Original parts can certainly be pricey but I try to stay that way. Not to be a stock nazi at all, but rather if I have problems down the road I can read a manual to figure things out. I am not an engineer or a mechanic, so I figure those Germans must have known what they are doing if these old vehicles are still on the road. If my bus becomes too much of my own creation I will get too far from intended performance and functionality. So I try to stay original. ----- Original Message ---- From: Will <evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 12:20:20 PM Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc DIV {margin:0px;}Since VW changed things up it makes it costly to stay original doesn't it? Even rabbit resevoirs are crazy priced because the parts vendors know they can be used in a conversion for an early bus. From: ATX BUS <atx_bus@xxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 1:11 PM To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc I was simply making the point that early bus part aren't always cheaper than those on a bay. Certainly not as easily found. In my case I have an early 67 that has a 66 mc, so no need for a conversion. One of those quirky things about changing from one year to the next. ----- Original Message ---- From: Will <evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 11:19:34 AM Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc DIV {margin:0px;}Upgrade to the late BAY MC with the rabbit resevoir and conversion kit from wolfgang. Also, I see a market. What would you pay for an updated MC kit ? From: ATX BUS <atx_bus@xxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 11:41 AM To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc I don't know. Try finding and buying parts for a 67 one year only. Have you priced a mc for a 67 bus? http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211611011Q ----- Original Message ---- From: Brian Denning <i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 10:06:04 AM Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc hmmessage P { margin:0px;padding:0px;} body.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma;} most early bus and beetle guys cringe when i tell them how much some things cost on a bay. i.e. the mastercylinder. another one is type IV pistons and cylinders...ouch. oh, and beams. Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 07:44:59 -0700 From: bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Brian: Just checked with Oak Hill Auto in Longview and they have a new German ATE for $145. There phone # is 903-297-3496 if you want to give them a call. They can UPS it to you, but by the time you paid shipping the one at Rogers would probably be cheaper. Brian Denning <i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P {padding:0px;} ExternalClass EC_body.hmmessage {font-size:10pt;font-family:Tahoma;} every FLAPS store go to says they can't get one for my bus. A new one cost $200 at bus-boyscom and about 150 at roy rogers. guess i'll be going to roy rogers in the next month to get a new one. From: sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 07:04:37 -0500 ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P {padding-right:0px;padding-left:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-top:0px;} ExternalClass EC_BODY.hmmessage {font-size:10pt;font-family:Tahoma;} You don't have any time.Fix your brakes NOW! If you don't the fire will have been minor.If you don't have brake assist the mc should be around 40 bucks at your FLAPS.I just bought one for a bug for 30 bucks. ----- Original Message ----- From: Brian Denning To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 6:35 AM Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc anybod got a good new mc they'd sell me for cheap?? apparently mine is bad i have driven the bus like this since august...how long do i have? Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 19:46:08 -0700 From: bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx It sounds to me like you have a leak in the MC. Fluid going past the piston (which it is not supposed to do) which means a new master cylinder. Brian Denning <i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P {padding:0px;} ExternalClass EC_body.hmmessage {font-size:10pt;font-family:Tahoma;} ok, the mastercylinder has 3 lines coming out of it one that goes to the rear one for the left front and one for the right front. at the mastercylinder i bled all air out of it...there was lots in the line that went to the rear of the bus and some that went to the driverside front. so i bled all the air out at the MC then i went to the right rear. by i, i mean a friend of mine. we did the ol' tube in a bottle of fluid trick. got some small bubbles out of the right rear, next we went to the left rear, man oh man there were some bubbles after we pumped it two or three times. then we went to the right front, it took forever to get to fluid (keep in mind i have already bled everything 4 times before this point) then we went to the driverside front. got air. pedal then worked but not impressive. so we decided to pressure bleed the system at this point pump, pump pump HOLD!!! right rear spit out air twice then solid fluid shot out like a water cannon. pump pump pump HOLD!!! left rear did the same. moved to the right front it took 5 tries to get the final air out of it. then we moved to the right side. fluid came out like an old man trying to pee, slow and it dribbled for a bit. we did that for a bit and then all of the sudden the fluid shot out so strong it hit the other side. tightened it up the brakes are great, they don't give way but there is still a slight problem, if i come on strong at first they work great. i even tested them and managed to get all four wheels to lock up, if i eas on them the pedal goes down about half way till it works, and if i just gently push it in it still goes to the floor. what do ya'll think? mastercylinder needs replaced or still some air hidden somewhere? i am buying the appropriate tool from harbor freight this weekend and will try it again but i am leaning towards a mastercylinder. like a friend once told me "rebuilds only last so long" > From: sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx > To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc > Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 17:49:27 -0500 > > You also can use a hand vac pump and suck the fluid thru the system so > pressure does not have to be applied to to the master cyl. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Gerald V. Livingston II" <gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 4:31 PM > Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc > > > > I've used it. It only needs to be at about 10 PSI. Works GREAT. Just have > > to make sure the reservoir stays full and pump it back up to 10PSI every > > once in a while. Because it's forcing the fluid into the M/C at the normal > > inlet locations it helps "grab" the air bubbles with the moving fluid and > > pulls them out into the lines. > > > > Bleed the whole system in under 30 minutes with no pedal pumper helping > > you and complaining he whole time. ;-) > > > > G2 > > > > Brian Denning wrote: > >> i'm afraid it would blow the fill line off the resevoir. > >> > >> > Date [The entire original message is not included] ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. 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