[tcb] Re: What is Wrong With My Bus?
- From: "Fred McDonald" <texasbluebus@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 19:38:07 -0600
So to convert to the euro version I’d have to change the tail lights also?
I’m convinced the problem I’m experiencing is with the flasher unit.
The carburetor is no more than a year old, I purchased it from Jack at Black
Gold.
If I remember correctly it is the Brazilian replacement for a stock carb.
I wish I could have kept my original German carb., but it was leaking so badly
it was beyond rebuilding.
My biggest complaint with this carburetor is that it floods to easily.
From: Shakey Spudman
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2011 5:46 PM
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [tcb] Re: What is Wrong With My Bus?
Fred, a little FYI. "Is there a modern replacement for this genus German
design!". Having been down this road before the 67 bus issue you speak of is
not the fault of the Germans. It was a U.S. ONLY requirement that the bulb for
the stop and turn light be the same in 1967. Hence when you check the wiring
diagram there are two. One for US models and one for the rest of the world.
The latter has the simpler two bulb design with the red/amber lens commonly but
incorrectly referred to as the euro lens. Those (non US) buses had no nine pin
relay and the turn signal lever assembly was different and simpler and of
course much more reliable. You can change everything over to the "euro"
version, which I have done in the past or fix what you've got. Often the
problem lies in the turn signal lever. Sometimes the 9 pin relay Sometimes
both. That's why I switched. Both items are repoped now. Quality??? BTW in my
opinion you still need a carb. Be careful and do your homework on a replacement
carb. Just because it fits, new and shiny doesnt mean it is the one you need.
My one cent.
On Sun, Jan 16, 2011 at 3:28 PM, Fred McDonald <texasbluebus@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Ok here’s the latest,
Tried to start the bus this morning (it’s a little cold outside) bus will not
start.
Checked the points, gap is a little tight but there is a gap, removed points,
they’re a little burned but not badly, the plastic piece that rests against the
cam is worn.
Replaced points with new, ( I know I should have done this when I changed
rotor & cap)
Bus starts, I let it warm up and drive to store about two miles away. Two
stop signs on the way and no problems.
Start the bus up and go home, same two stop signs and a few speed bumps, no
problems.
I will have to venture away from home a little further before I’m comfortable
but the problem seems to be fixed.
I points over carburetor because like Dennis said “points are easier than
carb” also I didn’t seem to have any problems flooding the engine when the
motor wouldn’t start.
I have not replaced the condenser yet, It’s a real pain to change, it’s
difficult to get to the screw and from experience it’s failure rate is very
low.
Dennis goes to the head of the class!
On another subject,
1966 & 1/2 through 1967 the bus is 12 volt. The brake light, turn signal & 4
way flashers all work on one bulb.
Everything goes through the flasher unit and turn signal control arm.
The Flasher unit was only manufactured for this period, 1966 and earlier 6
volt is different and much simpler and in 1968 a new design was used.
My right brake light isn’t working, the right rear turn signal does work and
when I turn on the 4 way flasher, the right rear light doesn’t work.
There is a coalition between the 4 way flasher and brake light but not the
turn signals.
There are I think 9 wires connected to the flasher unit and the unit grounds
to the body of the bus for a negative ground.
I have been tinkering with the connectors & wires and if I get the right rear
light to flash with the 4 way flashers on, the brake light works.
I’ll put the kick panel back on and recheck the light and it stops working.
(this is driving me nuts)
I have a wiring schematic showing the routing of the wiring & color codes for
each wire but I can’t find and explanation for each connector on the flasher
unit.
A working original flasher unit is a rare item, Is there a modern replacement
for this genus German design!
From: chuck blue
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 7:53 PM
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [tcb] Re: What is Wrong With My Bus?
fuel pump?
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred McDonald
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 7:48 PM
Subject: [tcb] Re: What is Wrong With My Bus?
Points & condenser
From: Denis Dodson
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 7:36 PM
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [tcb] Re: What is Wrong With My Bus?
Are you running points or electronic?
From: tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of Fred McDonald
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 7:34 PM
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [tcb] What is Wrong With My Bus?
For those that don’t know,
I have a 67 Westie with a 1600cc single port motor and an alternator
instead of a generator.
It has been running fine.
I drove to the store about 2 miles away, they didn’t have what I wanted &
started for another store.
About 5 miles later I stopped at a light and the motor died at idle.
Restarted the motor and drove about 100 yards and stopped at another light,
the motor died again, this time the motor started only after a lot of cranking
on the starter.
Drove about 300 yards to the next light and the motor died at idle and
would not start, ran the battery down and tried to jump start but still would
not start.
Had the bus towed home, I hooked up the jumper cables and it started ran
for about five minutes and died and would not start.
Next day, engine is cold and starts up, runs for about 10 minutes and dies
and will not start attached the jumper cables and still will not start.
Engine is flooded, remove spark plugs, wet with fuel and a lot of carbon
build up on plugs 1 & 2, plug 3 has a little build up and 4 is fine but I
replace the plugs.
motor is now cooled off and starts up, runs for about 5 minutes and dies
and will not start.
My brother the mechanic tests the fuel pump, (working) tests the coil and
no spark, suggests that coil is failing after it warms up.
New Coil & battery, motor starts and runs at idle for over 30 minutes, I
turn the motor off and restart the motor several times and no problems I think
it’s fixed but don’t take it for a drive.
Today I’m trying to fix a brake light problem, I start the bus and let it
idle for 15 minutes and over the next hour I start the motor and turn off the
motor several times.
I decide to go to the store, I get a few blocks down the street and come to
a stop and the motor dies, restart the motor and look for a spot to turn
around, come to a stop and the motor dies, start the motor go about 50 yards
come to a stop and the motor dies and will not start and now is flooded. I let
the bus sit for about 10 minutes and it starts, I stay on the throttle and keep
the RPMs up and get home.
Well what do you think?
Is this really weird?
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