nuff 
said....Also, each needle may have it's own gap but is strickly dependent of 
the closet needle having the needleguard gap set as close as possible to the 
back side of the needle during the hook timing procedure.

5. Design issues....does it happen regardless of the design being sewn? Rule of 
thumb....the narrower the column or shorter the stitch that is being sewn, the 
more apt the fartherest needles will miss picking up the top and/or bobbin 
thread and completing a stitch. 

6. Combine all of this with the needle being oriented properly left and right 
which can also be specific to the type and brand of thread being used and the 
speed it is being sew at....well nuff said again... 

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

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