[amayausers.com] Re: Please HELP! Design on cap

  • From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 21:52:43 UT

This message was posted by signman on AmayaUsers.com. PLEASE DO NOT REPLY VIA 
EMAIL. Instead, respond to the thread on the WEBSITE by clicking here: 
http://www.amayausers.com/boards/ultimatebb.php?/topic/2/537.html#000004

We had the same problem until our life saver service tech came up for routine 
warranty checkup. He spotted the problem immediately...
the hat 'brim' was hitting on the back of the needle casing (I use the CCF 
hoops) and so I ordered the adaptor to hold the brim back. Everytime the hoop 
would move forward, that brim would hit and you could see it pull the face 
about 1/4" and...snap,
another needle shot.
With the CCF, most images can not be any larger than 2" high (we have older Big 
Red also, not the XT).
And I use a very still 4" roll of backing-set sewout to go from bottom (brim) 
UP, and center 'out' for most lettering and designs. This keeps the face from 
puckering up like it would if you went from top down-and starting in the center 
first ties the face to the backing.
When you hoop the hat, I think it was Aaron told me a year ago to bend the crim 
backwards first on the 'precurved' hats-then when you hoop it, firmly push the 
flat of your hand to squash the face right down while you tighten the clasp.
I also 'steam' the faces on the 6 panel hats that have the extra binding sewn 
inside to cover that center seam. We use a handheld Oreck steamer-no 
covering-right on the center steam Unless you have bad water or use juice-steam 
won't discolor the hat. It does make it a little more pliable and easier to sew.
Remember-a design that sews perfectly on a shirt will not work on a hat..you 
have to remove some density, play with the fills, etc. to get it right.
I hate hats...takes too long to do them and make any money...but we do get 
orders too small to send out.

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