[TechAssist] Re: MAG: 25X6 chassis Quick Question?

  • From: "Bill McFarland" <billmcfarland@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <techassist@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 11:12:06 -0700

Gee Dennis,

All I wanted to know was if anyone had seen a bunch of these!

I really don't need to know the more "advanced" uses of a "Rubber" Socket!

(please note sarcasm....just a small attempt at humor)

Good luck, God Bless
Bill McFarland
DMC Electronics
Salt Lake City, Utah

----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Viereck <wa6ati@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <techassist@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 10:48 AM
Subject: [TechAssist] Re: MAG: 25X6 chassis Quick Question?


>
> The entire socket is encased in rubber and is considered weather proof
when the
> bulb is in place. These can be picked up in hardware stores anywhere. I
like
> these better than the ceramic sockets because the rubber ones don't break
when
> dropped.
>
> I could think of something more risqué if it weren't so early in the
morning and
> I already had my first cup of coffee.
>
> Dennis Viereck
>
> al wrote:
>
> > Why do we need a rubber socket?
> > Sorry guys, its Sunday!  al
> >
> > alleathe@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Al Leatherman
> > Mine Hill, NJ 07803
> > 973-361-5796
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dennis Viereck" <wa6ati@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <techassist@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 11:43 AM
> > Subject: [TechAssist] Re: MAG: 25X6 chassis Quick Question?
> >
> > >
> > > On a Linear supply that light bulb arrangement will work great. On a
SMPS
> > I still
> > > like to put the bulb in series with the 130vdc B+ to the flyback. With
> > this 25X6
> > > chassis since it is a linear supply putting the bulb in series with
the AC
> > line
> > > fuse works great as a dynamic current limiter.
> > >
> > > And you know you don't have to use a socket on a board, You can use a
all
> > rubber
> > > socket with two pigtail wires coming out of it. Just use clip leads to
> > attach it
> > > to the open fuse terminals.
> > >
> > > Dennis Viereck
> > >
> > > Edward Gaidies wrote:
> > >
> > > > Perry;
> > > > You don't need to solder a light bulb in. You make up a little jig,
with
> > the
> > > > light bulb in series with an AC receptacle, on a little sheet of
> > plywood.
> > > > Then plug the TV under test directly into the AC receptacle.
> > > >
> > > > -Ed-
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Friends:
> > > > >
> > > > > We used to use the light bulb test on Motorola base stations to
find
> > shorts
> > > > > after lightning strikes. If the bulb had a bright glow, you had
shorts
> > to
> > > > > find. We just simply repaired circuits until the bulb went dim.
But
> > those
> > > > > had a round screw in fuse the same size as a light bulb. We have
found
> > on
> > > > > most TV's, if you run your powerite down to around 80 volts, you
may
> > not
> > > > > blow any parts if the flyback is bad, however, the flyback will
get
> > warm, or
> > > > > in some cases might even smoke a little. The best way though is to
use
> > a
> > > > > Sencore VG92, and do a load test, with everything in circuit. It
will
> > check
> > > > > your timing and loads, you will know in less than five minutes if
your
> > > > > flyback is bad. That is just what works for us. It is hard to get
my
> > young
> > > > > techs to solder a light bulb socket into a little TV chassis. They
try
> > to
> > > > > come up with quicker test. My 2 cents.
> > > > >
> > > > > Perry Bower
> > > > > Electric Medic
> > > > > "It's Cheaper to Keep Her"
> > > > > 3850 Washington Road  Suite 5b
> > > > > Martinez, Georgia 30907
> > > > > Phone: 706-8MEDIC4  (863-3424)
> > > > > Phone: 706-863-3474
> > > > > Fax: 706-863-2316
> > > > > Website: www.electricmedic.com
> > > > > mailto:info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > > > "WE REPAIR WITH CARE"
> > > > > More Info:
> > www.augusta-ga.bbb.org/report.html?compid=6001278&national=y
> > > > >
> > > > > Factory Trained Authorized Service Center For:  Fisher, GE,
KEC/KTV,
> > Konka,
> > > > > Mitsubishi, Panasonic, Philips Magnavox, Pioneer, ProSCAN, RCA,
> > Samsung,
> > > > > Sanyo, Sharp, SONY, Technics, Zenith
> > > > >
> > > > > Provide Extended care for: AON, Circuit City, GE Contracts, Glass
> > Agency,
> > > > > Philips Contracts, NEW, Rex
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: techassist-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > > > [mailto:techassist-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Dennis
Viereck
> > > > > Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 2:22 AM
> > > > > To: techassist@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > > > Subject: [TechAssist] Re: MAG: 25X6 chassis Quick Question?
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > No need to blow up any parts. Use a 40 watt light bulb in series
with
> > the B+
> > > > > to
> > > > > the flyback. Connect your oscilloscope to the collector of the
> > horizontal
> > > > > output
> > > > > transistor. Set the scope to resolve a 600 volt PP signal at 10
micro
> > > > > seconds
> > > > > per division. Power up the set an look for a clean undistorted
pulse
> > with a
> > > > > duty
> > > > > cycle of 11.7 microseconds "OFF" time and a "ON" time of 51.7
> > microseconds.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any extra ringing or distortion means you have a heavy load on the
> > secondary
> > > > > or
> > > > > an internal shorted winding.
> > > > >
> > > > > The light bulb saves components, and buys time to measure the
"Must
> > Haves"
> > > > > in
> > > > > that circuit. Sometimes only 2 or 3 seconds is necessary to make
this
> > > > > measurement.  Most of the time after a short test like this and it
is
> > a
> > > > > flyback,
> > > > > one can feel the heat generated in the flyback by the bad winding
or
> > diode
> > > > > stack.
> > > > >
> > > > > Dennis Viereck
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill McFarland wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >> Hey no problem,
> > > > >>
> > > > >> The old "N" chassis used to do this all the time (The flyback was
> > almost
> > > > >> always bad)
> > > > >>
> > > > >> I was just wondering if anyone could say "Yea those crap the bed
all
> > the
> > > > >> time!" It would give me a little more to go on when on Monday I
use
> > my
> > > > >> "Stone-aged" BK 1077 to ring it. (Its only about 75%
effective...And
> > that
> > > > >> only if the flyback is completely out of the unit)
> > > > >>
> > > > >> I hate blowing parts up!
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Funny thing is now that "I" am the one paying for the parts. I
sure
> > am a
> > > > > lot
> > > > >> more careful about things like this. When I worked for someone
else
> > it was
> > > > >> faster to just change the HOT and Reg. and see if it blows the
HOT
> > back
> > > > > up!
> > > > >> (I was young...What can I say)
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Good luck, God Bless
> > > > >> Bill McFarland
> > > > >> DMC Electronics
> > > > >> Salt Lake City, Utah
> > > > >>
> > > > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > > > >> From: Dennis Viereck <wa6ati@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > >> To: <techassist@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > >> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 8:37 PM
> > > > >> Subject: [TechAssist] Re: MAG: 25X6 chassis Quick Question?
> > > > >>
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Opps... I can't read.... Never mind. You might be right......
> > > > >>> Dennis Viereck
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Dennis Viereck wrote:
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>>> Depending on how the STR is shorted, I would the think the set
> > would
> > > > >> still
> > > > >>>> run. Assuming the AC line voltage is reduced enough to achieve
> > 130VDC
> > > > > at
> > > > >> the
> > > > >>>> output of the regulator. This is a simple linear regulator and
> > easily
> > > > >>>> bypassed.
> > > > >>>>
> > > > >>>> A "Shorted" STR certainly would not point me in he direction of
the
> > > > >> flyback.
> > > > >>>> Maybe if you had a shorted horizontal output transistor, I
might
> > feel
> > > > >>>> inclined to agree with you. But certainly not on 1 shorted part
and
> > > > >>>> intestinal feelings......
> > > > >>>>
> > > > >>>> Dennis Viereck
> > > > >>>>
> > > > >>>> Bill McFarland wrote:
> > > > >>>>
> > > > >>>>> Hello all,
> > > > >>>>>
> > > > >>>>> I am working on a 25X6 Maggot-box.
> > > > >>>>>
> > > > >>>>> Shorted HOT, Bad STR30130 Regulator.
> > > > >>>>>
> > > > >>>>> My gut tells me the flyback is probably bad as well.
> > > > >>>>>
> > > > >>>>> Can anyone tell me if the Flyback is a common failure item in
this
> > > > >> unit?
> > > > >>>>>
> > > > >>>>> Good luck, God Bless
> > > > >>>>> Bill McFarland
> > > > >>>>> DMC Electronics
> > > > >>>>> Salt Lake City, Utah
> > > > >>>>>
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> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > From: Ed Gaidies
> > > > teltek@xxxxxxxxxxx
> > > > Tel-Tek Electronics
> > > >
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