Thanks Steve. I’ve got that Three-In-One gadget as well, and so far have only
used it once when changing the strings on the acoustic. It does trim them
pretty well, but I still find there is a nasty pointy bit that perhaps if some
unsuspecting person didn’t know and went poking around in the machine head,
they might find their fingers getting stabbed!
Andy Collins
Sent from my iPhone
On 28 Oct 2020, at 11:29 am, dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Hi Andy,
Good choices for the strings. I know the Elixir's are very very good. I've
always cut the strings most of the way first and left a reasonable amount on
the outside so I've got enough to cut when they're all tuned up. I use a
little guitar tool that has a number of bits to it one of which is a pair of
small pliers with a wire cutter at the top which gives a lovely neat and
clean cut right up at the peg so there is no stray wires.
Best wishes mate and enjoy the guitars!
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: vibe-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <vibe-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Andy
C
Sent: 27 October 2020 22:10
To: vibe@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [vibe] Re: Recording of fret buzz
Again thanks Steve, all good stuff. That was the first time I had shortened a
string before fitting it, thinking it might be easier to wind round the peg
without all the XS. In fact I learned today that fender in one of their info
guides, suggests cutting the strings to size before fitting them, and
actually says what lengths to cut each string to. I think part of this is to
do with achieving a nice clean finish with no untidy sharp bits poking out of
the tuners.
I know when I fit replacement strings, I can never quite achieve such a neat
finish, always got some spiky bits poking out! How about you?
Well, I’ve ordered some Ernie Ball super slinkys for my Tele, and some Elixir
Nano web phosphorus-bronze 11s for my Martin.
Andy Collins
Sent from my iPhone
On 27 Oct 2020, at 12:36 am, dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Hi Andy,
I think, to be honest, if the unique string is of a similar type and
thickness, so long as it sounds ok when you play it then, there's no
problem. You may well find though, depending on the qualities of the main
set and the individual one, they may not last in the same way. Also, just a
little hint, when you are fitting the strings, don't cut off anything until
you have them in situ, all tuned up and ready to go.
As for string recommendations, I've always favoured Elixir strings. The
phosperous ones are exceptionally good on acoustics. Depending on how you
play, and the type of tone you like, this will dictate the thickness you put
on. A set of 12's will give you a much more resonant and deeper sound
whereas, a set of 10's or even 9's will give you a far thinner sound but
will give you the ability to bend strings and do other little tricks if this
is something you do. I use 12's on my Faith Eclipse Saturn because I do
like that thick, deep and resonant sound. I've always used the ball end
strings because this is what my guitars have always used. My new Les Paul I
think is a through body system. I'm not sure as I've only had it a few
months now and not yet changed the strings. I did once though have an
Explorer that had a double locking trem system and that was strung in
reverse so that the ball end was fed through from the neck down the body and
into the locking trem system. You definitely had to cut these strings to
length and tighten up on the tuners. Once they were in tune, there was a
lock at the neck that you locked. The theory was that it would never lose
tune. That was the theory anyway but, in reality, you used fine tuners on
the bridge and you were up the proverbial river if it swayed out of range.
It was a floating trem so quite susceptible to tuning problems. Once you
had it set, it was in fact pretty good!
Hope that all helps.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: vibe-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <vibe-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf
Of Andy C
Sent: 26 October 2020 23:21
To: vibe@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [vibe] Re: Recording of fret buzz
Thanks Steve I started doing this, when I came to the third string I decided
to shorten it before I started to fit it, but unfortunately I cut off too
much from the end and now it’s barely long enough so looks like I’ll have to
buy another set after all. I’m going to do that anyway but out of interest,
how much of a difference does it make to have five strings of one make and
a solitary one of another, especially if they are all nickel coated?
Now to strings and recommendations: I’m looking at choosing the Ernie Ball
super slinky‘s, because these seem to get top reviews everywhere and are
considered to be number one worldwide.
but I have a question, I used to think all electric guitar strings had a
ball at the Bridge end, but reading reviews of different manufacturers, I
see some have what is referred to as a tube end, and I don’t know if my
guitar would take the latter. My strings fit through the body of my telly,
which is to say there are six holes on the back of the guitar corresponding
to the saddles on the front, so strings with a ball at the end just push
through and are held in place, but if I finished up with the alternative
tube ends, does anyone know if they would still fit?
Andy Collins
Sent from my iPhone
On 26 Oct 2020, at 6:14 pm, dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Hi Andy,
To be honest, I don't think there is a proper prescribed way to do it. My
own method seems to work for me ok. I slot the string into the slot
leaving only a little slack on the neck side to provide some string to
tighten up on. For the bottom 4 strings, E A D and G, I bend the string
back on itself and then wind in the slack that I previously left. On the
top B and E strings, sometimes I will loop the string back on itself and
slot it back into the slot providing a full slotted loop.
Hope that helps.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: vibe-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <vibe-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf
Of Andy C
Sent: 26 October 2020 17:07
To: vibe@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [vibe] Re: Recording of fret buzz
Thanks Steve. So once I’ve put the string in the slot, do I then bend it
down and wrap it round underneath itself against the bottom of the post
where it meets the machine head? Is there actually a right or wrong way to
do it anyway? Does it matter how I do it as long as I get it to tune up and
play?
Andy Collins
Sent from my iPhone
On 26 Oct 2020, at 2:16 pm, dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Hi Andy,
Really glad to see we've got the string sorted now. From the recording,
it did sound like it hadn't anything to do with action or anything like
that. A bit of a kink would certainly cause a few problems. As for the
tuning mechanism, slot the string into the slot and then tune it. I have
the very same type on my Schecter Bass.
Best wishes
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: vibe-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <vibe-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> On
Behalf Of Andy C
Sent: 26 October 2020 13:58
To: vibe@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [vibe] Re: Recording of fret buzz
Thanks Steve for the thoughts. What I did find when I slackened off the
string was a slight kink on the fret side of the string, which wasn’t
noticeable when the string was taught. I’ve now replaced that string and
it seems to have resolve the problem, who rah! However I now have a
question about fitting new strings.
because I’ve not seen tuning pegs quite like this before, I need some
guidance to fit the strings.
Instead of having a whole through the centre of the tuning peg through
which to feed the string, these tuning pegs are slotted on the top, and so
I don’t know whether to wind the string round the peg, or to sit it in the
slot and then wind it round the peg additionally. So I’d like some help
please, because I’ve stopped for now having fitted the bottom E string,
which whilst staying in tune, I’m not sure if i’ve fitted it correctly to
the tuning peg, and I don’t want to create issues from putting pressure on
the instrument from taught strings wrongly fitted.
Andy Collins
Sent from my iPhone
On 26 Oct 2020, at 12:03 pm, dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
I'd say, any wearing of a string could lead to potential issues such as
fret buzzing but, from your recording, it does sound potentially more
than that. Are you anywhere near a shop that you can take it to?
If it is happening only on one string, perhaps you could try changing it.
I mean, it's only a string so you won't have spent much on it. You
never know, it might just sort it. Can you feel any threading or
abnormalities on the string at that position? Is there maybe a piece of
crud that's got stuck to the underside of the string? I'm sort of
clutching at straws a little here Andy.
Best wishes
Steve
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: vibe-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <vibe-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> On
Behalf Of Andy C
Sent: 26 October 2020 11:46
To: vibe@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [vibe] Re: Recording of fret buzz
Thanks for this article very interesting. My acoustic is actually a
Martin, but this issue anyway is on my fender Squier telly electric. I
know some may frown at Squier, but nonetheless for me it plays
beautifully, and it was one of The more expensive models from Squier.
I’ve had The guitar for 12 months, and this problem just started
happening this week. From reading the article, I wonder if it is as
simple as fitting a new string; can a worn string create fret buzz on a
single fret I wonder?
Andy Collins
Sent from my iPhone
On 26 Oct 2020, at 10:13 am, dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Hi Andy,
I think the recording was an excellent idea. I think it helps to
explain the issue a lot better. To me, it sounds like there is an issue
with the intonation. This basically is the relationship between the
strings and the physical body of the guitar in terms of its tuning.
There is quite a lot of complexity to it so, I've pasted below an
article that explains it in a lot more detail than I can smiles. It
also tells you how you can adjust it but, I'd fully recommend that you
get a technician to do it unless you are very familiar with setting up a
guitar. From some dark and distant past somewhere, I seem to recall you
have a Tailor and you certainly do not want to damage that!
What is intonation? With musical instruments, intonation refers to pitch
accuracy—the extent to which the notes formed are in tune, versus being
flat or sharp. When a player tunes a guitar using an electronic guitar
tuner, they do so by plucking the open (unfretted) strings. However,
when a string is fretted, the tension on the string increases, which
bends the pitch of the note slightly upward. The effect is subtle, but
this change can impact the intonation, in some cases causing “sour”
notes and dissonant chords if the guitar’s intonation is not set
properly. Often intonation issues are associated with playing higher up
the fretboard (closer to the guitar body). Something else to keep in
mind is that the closer a string is to the frets, the less it needs to
stretch since it doesn’t have as far to go. This means that low action
tends to produce more accurate intonation. Intonation issues can be
subtle or dramatic depending on a guitar’s setup. For guitarists who
record or play music live, intonation problems can ruin a recording
session or a live performance. How is acoustic guitar intonation
adjusted? While adjusting the acoustic guitar intonation is conceptually
the same as an electric guitar, due to certain differences in
construction (e.g., different types of saddles) the processes vary in
some respects. Most acoustic players take their guitars to a qualified
guitar technician when they need their intonation adjusted. Typically,
proper acoustic guitar intonation begins with a full setup, along with a
fresh set of strings. With Taylor guitars, provided there is no fret
wear, the setup often solves serious acoustic guitar intonation
problems. However, many high-level players still appreciate a luthier’s
specific attention to intonation, because it will address each player’s
style and technique on that particular instrument. The technician will
check the guitar’s action (the distance between the strings and the
fretboard), as well as the instrument’s neck relief. This refers to the
slight bowing intentionally created in the neck to set the action. It
can be controlled by tightening or loosening the truss rod, which is
located in the neck. Essentially, the technician is trying to get
everything right before actually adjusting the acoustic guitar’s
intonation. This removes the extra variables and makes it easier to dial
in the intonation. From there, they’ll usually address the nut and
saddle, where the strings stretch over a piece of bone, plastic or other
synthetic material. Most saddles are placed at a slight angle to the
bridge, which adds length to the lower strings to adjust for differences
in string thickness. Likewise, many saddles are made with compensation
points for some or all of the strings, which helps fine-tune those
points even more. When addressing a player’s particular style and
technique, a skilled guitar technician can cut more accurate notches
into the saddle, effectively adjusting the intonation of each string by
changing the string’s distance from the nut. The technician will check
the pitch of each string at the 12th fret to ensure that it’s in tune
with the pitch of the open string. Checking the nut, where the strings
rest at the peghead before winding around the tuning machines, is
critical. String slots that are cut flat, high-centered, or left too
high, along with improper placement of the nut, will prevent a guitar
from achieving good intonation. At Taylor, we have the added benefit of
our proprietary neck design, which ensures that every guitar is built
with proper action and accurate nut and saddle location. The guitar neck
design also makes it easy to adjust the neck angle and allows for
setup-related intonation fixes without changing the position of the nut
or the saddle. In the end, intonation on a tempered scale instrument can
never be perfect. And keep in mind that another factor that can affect
acoustic guitar intonation is a person’s playing technique. For example,
players with a heavy fretting hand or a beginner might press down harder
than necessary on the strings, resulting in notes going sharp. In other
words, in a certain player’s hands, even a properly set-up guitar can
sound like it’s out of tune. Since there are so many variables, we
recommend that players change their strings before consulting a service
technician to adjust their intonation, since guitar strings naturally
lose some elasticity with time and wear. Otherwise, a technician can
find the sweet spot on your guitar that provides the best possible
intonation all the way up and down the neck.
-----Original Message-----
From: vibe-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <vibe-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> On
Behalf Of Andy C
Sent: 25 October 2020 23:15
To: vibe@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [vibe] Recording of fret buzz
Dave – I can’t feel any damage to the fret, it doesn’t feel worn, and
the fret wire doesn’t feel differently to any of the others.
Chris, thanks for suggesting that I record the sound, I hope you can
hear it well enough from the attachment.
Andy Collins
